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What took me so long?

I have 15,000 kms on my 2007 C50SE. Over most of the summer I knew that something was wrong with the shifter linkage adjustment and someday I would have to take it in. But in the mean time, it was just part of bike's personality. What a mistake! It was getting worse and worse.

On Saturday we rode down to Glacier National Park and just as I was pulling into the US border control portico, it finally became clear, I did not have 1st or 2nd gear anymore. At least not all the time. It was a great ride but tough starting off in 3rd gear, sometimes.

Got back home, found this page, and invested an hour to follow these instructions. What a difference! It was the clutch that needed adjusting, not the shifter! Now I have all five gears and the shifter goes snick, snick, snick through the gears like the thing of beauty it is!

Thanks for this post!

Ian in Lethbridge
 

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Discussion Starter #82
You are welcome

I am humbled by the gratitude expressed here, though I am only sharing what I've learned.

I was inspired to write this tip by experiencing the problem Ian had rather suddenly.

While this isn't one of the simpler maintenance items, it's not that complex. The problems that arise from not doing it can be a nightmare, ruining the clutch plates or even getting you into a crash...especially if you suddenly can't shift while you're in an intersection, etc.

I'm just glad that those who've had the time and bravery to do it have found it to be a miracle that costs you nothing!

Thanks for giving this process a try, I just pulled together information and tried to express it in a way that would work for my fellow riders.

IronMan
 

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Clutch Adjust Advise

Great post, thank you from a new C50T owner. I've saved for future reference. :D
 

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Thanks Ironman from another Canuck. The diagram at the top of the post was printed out and saved for future reference.

 

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I read your post an thought I would give it a try since I do most repairs my self. I have 31k on my 07 c50 with no problems including my clutch. I took my time and 25 min. later I was done. I can't really say I notice much difference other than I have alot more adjustment room at the clutch lever!!

Great post!!!
 

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fball1208 said:
Can someone repost the pics all i see is a broken page icon.

Thanks :?
Ironman, I'm afraid, is having some health problems. I'm waiting to hear back from him. I'll try to mention this to see what happened to the pics, or if there's anything I can do to get them back up for him.
 

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I did this and was not real happy with the result. The friction point was way at the end of the clutch lever (3/4 out). I re-did it and at the bottom adjustment I went almost 1 full turn in after I felt resistance. This made the friction point about a little less than half way and no other issues (yet.)
 

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Great Post Ironman.
Been thinking I needed to adjust the clutch ever since I got my Bully. Tried the adjuster at the brake lever once but didn't get the disired results. Been raining a lot here (rain the last 9 days) and was cool today so I adjusted my clutch and moved the helmet lock to the license plate.
Walla!! No more jerk when I I start it in gear. Took it for a spin just down our road and back. I like it!!!
 

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Where do you measure the clutch free-play?

It says to measure the clutch free play at the lever as 10-15 mm. From the end of the lever (with the little ball on it?) or from the inside portion, where the cable attaches?
 

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Re: Where do you measure the clutch free-play?

cptcrusty1 said:
It says to measure the clutch free play at the lever as 10-15 mm. From the end of the lever (with the little ball on it?) or from the inside portion, where the cable attaches?
if i recall, i believe that's at the end of the lever. i'll see if i can find the pic or something to verify that.
 

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Re: Where do you measure the clutch free-play?

mightydog said:
cptcrusty1 said:
It says to measure the clutch free play at the lever as 10-15 mm. From the end of the lever (with the little ball on it?) or from the inside portion, where the cable attaches?
if i recall, i believe that's at the end of the lever. i'll see if i can find the pic or something to verify that.
Since my bike has been sitting for a few hours now in the parking garage, I went down to measure.

Basicly, 10-15 mm from the end of the handle where the cable attaches would mean you couldn't squeeze the cluth. The "Ball" end of the handle would almost be touching the handgrip with that much play.

I measured from the "Ball" and found I only had 2 millimeters I opened it to 12.5 and we'll see if that makes a difference on my way home this afternoon.
 

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Re: Where do you measure the clutch free-play?

cptcrusty1 said:
mightydog said:
cptcrusty1 said:
It says to measure the clutch free play at the lever as 10-15 mm. From the end of the lever (with the little ball on it?) or from the inside portion, where the cable attaches?
if i recall, i believe that's at the end of the lever. i'll see if i can find the pic or something to verify that.
Since my bike has been sitting for a few hours now in the parking garage, I went down to measure.

Basicly, 10-15 mm from the end of the handle where the cable attaches would mean you couldn't squeeze the cluth. The "Ball" end of the handle would almost be touching the handgrip with that much play.

I measured from the "Ball" and found I only had 2 millimeters I opened it to 12.5 and we'll see if that makes a difference on my way home this afternoon.
The free play is measured from the end of the lever. There's a pic on p. 7-19 in the OM for this adjustment.

Wow...2mm of free play for your bike...how did your bike feel with that little free play?
 

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When I leave work for the day, I'm usually ON the gas from the get go as I get onto the HOV lane. I've been noticing that when I nail it, if I'm a little to happy on the gas, the clutch starts to slip... I'm wondering if it wasn't totally grabbing when the engine is relatively cold still... It's usually only about 5 minutes from getting on the bike to getting on the HOV lane...
 

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I did this tonight, and cleaned/oiled all shift lever linkages. My bike feels like a completely new bike!! I'm so freaking upset that I didnt do this like a year ago!! I could have had such better riding experiences. Thanks so much!
 

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For clutch lever free play, just use a nickle where the cable connects to the lever....it shouldn't be more than the thickness of a nickle....

Another note: check this out...

I also found something else out about the Complete Clutch Adjustment and shifting problems

Mine was still, at times, hard to down shift.
So, I removed the bolt on the heel/toe shifter and inspected the GMAN Bushing, all clean, reassembled with blu-loctite and tightened down, but this time stopped just before feeling resistance....

My bike shifts better now than the day I bought it......so if anyone is missing a shift, may want to check to see if there's enough slop in the heel/toe shifter...

Here's a tip, replace the nut with a stainless steel nut with the nylon insert and you won't need loc-tite and then can make minor adjustments, test ride, minor adjustment, test ride and really get it nailed down..

Another tip: I measured the gap between the pivot point on my heel/toe shift lever between the black support bracket and it's 15 - 16 thousandths of an inch...Also gently pull back the little rubber boots and lube with Linthium grease, just a little shot from the can is all you need. Mine was never done at the dealer.

dan
 
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