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Wanted to say thanks for the quick tutorial.
Took longer to get that back chrome panel off than to do the entire adjustement. I need a longer 4mm allen wrench.

Mah baby (2004) shifts like new.
I had the same problem too. I used a 4 mm hex (allen) bit with a screw driver handle that could takke bits of diffrent types. It also took me a while to but the chirme panel back. The rubber washers kept falling off.
 

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Thank you ironman for a great and instructive tutorial. I did the asjustment yesterday. I was ina rush to get it done so that I could go and help my won with his car. I mistakenly assumed that one of the two nuts at the lower end of the clutch cable was the adjusting nut. Gears shifted very smoothly for the first half of the ride, but then shifting became "klunky" again. I went through your tutorail again and the tutorial in the VR store library. That's when realised my mistake. I will do it again tomorrow

I have one comment about the suggestion in the section on clutch adjustment in the VR Store library. IT was suggested that instead of measuring the clutch lever travel, one could measure the gap between the the clutch lever and the handle and set it to 4 mm.

I have learnt a lot from this forum. I am a newbie and am not as handy with fixing things as many of you here. But one thing I am good at is thr theory of measurements. There are so many aspects of measurement that one could write a thesis on it. I understand that measuring the travel in clutch lever is difficult due to geometry (shape) of the lever and that mmeasuuring the gap between the lever and the handle is easier to do.
Measuring the latter is not more, maybe even less reliable than measuring clutch lever travel.

If one uses a vernier caliper (with a precision of .01 mm) to measure a distance of 4 mm, the machine error itself is .01/4 while the error in measuring a distance of 12 mm is .o1.12. This means the error in the former technique is 3 times as large as that in the latter. Additonally, there are statiscal errors due to the fact that every time you mmeasure something, you don't always get the same number. You may get 5 different readings for the same distance if you measured 5 times. This error could be a few percent.

My opinion is that measuring clutch travel is more reliable than measuring the gap. For better precision, I would take as many as 5, or maybe even 10 measurements for the same setting and take there average to determine if the setting is within the specified range or not.
 

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hello. newbie here and I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I did these instructions and here is the outcome. I started the bike and it really seemed to be better but then i put into gear again seemed like I was good to go until i released the lever and I didn't move. Not even a little bit. please help. thank you
 

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Welcome to the site!
Need a little bit more info to help. What year is your bike, has it been sitting for a while, what maintenance has been done, has the issue been occuring for long? Any further info can make a big difference. Let us know whats going on, and we'll do our best to help you along!
Mac
 

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I know this is an old thread but I just got my M50 and I notice the clutch lever is near release before engage or disengage. Is this normal? and a loud clunking when shifting down in gear?
 

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Just wanted to say thank you for this excellent tutorial. I have my clutch adjusted exactly the way I like it now (early take up). But not only that have a much better understanding of how all of the three adjustments work together.

In the process I found a few loose bits here and there so it gave me a chance to go over the bike thouroughly.

Thanks again for posting this.
 

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Another "thank you" for this great information.

Once I figured out how to take that center cover off, it was a snap. I still have a little jump in it from a dead stop, but it's a little better. Must be time for an oil change.

Jody
 

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While you are down on the ground adjusting the clutch and all, go ahead and pull out the shifter pedal and grease its shaft a bit. I thought I'd broken the shifter rod spring while I was out once, discovered it was just the shaft sticking and the friction was greater than the little spring was designed to manage. Thing really needs a grease fitting in it.

10mm wrench and a c-ring tool, takes less than 5 minutes.
 

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I did the three step clutch adjustment today and what a difference it made. I'm not sure the dealership in 31,000 miles ever adjusted the clutch because it was so far out. Now its like new, smoooooooth shifts.:wayhappy:

Thanks
 

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Not intentionally meaning to grave dig an old post but I just found this today and want to add my thanks.

I have an 06 Boulevard C50 which I dumped last November. That was late at night so I parked it until the next morning. When I went to leave the next morning it would not pull. It went into gear just fine but acted like the clutch cable was too short.

I finally got someone with a trailer to get it home and put it in the shed until I got time to confront it. I had no idea where to start.

Finally this weekend - the first weekend I've had free in a few months (work has been hectic) I got a chance to take a look at it. I followed instructions on adjusting the clutch I had read elsewhere. It made things worse rather than better. (Did not include the part about 3 turns CCW). I loosened the set screw and cable and got it on the rode. It does good but not great. I plan to use the method described here my first day off work early enough to get to it.

Thanks, again.
 

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YES, please repost the photos. My clutch is ready for its first adjustment.
 

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So my clutch felt weird. I followed these instructions and it feels a lot better.
Here's my issue: my tension spring is almost fully expanded. Even when I released all 3 adjustment points the spring stayed full expanded. In all the documentation, including this rusks PDF, the tension spring is compressed.
What gives?
 

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could be the spring got stretched out of allowance and need a new one.
 

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Possible oddball question...

I have noticed that each gear I shift into going up from first, the less distance I have to pull the clutch lever for the clutch to engage. Would any of the knowledgeable people here have a thought as to how far it should feel for the clutch lever to move for engaging the clutch for going from 4th to 5th gear?

Or am I totally off my rocker and I need a new clutch (plates and springs)? I know I'm not completely imagining this phenomenon (perhaps partially doing so).

To try and explain what I'm talking about, when I'm stopped and release the clutch lever to engage 1st gear I can feel 1st gear start to pull on the bike with what feels like (the following distances examples, have not been measured, so are probably completely inaccurate, I'm only using them to try and express the distances are much different in feel between gears)... 1/2" of lever pull left before removing my fingers completely from the lever. When I am on the road and going from 4th to 5th, I only have to pull the lever about 1/8" before I feel the clutch engage for me to shift up to 5th. Each gear between 1st and 5th, the distance I feel I need to pull the clutch lever shrinks as I climb higher.

I realize some are going to say it doesn't matter, I should always pull the clutch lever fully all the time (and I do, except when I was playing around with this to figure out what what going on). The reason I bring this up is that the other day I noticed my bike was revving higher than normal in 4th and 5th gear, more pronounced in 5th, and then realized two things:

1. My clutch lever wasn't returning completely to it's stop on it's own when I released it. It was stopping with about another 1/8" left to go and I could push it the rest of the way with my knuckles. The movement felt kinda spongy when I'd push the last distance with my fingers, like the cable is binding in the tube. So I'm in the process of adjusting the clutch and lubing the clutch cable.

2. The distance I had to pull the clutch lever in for going from 4th to 5th gear was barely a tap to squeeze the lever to fully engage the clutch.

I'm trying to figure out if the decrease in clutch movement distance between gears is normal or not.
 

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have you tied a full clutch cable adjustment and lube?
 
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