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The DJ Drive mod explained

93K views 98 replies 53 participants last post by  Freedo302  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Below is a cut and paste of an e-mail response I sent on an inquiry concerning "What's a C90 mod"?

I get asked this quite often, so instead of the "do a search" pat answer, I've tried to provide as short a synopsis as I could to what is involved in doing a C90 drive mod to an 800.
DJ Hillis, a VR forum member, noticed that on his daily commute his C50
seemed to simply be working too hard (reving too high) at speeds anything
above 65-70 mph indicated. He went looking for taller gears to raise the
gear ratio and drop the rpm. Long story short, he discoverd that with a few
simple modifications he could adapt a complete rear drive unit from a C90
and achieve the ratio he was looking for. This raises the final gear ratio
by 14%. (or drops rpm by that amount, somthing like that). It allows you to stay in each gear longer and just makes the 800 a
more pleasurable ride. You loose a minor amount of bottom end torque, but
barely noticable. I had it on a '05 C50 and really enjoyed it. The largest
benefit is from hiway riding. Here is what the mod entails.

Rear drive units from C90, VL1500 and VS1400 are all the same drive unit.
The C90 and VL1500 have the same size axle hole which is larger than the C50
axle, therefor you have to come up with a bushing that will adapt a C90 or
VL1500 drive to the C50 axle. That is not an issue with a VS1400 drive, for
some reason the 1400 and 800 share the same size axle.

If you were to remove your rear drive unit, you would notice it is mounted
to the swingarm by three mount studs. The circumfrence of the three studs on
a 90/1500 and 1400 drive is slightly larger than the 800 drive. To account
for this the mount holes on the 800 swingarm need to be enlarged to
accomadate the studs of the new drive. This can be done by drilling the
holes oversize (9/16ths for a 90 or VL1500 drive and 1/2 inch for a 1400
drive). Another method to drilling the holes oversize and removing so much
material is to slot the holes with a file. (search this procedure out on the
VR site).

The next consideration is the drive to wheel hub spacer. The axle spacer
that is on your bike now (I am talking about the one between the drive unit
and the wheel hub) is slightly too long (about 2mm). You can shorten the one
on your bike, but then that makes it unusable if you ever wanted to change
back to you 800 drive (i.e. if you were to sell the bike). You can cut a
spacer from DOM tubing or there are people on the VR who can supply you one
(I'll get to that later).

The other consideration is driveshaft length. Much debate on this topic. DJ
Hillis cuts, sleeves, and welds C90 driveshafts to a length that works. To
my knowledge no one has ever had a problem with a Hillis modified drive.
There is another machinest that I work with in Sturgis SD that takes C50
driveshafts and modifies them for proper length. His process involves some
milling that repositions the shoulder that contacts the u-joint. I've had
both, both work equaly well and are successful

So here is what you need;
A drive unit from a C90, VL1500 or VS1400. For the 90 or 1500 try and get
the driveshaft with it. For a 1400 you would most likly have to get a
modified C50 driveshaft from the guy in Sturgis. You can have the drive
shaft from your C50 modified also.

A bushing to allow the 90 or 1500 drive to accept the 800 axle. Not needed
if using a 1400 drive.

An axle spacer to set the proper space between the drive and wheel hub. I
have made these for people, the machinest in Sturgis (I keep calling him
that 'cause I can't remember his VR name) makes them, and DJ Hillis makes
them.

A driveshaft of correct lenth, be it modified by Hillis or Aric (the guy in
Sturgis).
You need a new circa-clip (snapring) and a driveshaft oil seal.

Now the hard part, finding one. DJ Hillis use to purchase take-off drives
from a guy that got them from a place that converted C90's to trikes. That
supply has dried up and Hilllis no longer has a source, however if you can
locate a drive, you can ship it to him (Hillis), he can convert the whole
thing and send you back a drop in kit short of enlarging the holes on your
swingarm. I'm not sure what the cost is these days. The guy he was getting
them from started producing them himself (VR member Hamlings8) but it seems
as if that supply has dried up also. Send him a pm an inquire about the
availability. I just don't think they are convering many C90's these days,
but if he has one he can supply you a converted drop in kit, with everything
you need, also. Some people have been successful picking them up on e-bay or
scouring salvage yards.

About the only other thing I can think of at the moment is that the new
drive, once installed will not allow you to use your left side swingarm
(sometimes referred to as the "fake swingarm"). If you got a drive modified
by Aric in Sturgis, the housing of the dive is machined on a CNC machine to
allow you to reinstall the swingarm. A Hillis modified drive allows the same
thing but Hillis accomplishes this by doing some grinding, either way they
both work. Some DIY'ers elect to just leave the "fake" swingarm off and a
few others have been able to grind on the swingarm and make it fit without
touching the drive case.

That's it in a nutshell (if not a rather large nut). I think I'll cut and
paste this to the VR forum as a synopsis of what is involved in doing this
mod. I get asked this alot and it would give me a place I could refer
questions to.
Good luck
Viper
I really intend this post to be a simple explaination of what is involved in doing the swap. And selfishly I want to have some place I can go to and cut and paste the next time I'm asked. :D

I do not want this thread to become politicized into "who was first" "who is better" or "who is prettier" or "who screwed who". Feel free to add anything to what I may have missed, but if this thread digresses into a "who" pissing contest, I'll send the whole thing to the trashcan myself.
Viper
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
CycleBiker said:
Some mention of the driveshaft spline length differences might be appropriate.
I intentionaly glossed over it for a very simple reason. Although a case can be made for a minor trim to the u-joint end spline on one of the methods, I can't argue with success. I have not been presented evidence of any failure or problem with either method. Anyone choosing to modify their own driveshaft can choose to make those decisions.
Viper
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
jdog said:
read it all and it sounds like a good mod i agree that the c50 is running to hard at high way speeds but which mod is easier the 1400 or the 1500?
The biggest advantage to the 1400 is that it uses the same size axle as the 800. C90 or 1500 uses a larger O.D. axle, the hole is larger than the 800 axle. Therefor if you use a C90 or 1500, you have to bush the drive to accept the 800 axle, if you use 1400 drive you don't.

The 1400 driveshaft is too short (unlike the 90 or 1500 shaft which is too long). So you would need to obtain a 90 or 1500 shaft and have it shortened, or obtain an 800 shaft and have it modified. Mr. Hillis shortens 90 or 1500 driveshafts by cutting and sleeving them, and that one machinest guy who I can never remember his VR name modifies 800 shafts, but if you need him I have his e-mail address.

Modding either one is not brain surgery, but you do need to know what you are doing. If you obtain a drive, either drive can be sent out for modification by the pros.
Viper
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
skidroe55 said:
rushbass said:
Darn, I thought this was a thread on mods for my bike! :wink:
Me too! Maybe need an edit to the title to The definitive C90 DRIVE mod thread ?????

:wink:
Better? I thought the "Motors, Transmissions & Drives" forum would be the tip off to a C90 mod thread, but hey, I'm all for a little better clarity. :wink:
Viper
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
skidroe55 said:
472viper said:
skidroe55 said:
rushbass said:
Darn, I thought this was a thread on mods for my bike! :wink:
Me too! Maybe need an edit to the title to The definitive C90 DRIVE mod thread ?????

:wink:
Better? I thought the "Motors, Transmissions & Drives" forum would be the tip off to a C90 mod thread, but hey, I'm all for a little better clarity. :wink:
Viper
Sorry Viper--some of us aren't smart enough to look at that. I only look at thread names. I understand where you were headed now that I PULL MY HEAD OUT!!!!!! :oops:

:lol: :lol:
Hey it was a bit presumpsious of me to assume everyone knows what I' talking about when most the time, I don't know what I'm talk'n about. :lol:
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I don't know if anyone has looked into it far enough to give a difinitive answer as to what specific years definatly will work and what years definatly will not work. My advice would be to bump the part number of the drive you are thinking of using against the part number of a drive that you know will work. If they match up you have a winner. For instance I know any C90 drive will work. I know any VL1500 drive will work. I know any VS1400 drive will work. Bump your part numbers up against any of those drives and look for a match. I know too there is a thread out there of a fella using a drive off a GV1400, the mod is alittle different and the axle does not protrude far enough to get a cotter pin inserted, but he is running it with a nut and locktite.

So unless you can buy one here that has already been modded, you may have to do alittle research on your as many of us have. I will gladly share what I know, I have no secrets (about drives anyway) but when it gets down to modle year, I haven't looked that far into it.

What year and modle are you looking at on e-bay? Shoot me a PM if need be.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Last I heard Dan's website is down. This is the only contact info I have.

Phone 419 656 5347

Dan's got alot of irons in the fire, the trick is to just keep trying.

Aric can be reached via e-mail cuttec1@gmail.com
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
The gears from a C90 will not fit in a C50 drive housing, they are physically too large.

DJ Hillis originaly looked into having a different gearset cut, and unless he wanted to buy like 5000 sets, the costs was not worth it.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Yes, the 1400 driveshaft can be modified. It is quite abit too short, but one of the modifiers, DJ Hillis does lenthen and balance that driveshaft.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
There is a new way to skin the same old cat, it involves trimming 3/16ths of an inch off the engine side of the u-joint and then use a stock, unmodified C50/VL800 driveshaft.

VR member BIGBIRD has done it and it seems to be working. I am pretty convinced that it will cause no problems.

The upside is that the only machining modification is a simple trimming of the u-joint.

The downside is that removing the u-joint is alittle labor intensive, but not all that bad.

You can read about it here. http://www.volusiariders.com/58-motors-transmissions-drives/220864-1500-drive-mod.html
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Thanks Paul. Good luck with your project, there are a number of these modified drives that your Australian pals have done.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Just need my driveshaft and other parts from Aric. Got this baby all polished, now to keep it that way. Anybody spray theirs with clear coat? :wayhappy:


View attachment 17714
Ya got it so smooth and shiny would clear coat stick to it ? :biglaugh:
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Looks good, yes.

A little Never Dull from time to time will keep it looking that good.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Yes that drive would work. Aric can modify any C50 or VL800 driveshaft for you.

Contact Aric

cuttec1@gmail.com

Hillis can do the VL1500 shaft for you but he is quite hard to get ahold of, very busy with other projects I hear.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Discussion starter · #58 ·
I just tried to email Aric at the email shown above. The email did not go through. Do you know if that email is still valid, or if he is still doing the mod? I verified that I didn't make any typos in the email address.

Thanks,
Gary
My bad, try cuttec1@gmail.com

sorry about that.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·