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I've been considering doing this for over a year, and finally mustered up the courage to try. After 2 hours, I have all the valve covers removed, just about to take the plugs out.

I phoned 2 places this morning to get quotes on a valve adjustment. The first place sounded like I was talking to the part time student help. He told me about $100 bucks.
The next place told me it would be about $500, but don't worry about it because he never see's them go out of adjustment until at least 30,000 miles.

Now that I see just how tedious this can be, I'm betting that some (maybe most?) dealerships don't complete this at the 750 mile check up.

The covers came off with some patience, but I've yet to try and get a feeler guage in there. It looks like that will be tricky. I'm assuming that getting the covers back on is going to be trickier than taking them off as well.

Only one valve cover O-ring looks bad, but I will be replacing them all.

Thanks for all the great pics and advice. Could never imagine trying this on my own if it explained so well on here!
 

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I just received a call from the 3rd dealership and they quoted me at $250, and explained how it was done and that the mechanics didn't like the job very much!

This quote is seems reasonable and I might have taken them up on it if he had called back earlier!
 

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Valve Adjustment

Adjusted valves in the C50 today. PITA...started at 1100, finished at 1830. I took my time (still recovering from joint reconstructive surgery in my right hand). The rear cylinder intakes were a too tight prior to adjustment, but I adjusted them all anyway to .004 intake and .008 exhaust. The engine was very quiet prior to adjusting and not much difference after adjustment. I'm 62...maybe I'm going a little deaf. Took it for a ten mile ride around town (Icebox of Connecticut), just before dark. I'm pleased with the results. If my right hand holds up, I'll take a long drive on Sunday.
 

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Very Good tutorial

I have 23,000 on my 2006 C50T. It still sounds like a sewing machine with no tapping...I plan to do this myself...maybe around 30,000..I drive this to work almost everyday in Southeast Fla...21 miles each way...nice to ride at 5:30 in the morning....
 

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Just did mine tonight with this guide.
Not as easy as I thought it would be but by no means would I shell out 250 dollars for that!
Got interesting with the FI TB setup in the way opposed to the carb in the write up but same thing. I'm in the high 13's, maybe 14's by now, and there were no witness marks that it had ever been done.
The engine sounds quieter while the exhaust sounds louder - if that makes any sense.

55% chance of rain tomorrow so this PA hot dog and pie trip might be the real test.
 

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Just did mine tonight with this guide.
Not as easy as I thought it would be but by no means would I shell out 250 dollars for that!
Got interesting with the FI TB setup in the way opposed to the carb in the write up but same thing. I'm in the high 13's, maybe 14's by now, and there were no witness marks that it had ever been done.
The engine sounds quieter while the exhaust sounds louder - if that makes any sense.

55% chance of rain tomorrow so this PA hot dog and pie trip might be the real test.
That's the way it should be if the valves are set right.

"Set right" means that both intake valves are opening and closing at the same instant in time - same with the two exhaust valves on that cylinder - That means that you have maximized the compression in the cylinder and minimized the individual noises that would be heard from each valve if they were set to slightly different clearances.
 

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Well, my '11 C50T has done 12,000 km and I've been doing all my own servicing, so I decided today to do the valve clearances.

I read the manual. Pretty useless.

I went to forum and found this topic. Great!

Then I started taking things apart. Initially, I knew I had to take off the:

1. Seat
2. Pillion seat
3. Tank

After reading the forum I discovered that I'd have to take off the

4. throttle body,

but to do that, I found out you have to take off the:

5. inlet duct from the air filter and
6. the air filter and
7. the PAIR valve-thingy on the left side
8. the ignition switch surround

All was going well until I tried using my special valve-adjusting tool (see photo later). I discovered that, even though it'very compact, it wasn't small enough to get in to adjust 4 out of 8 valves. Then I remembered that I'd seen a post about using a security-screwdriver bit to hold the centre adjuster. All was going swimmingly until this happened:



I was on the third pair of valves (front intake) and the tip of the security bit broke off and went...

[ahem]... SOMEWHERE IN THE VALVE-ADJUSTMENT HOLE


At this point I stopped for lunch. I said a few things I shouldn't have. I returned later with magnetic tips and all manner of equipment for finding the loose bit of steel (about 3mmx1mmx1mm), but I could find nothing.

So, now the bike's back together, the tappet clearances are adjusted, and I have a small piece of hardened steel floating around in my engine somewhere.

What a great day.

BRG.
 

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You small piece of broken tool will end up coming out with the next oil change.
I would make that change as soon as possible. It won't get sucked up by the oil pump (usually a screen would prevent that), but it may be washed around in the gear case causing all sorts of havoc on the gear sets.

I have done 2 C50's twice now and I have never had to remove the throttle body. Can't remember taking off the air filter (point is moot since I went Nekkid). Same with the PAIR system.
 

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Yeah, I figured the same with the broken bit. Once it's on the bottom of the engine I think it will stay there. It's just getting there that worries me.

Re items 4-8 on the list, if you've got a ring spanner with the right shape/size you don't need to get those bits off. I couldn't get the rear cyl intake cover off with the tools I had. That said, having the throttle body off made it a lot easier to see what you're doing on the intakes. It enabled me to clearly see when I broke the bit!

Oh, I forgot to add:

9. the chrome tube on the back cylinder

Even with all that removed, it's still far from an easy job. You need tiny hands.

BRG
 

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I started to do the valves on my 2007 (11,000 mi) last week. I gave up and took it to a shop. I'm glad I did. He told me he had to remove the radiator and the throttle body and still had a time getting to the rear. He quoted me $150 and ended up charging me $210 for the extra trouble. I think the intake was out .003 and the exhaust was out .004. The bike seems to run better. I don't trust the stealerships and bike shops. This guy is an independent so I trust him. He also told me the valves don't need to be done every 7k like Suzuki says but more like 10k-12k.
 

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I wanted to add my thanks for posting all of this info and photos. Worked through it this weekend and got the bike dialed in nicely (the 2nd time through....)

The first time took me about 2 hrs to get to the point of actually adjusting the clearances. After adjusting the valves, I hit the sack cuz it was late. Put everything back together in the morning, started it up, and WOW was it LOUD!!! Too loud....Unbearably loud!!! Something wasn't right...must have been too tired the night before...

Take 2:
The good news - I can get down to adjusting the valves in about 40 minutes now! (Including removing the throttle body) Redid the valves....think I was 180* out on the front cylinder.... Buttoned it back up, and wooHOO! She's back to normal! Even better than normal! Took her on a short little 100mi test drive and smiled all the way (partly for the warm weather finally)

By the way.... For anybody having trouble with the hard-to-access front valve cover bolt:

Loosen the two 12mm bolts on the left side of the front cylinder, slide up the bolts and chrome head cover (can't remove them since the frame is in the way), and you have fairly easy access from the left to that 8mm valve cover bolt. See the picture below to see what I'm trying to describe.

RenHoek

1396315998708.jpg
 

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Completed this procedure today(my second try at it). Thanks for the awesome directions. I do have one question though. How can I make sure the engine isn't 180 degrees out? I waited until the exhaust valve closed and then turned to the adjustment marks. Is this ok? First time I tried I couldn't move the exhaust valves and I'm guessing they were still open. ?

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Why hasn't someone made a YouTube video of this procedure yet?? :)

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We'd have to censure 35% of the video, due to the unavoidable verbal obscenities uttered, when involved with the valve adjustment service. :biglaugh:
 

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How tight is the retention nut?
The ''generic'' torque chart says that the 6mm bolt/nut spec is 88 in/lb.

I realize that you can't get a socket and torque wrench into the tight space with the engine still in the frame so I tried it using my Snap-on in/lb. torque wrench on the engine I have sitting in the corner of my shop.....

That works out to 1/2 flat of rotation from a finger tight position on the adjuster screw/locknut.....

Realistically, it is difficult to tighten that locknut much more than that in that tight location anyway but now we know.... Thanks for asking!!! :wayhappy:
 

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Just finished the expletive inducing task of adjusting the valves on my "new" 2005 C50. :curse:

I had a mechanic do it, but the bike came back with lose of power, tappet noise, and the floor boards feeling like a foot massager from Brookstone. So, I thought I'd tackle it myself to see if the mechanic did a bad job. Turned out all but two of the valves were opened beyond the 5 and 9 thou limit. I could see why, it's a pain to do accurately.

After messing with the feeler gauge set for way too long, I got smart and pulled 3-5 and 7-9 thou and bent them, the tab on the business end being about 3/8 - 7/16 from the tip. I used a long skinny screw driver to nudge them into the gap. The bends also made it convenient to hang them on the handlebar for easy access. I also made a tool to hold the adjuster screws, using a couple square drive screws and scrap piece of hardwood, gluing the screws in place so they would not spin. One screw positioned with the flats parallel, and one diagonal.

These two tricks made the job much easier and precise. It was a lot of extra work, but I figured this would not be the last time I do the adjustment. Hope this helps other weekend mechanics like me.
 

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Just finished the expletive inducing task of adjusting the valves on my "new" 2005 C50. :curse:

......snip
:smoking: . :biglaugh:
 
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