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I just bought a 2005 C50 with a ton (40,000 miles) on it as my first bike. I have since changed every fluid, brakes and clutch and was intimidated about the valves.

Your tutorials were great and gave me the confidence to attempt it. Thanks for the great instructions. Only one set of my valves were tight (Front exhaust), and the rest I tightened slightly to spec.

I wanted to add that getting the Throttle body removed from the large rubber intake to the cylinders was not easy. I had to use a screw driver to slowly work the rubber boot down and away from the throttle body. I was pulling as hard as I could with no success and was worried I was missing something. I was not. It was just very hard to pull off.

Thanks again.
 

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I just bought a 2005 C50 with a ton (40,000 miles) on it as my first bike. I have since changed every fluid, brakes and clutch and was intimidated about the valves.

Your tutorials were great and gave me the confidence to attempt it. Thanks for the great instructions. Only one set of my valves were tight (Front exhaust), and the rest I tightened slightly to spec.

I wanted to add that getting the Throttle body removed from the large rubber intake to the cylinders was not easy. I had to use a screw driver to slowly work the rubber boot down and away from the throttle body. I was pulling as hard as I could with no success and was worried I was missing something. I was not. It was just very hard to pull off.

Thanks again.
I pulled it all off in one piece.
The rubber sleeve still attached to them,
That way I only had to deal w/ the 2 band clamps holding it on to the engine and carefully let it hang to one side w/ all attachments still connected.
Just make sure you put it back on all the way.
I almost didn't but a double check caught it.
I also removed the rubber snorkle assembly too.
 

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Great job. Did mine yesterday and it was well worth it. I strongly suggest that the bike be in NEUTRAL before trying to hand crank the engine to find the timing marks....don't ask me how I know this.
 

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exaust sounds louder

I just finished my valve adjustment and I noticed that my exaust pipes sounded a whole lot louder. I currently have the Cobra streetrod exaust with baffles removed and the cobra fi200 fuel proceser. I notice that after doing a valve adjustment the exaust got louder.

( is this normal? and did any other riders notice this after the adjustment?)
 

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^^ Where your valves on the tight side, if so when you adjusted them you gave the bike a little more comp. causing the engine to hit a little harder making more of an ex. note,a good thing
 

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Yes, the VL800 machines always seem to run stronger after a valve adjustment procedure has been done correctly.

I've maintained adjustments to My machine's valves to the looser side of the factory specifications, after a well known West Coast member heralded the performance benefits of slightly retarded valve timing.
 

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In the winter adjusts the valves, in the season I heard little knock, I hope that I will do it quickly and without pain:blackeye:. I wanted to do this a year ago, but I didn't do that. I found the VR forum how to do it carefully :wayhappy:
 

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i just got my 01 a little over a week ago with 15,000 miles and started the maintenance this week. today i done the valve adjustment because it was pretty noisy. after the adjustment at idle it is so much quiter but while riding it is still kinda chattery. performance and temps are not an issue after the adjustment. i'm extremely new to this bike and suzuki in general so how loud should the ticking be with some throttle to it? i did the intake at .004 and the exhast at .008

the process was easy with this how to. i wouldn't recomend using a pair of needle nose for the adjustment screw like i did today, it would have gone easier and faster with the tool from suzuki or the #10 tool the writer of the how to used. i found the front cyl to be easier to get to and use the feeler on, so if someone is going to do this in the near future that's where i'd start. the tool from suzuki will be in my tool box within the next 7,500 miles

thank you for taking the time to write this up with such detail and the pictures & video made a world of difference. you saved me $180!
 

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I just did mine this last weekend. I really didn't have too many issues except making sure I had it on the compression stroke but found the "play" in the valves and went from there. I couldn't find any way to accurately see and adjust the front exhaust valves. I refused pulling the radiator. Any tricks on getting to that one?? I plan on getting back in there and making sure they are done as all the others were tight. Mine is a brand new '11 C50T btw.

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I have read about noticing slack in the wishbone when at top dead center-which i found. However, do i set the adjustment with this pulled up or just where it sits once the valve closes?
 

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Another valve adjustment completed using this sticky. It is amazing how this simple thread makes it so easy to get one done. Figured I would go naked also, so removed the football while I had her torn apart.

Thanks again to all the hard work and assistance of all here. By far the greatest forum out there.


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Just purchased an 08 c50t w/ 22k miles and no indication that the valves had ever been adjusted. I just adjusted them following the instructions of this thread. I found them all to be considerably tight. I was able to use a feeler guage on the rear cylinder, but couldn't seem to get it to work for me on the front, so I reverted to the jpeg method.

The valve chatter took me aback a bit. It certainly was a lot more noticible than before.

Questions:

First, would it be uncommon to find all the valves to be considerably tight if they hadn't been adjusted for such a long time?

Then, would adjusting them to specs make that much of a difference in the sound of the valve chatter to appear alarming?

During the post adjustment test ride the bike did ride out flawlessly. I did notice a difference in the exhaust sound as other posts have indicated. Also, behind the windshield and lowers, I could really hear the valve sing at highway speed.

Is all this normal?
 

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Should be ok bud. Depends if it sounds like a pissed off sewing machine your fine. If it sounds like a machine gun on steroids you may be a little loose or you pissed someone off and thats an actual machine firing atcha! ! Lol anyway the ticking is the nature of the beast bud. I remember the first time I adjusted the valves on my 89 honda prelude ( ok shut up I was 16 alright!) I nearly crapped down both legs when I fired it up. I thought I really screwed up because before the valve adjustment it was quiet yet it ran crappy on a good day. my dad went back and rechecked my work the next day as informed I did good on em. I asked him why it sounded like it was about to fall apart. In his words "thats just a **** rice burner for ya boy get use to it. If it aint tickin its prolly bout to die." I took it for a drive and it ran better than the day I bought it. Long story short metric cars and bikes typically use adjustable valve tappets which are very hard metal. A lot of american stuff uses bottom out type valvetrain ( not all and not as common on newer models) because americans are, dare I say it, to lazy to check em! There you have it. If in doubt recheck em bud.:eek::eek::):beer:

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i followed someone's post about setting to the high range. think i will go back and reset to the low range to see if it makes that much difference. i figure i can do it in @ 4 hrs this time. getting to know my bike intimately through the process. that may not be a bad thing after all.

after reading other posts regarding valve tightening, i can be certain of the tightness i found throughout, not having been adjusted in 22k miles. i just hope the lack of care by the previous owner hasn't shortened the lifespan of the engine.
 

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I set mine in the middle range: intake @ .004 exhaust @ .008 found that the engine is quite happy in that range. +1 on the sewing machine sound :)

as for damage, if the bike runs great, then I'd say it's okay, nothing really you can do about now. Just keep the valve lash adjustments on schedule and keep on truckin'.

Regular maintenance is the key to a happy and healthy bike.
 

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Reset the valves to .003 & .007. What a difference. Now has that sewing machine sound. Purrs like a kitten and runs like a speckled *** ape. I'll use these setings every 7500 miles from here on. Couldn't sound or run any better.

For me, the key to getting the valves set with feeler guages was to completely remove the locking nut, back the rocker arm stem out far enough to get the feeler guage squarely on the valve, finger tighten the stem onto the guage then run the nut back down on the stem and tighten while holding the stem with the security tip. This allows ample room to work the guage onto even the hardest to reach valve stem.

I was careful when removing the locking nut by using a magnetic reach tool to prevent the nut from being accidently dropped by my fumbly fingers. I replaced them in the same manner. Don't need those things falling into who knows where.

Thanks for such a helpful post.
 
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