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i opened the tank and plastic covers to get access to the ignition assembly. i discovered that the bolts holding the ignition assembly are round so a torx bit would not work. anyone know how to get around this?
I bought the Torx bits. I followed everything...
and they are hammered in place for a 2004 volusia.

Am i in the wrong place or am I looking at a 3rd party repair.

Everything was going. I went to bed then ...
no power,
no lights,
no indicators,
opened up the ignition to find no torx.

(but the light at the back of the bike works when I turn the key counter clockwise to just battery). (when I turn forward to ignition, I get nothing).

If there is a bike electrics guru out there, pls help.

Sincerely,

Stiggy
 

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I bought the Torx bits. I followed everything...
and they are hammered in place for a 2004 volusia.

Am i in the wrong place or am I looking at a 3rd party repair.

Everything was going. I went to bed then ...
no power,
no lights,
no indicators,
opened up the ignition to find no torx.

(but the light at the back of the bike works when I turn the key counter clockwise to just battery). (when I turn forward to ignition, I get nothing).

If there is a bike electrics guru out there, pls help.

Sincerely,

Stiggy
Sorry guy, I ran into the same problem and got no answer...
 

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Guys I have an '04 and I did the mod. You have to be real careful and drill the heads off those 2 hammered in bolts. Then pull the back of the ignition off and carefully with needle nose pliers back out the 2 bolts. Complete the mod then re-install 2 allen head screws. I think I used 6-32 size if I remember correctly. This is not a hard job.
 

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On my 4th ignition switch repair in 12 years. yay! ( I had and 01 Vol too)...Used this post to repair. It get easier each time. lol. Thanks for the great post! Really wished this was not an issue.... thank goodness each time I was home and not in the middle of nowhere when I had the failure.
 

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I have had this problem with my 05 C50 and did the procedure listed with sucess. The recall for the ignition switch only address the external wire routing (from the green plug around the clutch and throttle cable wearing a hole in the insulation) and not the internal defective design of the switch. Suzuki, to my knowledge has not owned up to this one yet.
Here is the language from the recall:
What is Suzuki doing to solve the problem?​
The repair consists of thoroughly inspecting and re-routing the ignition switch wiring harness.
If damage has occured from rubbing, Suzuki will replace the lock set including the ignition
switch along with the clutch cable/throttle cable if necessary. Repair time is approximately​
1 hour and will be performed at no cost to you for parts or labor.

Yah, highly unlikely the switch will be replaced due to wire wear...
 

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Switch Fix! Worked for me until it failed permantently!

Looks as if a few people are having a problem with their bike not starting due to a faulty ignition switch. There is a recall from Suzuki on this, but if you have to fix it yourself, this is how. This is long, but here goes... :lol:

To determine first if this is your problem, when you turn the key on, the brake light is on, the blinkers work, but nothing else does, NOTHING else does. :)

1. Go buy a set of SECURITY TORX bits. These are regular torx bits, but have a hole in the middle. You have to have these first. Preferably, do not get the ones shaped like an allen wrench. Get the ones that you can put on a 1/4 inch extention and ratchet, or a T_Handle set. The specific Torx bit you need is a T-20. Also buy some of that bulb grease while you are there, the kind for light bulbs on a car.

2. Remove drivers seat. If you still have the pillion on, you also have to remove it first. Once the seat is off, remove the 30 AMP main fuse. It is under a plastic cover close to the tank. If you don't remove this fuse, you will blow it when putting the switch back together.



3. Remove gas tank. You do not have to take it off the bike. You can remove the bolt where the front of the seat is, then slide it back. Just pick the back up a little and pull back. Make sure it is sitting solid so it will not fall of the bike. This is about how far I pulled my tank back.



4. Remove the black plastic neck cover opposite the key side. It just pops off. Pull at the bottom then from the top. You will see a metal rod. Maybe an 1/8" in diameter. The top part has a bolt that holds it to the frame. The bottom part just slides into a hole on tab welded to the frame.



5. Now you will see the electrical plug for the switch. Mine is green. You will need to unplug this.


6. Now you will see the back of the iginiton switch. There are are 2 little torx head screws that hold it on. You will have to hold the cables out of the way to remove the screws, as the cables are in the way. Be really carefull when removing these screws, they are small and like to drop into funny nooks and crannies. :shock: :lol:



7. Now you will see a white cross shaped piece of plastic with 2 chrome balls on it. Remove this, it just pulls out, really easy.



8. Here are the spring loaded copper tabs.


These need to go up and down real easy when you press them down. Sometimes they just get stuck down from maybe being "dry". Mine was stuck down because the plastic was a little melted from to much load on the electrical part. I'm thinking maybe my spot lights might be pulling to much juice. So I put them on a switch.

9. Now put some of that grease on these tabs and work it in. Also, spread some grease on the little copper pods in the switch. This black piece just slides out also. If you turn it over, you will see the little resistor there that gives people problems when they try to place an after market switch on their bike. :lol:




10. Now also put some of that grease inside the little cover you pull pulled off. You will see some indentions in there. This is what the 2 little balls on the white piece rotate on. These cause the little bumps you feel when you turn the key.




11. Now put the black piece back in. It only can go in one way. Now slide the white piece back on the shaft. If you look at the end of shaft, you will see is is cross shaped. Look at the end and put the white piece on. One side is thick, one side is narrow. Hard to explain, just look. Match up the hole design in the white piece with the same design at the rod coming out.



12. Now put the cover back on and replace those small screws. Be carefull not to drop them. Just snug these screws up. They are cheap metal and will strip if over tightened.

13. Now replug the electrical connection, replace the 30 amp fuse and turn the key. Everything should work now. If it doesn't work, first check the fuse. If it still doesn't work, pull the fuse, then pull the cover off the switch again and make sure everything is ok. But it should work.

14. Now replace that little metal rod, the plactic neck cover. Then slide the tank back up and rebolt it. Replace you seat(s), start the bike and ride!!

Hope this is able to help some people here.
This is an awesome description I wished I had when I did mine! but I stumbled and fumble until I figured it out... Great explanation...
 

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You just saved me big bucks!

I was having the EXACT symptom on my 2006 Boulevard C50T. The key turns over... the signal lights will work, but it won't even try to start. Before I go further... I'm NOT mechanically inclined. I usually have to have a friend help with anything mechanical (like this). But when I called my local Suzuki dealer... they quoted me $475 for this repair. Then, I saw your thread and frankly I was sure I was going to screw something up... but... I followed the instructions. Everything was going smoothly until I dropped one of the screws that you warned NOT to do. But... I found it. After following all your instructions to the "T"... I went to start the bike. It started RIGHT OFF. Since then, I probably started it about 10 times. Then I took it out for a ride. No problems whatsoever.

THANK YOU!!! It's much appreciated.
 

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Looks as if a few people are having a problem with their bike not starting due to a faulty ignition switch. There is a recall from Suzuki on this, but if you have to fix it yourself, this is how. This is long, but here goes... :lol:

To determine first if this is your problem, when you turn the key on, the brake light is on, the blinkers work, but nothing else does, NOTHING else does. :)


4. Remove the black plastic neck cover opposite the key side. It just pops off. Pull at the bottom then from the top. You will see a metal rod. Maybe an 1/8" in diameter. The top part has a bolt that holds it to the frame. The bottom part just slides into a hole on tab welded to the frame.



5. Now you will see the electrical plug for the switch. Mine is green. You will need to unplug this.
Thread from the dead, resurrected.

Can anyone tell me if THIS green plug is part of THIS wiring harness?

2003 Suzuki Volusia (VL800) WIRING HARNESS (VL800K3/ZK3) | Babbitts Suzuki Partshouse

Mine had to be hard spliced several years ago. Calan is getting it running for me, and we're gathering the needed parts. Last time i took it to Sturgis, it kept just kicking out - riding down the street, then nothing. I guess the splice was giving out then. So, i went and bought a Goldwing :) - But i miss my little Mickey Vol.
 

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Thread from the dead, resurrected.

Can anyone tell me if THIS green plug is part of THIS wiring harness?

2003 Suzuki Volusia (VL800) WIRING HARNESS (VL800K3/ZK3) | Babbitts Suzuki Partshouse

Mine had to be hard spliced several years ago. Calan is getting it running for me, and we're gathering the needed parts. Last time i took it to Sturgis, it kept just kicking out - riding down the street, then nothing. I guess the splice was giving out then. So, i went and bought a Goldwing :) - But i miss my little Mickey Vol.
The one in the picture is on a C50. It has fewer wires than a Vol. The link you posted is a Volusia harness. They are different.
 

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The one in the picture is on a C50. It has fewer wires than a Vol. The link you posted is a Volusia harness. They are different.
I have an '03 Volusia. I just want to know if the GREEN cube shown in the picture is part of the wiring harness I posted the link to, or if it's a part unto itself??
 

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I have an '03 Volusia. I just want to know if the GREEN cube shown in the picture is part of the wiring harness I posted the link to, or if it's a part unto itself??
There is a male end and a female. One half of the green plug is on the harness, the other is part of the ignition switch assembly. On a Vol, it's the 6 pin shown in the picture below.
 

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Harry,

You might want to mention that the grease you're using should be a conductive type of grease. There are some grease's out there that may actually do more harm than good. I recommend "No-Ox" grease. This is a conductive grease and keeps unmatched metals from corroding. You can find No-Ox at Home Depot or Lowe's in the electrical isle. Otherwise, great post and great pictures!!!
 

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Ignition Switch

What size security Torx do I need? I have a 2005 Suzuki C50. I have to buy some but Amazon is showing both 5 and 6 star ones. Thanks
 

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What size security Torx do I need? I have a 2005 Suzuki C50. I have to buy some but Amazon is showing both 5 and 6 star ones. Thanks
Hey NightRider5o, that would be the T-20 Torx bit. I have same bike as you and have been in there twice to repair and again in Oct to replace the whole switch. Might as well keep that bit on my key ring....Good luck!
 

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Hey NightRider5o, that would be the T-20 Torx bit. I have same bike as you and have been in there twice to repair and again in Oct to replace the whole switch. Might as well keep that bit on my key ring....Good luck!


Thank you for the response Mr. Johnny. I actually just got the bike. Having to replace whole switch due to no keys.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Does it matter what orientation the white cross shaped piece of plastic goes back into the ignition? I took mine out a week or so ago and am just now getting back to lube the slides and button everything back up. However I don?t remember how it was oriented and nothing I try works. Unfortunately the original pictures are no longer linked or it?d be an easy find.
 

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Does it matter what orientation the white cross shaped piece of plastic goes back into the ignition? I took mine out a week or so ago and am just now getting back to lube the slides and button everything back up. However I don?t remember how it was oriented and nothing I try works. Unfortunately the original pictures are no longer linked or it?d be an easy find.
I don't believe so. I had that piece out 10 times over 2-3 years. As long as it's not backwards. Each of the 4 sections are identical. What issue are you having. Won't go back in or no power after you get it back together?
 

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I hate photobucket. They should die.
 
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