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Discussion Starter #1
Looks as if a few people are having a problem with their bike not starting due to a faulty ignition switch. There is a recall from Suzuki on this, but if you have to fix it yourself, this is how. This is long, but here goes... :lol:

To determine first if this is your problem, when you turn the key on, the brake light is on, the blinkers work, but nothing else does, NOTHING else does. :)

1. Go buy a set of SECURITY TORX bits. These are regular torx bits, but have a hole in the middle. You have to have these first. Preferably, do not get the ones shaped like an allen wrench. Get the ones that you can put on a 1/4 inch extention and ratchet, or a T_Handle set. The specific Torx bit you need is a T-20. Also buy some of that bulb grease while you are there, the kind for light bulbs on a car.

2. Remove drivers seat. If you still have the pillion on, you also have to remove it first. Once the seat is off, remove the 30 AMP main fuse. It is under a plastic cover close to the tank. If you don't remove this fuse, you will blow it when putting the switch back together.



3. Remove gas tank. You do not have to take it off the bike. You can remove the bolt where the front of the seat is, then slide it back. Just pick the back up a little and pull back. Make sure it is sitting solid so it will not fall of the bike. This is about how far I pulled my tank back.



4. Remove the black plastic neck cover opposite the key side. It just pops off. Pull at the bottom then from the top. You will see a metal rod. Maybe an 1/8" in diameter. The top part has a bolt that holds it to the frame. The bottom part just slides into a hole on tab welded to the frame.



5. Now you will see the electrical plug for the switch. Mine is green. You will need to unplug this.


6. Now you will see the back of the iginiton switch. There are are 2 little torx head screws that hold it on. You will have to hold the cables out of the way to remove the screws, as the cables are in the way. Be really carefull when removing these screws, they are small and like to drop into funny nooks and crannies. :shock: :lol:



7. Now you will see a white cross shaped piece of plastic with 2 chrome balls on it. Remove this, it just pulls out, really easy.



8. Here are the spring loaded copper tabs.


These need to go up and down real easy when you press them down. Sometimes they just get stuck down from maybe being "dry". Mine was stuck down because the plastic was a little melted from to much load on the electrical part. I'm thinking maybe my spot lights might be pulling to much juice. So I put them on a switch.

9. Now put some of that grease on these tabs and work it in. Also, spread some grease on the little copper pods in the switch. This black piece just slides out also. If you turn it over, you will see the little resistor there that gives people problems when they try to place an after market switch on their bike. :lol:




10. Now also put some of that grease inside the little cover you pull pulled off. You will see some indentions in there. This is what the 2 little balls on the white piece rotate on. These cause the little bumps you feel when you turn the key.




11. Now put the black piece back in. It only can go in one way. Now slide the white piece back on the shaft. If you look at the end of shaft, you will see is is cross shaped. Look at the end and put the white piece on. One side is thick, one side is narrow. Hard to explain, just look. Match up the hole design in the white piece with the same design at the rod coming out.



12. Now put the cover back on and replace those small screws. Be carefull not to drop them. Just snug these screws up. They are cheap metal and will strip if over tightened.

13. Now replug the electrical connection, replace the 30 amp fuse and turn the key. Everything should work now. If it doesn't work, first check the fuse. If it still doesn't work, pull the fuse, then pull the cover off the switch again and make sure everything is ok. But it should work.

14. Now replace that little metal rod, the plactic neck cover. Then slide the tank back up and rebolt it. Replace you seat(s), start the bike and ride!!

Hope this is able to help some people here.
 

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Nice work and this seems like a very helpful document.

If I had an affected bike and this hasn't happened yet, I'd be scheduling the recall fix at the dealer. Might as well let Suzuki's folks fix the Suzuki screw-up, but that's just me. I'm always afraid I'm gonna mess something up and make it worse than it was to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OTG said:
Awesome work harryp!
I'm smellin' something sticky if a moderator comes around.
Thanks. I was in another town when this happened the 2nd time. So I had my son come pick me up and take me home. I got the torx wrenches, I had every other tool I needed in my bags. 8) Then while I was waiting for him to pick me up, I thought I might as well take pictures write up a list so I could post it. :) This takes maybe 30 minutes even with taking pictures, with a hot sun beating down on you in a parking lot. :lol:

Btw, 4-5 other bikers pulled into the same lot I was in, got gas, etc, and never even bothered to say a word. Some bikers those guys are... :roll:
 

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VeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrYYYYYYY interesting Harry, I have a little switch work to do on my rebuilder myself. Good pics to refer to when I get in there. Thanks.
Viper
 

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Discussion Starter #6
TNrookie said:
Nice work and this seems like a very helpful document.

If I had an affected bike and this hasn't happened yet, I'd be scheduling the recall fix at the dealer. Might as well let Suzuki's folks fix the Suzuki screw-up, but that's just me. I'm always afraid I'm gonna mess something up and make it worse than it was to begin with.
What is sad with the dealer, is they do charge some people for the ignition switch. and guess what? You have to replace the gas cap also so the same key will work. You can remove the other side of the switch and just put the old tumbler set in. real easy. Heck, when I did this last fix, I did pull the other side off and spray the tumblers with WD-40. Now my key goes right in!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
472viper said:
VeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrYYYYYYY interesting Harry, I have a little switch work to do on my rebuilder myself. Good pics to refer to when I get in there. Thanks.
Viper
You refering to the diode/resistor in the switch by chance? :lol:
 

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harryp said:
472viper said:
VeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrYYYYYYY interesting Harry, I have a little switch work to do on my rebuilder myself. Good pics to refer to when I get in there. Thanks.
Viper
You refering to the diode/resistor in the switch by chance? :lol:
LOL, no get this, the M50 was hit so hard that the key side of the ignition switch cracked almost in two. I have another switch assembly, but as you said I will have to remove the the keyset from the cracked set and install it in the replacement so the ignition and gas cap are still keyed alike.
Viper
 

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thanks or the photos and writeup, forum needs all the info we can get.....you think a little wd40 worked into the switch might help a little?
 

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Recall does not address this.

I have had this problem with my 05 C50 and did the procedure listed with sucess. The recall for the ignition switch only address the external wire routing (from the green plug around the clutch and throttle cable wearing a hole in the insulation) and not the internal defective design of the switch. Suzuki, to my knowledge has not owned up to this one yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
472viper said:
LOL, no get this, the M50 was hit so hard that the key side of the ignition switch cracked almost in two. I have another switch assembly, but as you said I will have to remove the the keyset from the cracked set and install it in the replacement so the ignition and gas cap are still keyed alike.
Viper
Once you remove the 2 little screws on the key side, there is only 4 parts.

The lock cylinder, a spring, a cylinder cover, and main cover.

Here is the cylinder...


Here is the spring inside the switch. Carefull, as it can just fall out. If you have a problem getting the cyclinder back in with the spring, put a dab of grease in the end of the cylinder. It will hold the spring for you. I used the bulb grease. The spring goes over the rod inside there that turns.


Then the 2 covers.


Hope this helps. :D
 

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DAMN I wish I would have seen this a while back. I ended up buying a whole new lock set (used, at least) because my ignition switch went bad out in Sturgis. Stopped me dead. I don't remember, but I don't think I had any lights or anything. Thankfully Cobra and JJ got me wired up to get me home, but I ended up buying the parts.

As for the recall, it wasnt covered on the 03's anyway.

Got to mark this for the next time it happens. Thanks for the great details.
 

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Subscribed and you were right on the money. I only wished I hadn't pulled the whole switch off the bike first cause it's a bitch to get off, god only knows how long it'll me take to get it back on...LOL
 

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Many Thanks harryp for thinking of everyone else. I haven't had this problem (yet), but I'm saving this info for future reference.
 

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Iginition switch

My C50 failed to start on a Sunday, 70 miles from home ,in a area that doesn't have cell phone reception. After a couple hours of checking all possibilities and pushing the starter button, the starter motor finally kicked in. I drove it home with stopping. When I got home the starter worked intermittently. I took the bike to the dealer and the problem couldn't be replicated. It worked fine. Several months later the starter motor was dead again...fortunately while I was at a friends house, about nine miles from the dealer. The dealer sent a truck over to pick up the bike. They found the problem the next day and replaced the ignition switch under the extended warranty. The dealer described the copper contact sticking exactly as you presented in your pictures. Nice job on documenting the fix!
 

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Year Bike

Is this recall only on C-50's or Volusia's too?
 

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Its not on the 2003's as far as I know. I tried that and got nowhere so I am guessing its only the C50's. Also, I believe the recall is only on a wiring issue (may include a harness) but its not for the switch.
 

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Re: Iginition switch

Raygun said:
My C50 failed to start on a Sunday, 70 miles from home ,in a area that doesn't have cell phone reception. After a couple hours of checking all possibilities and pushing the starter button, the starter motor finally kicked in. I drove it home with stopping. When I got home the starter worked intermittently. I took the bike to the dealer and the problem couldn't be replicated. It worked fine. Several months later the starter motor was dead again...fortunately while I was at a friends house, about nine miles from the dealer. The dealer sent a truck over to pick up the bike. They found the problem the next day and replaced the ignition switch under the extended warranty. The dealer described the copper contact sticking exactly as you presented in your pictures. Nice job on documenting the fix!
Would your bike crank at all when you had this problem? I'm having it on my c90 and it will crank but it's getting no spark. I'm going to try cleaning the iginition switch tonight and see if it helps. everything else seems to check out.
 

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When my ignition switch went out this week, nothing would happen when it turned the key on...no headlights...no dash lites...only taillight and turn signals worked.

It's in the shop now for its replacement under extended warranty coverage.

Jeff
 
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