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simple helmet lock relocation

8.6K views 37 replies 23 participants last post by  bipestuff  
#1 ·
Chances are this a very common location for the helmet lock, but since it's my first mod I figured I'd share. I've had a bike now for 5 days so it must be time to change something :)

I removed the top bolt from the backrest and used a longer bolt to attach the lock. The hole in the lock is smaller than the backrest bolt so I used a thinner bolt. The bolt also had to have a smaller head so that it would sit deep enough in the lock to be able to keep the lock functional.

In between the lock and chrome I used a plastic washer from a spindle of CD-R's to avoid scratches.

After finding all the pieces in my junk draw the actual mod took no more than a few minutes.

Here's the end result:
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#2 ·
Great job! Next up: lay the billboard, I mean license plate, down! :lol: :wink:
 
#5 ·
You could use the bottom bolt too but you'd have to face the lock the other direction, meaning it would be a little harder to see the sliding bar.

This would obviously work on the left side too if someone prefered. I chose the right side with the sliding bar facing up because it seemed like it would be the easiest way for me to see what I'm doing.
 
#6 ·
nice job jason1gp, and congrats on being part of the "cool key club" 8)

just mind the badges on it - if you drop the key in cold weather, they'll pop off (happened to me twice). a little drop of krazy glue helps..

cheers!

-mistress k
 
#9 ·
what happened to the bracket welded to the fender rail?

So, did you grind off the steel bracket that was welded to the fender rail, or is it still there looking FUGLY. I like where you relocated, but was just curious what the old location looked like.
 
#11 ·
Yes

I couldn't agree with you more, when I saw your post I went to do the mod and after taking off the fender rail, I decided NOT to get out my grinder, and I just put everything back. I mostly ride solo, and have never used the helmet lock.
 
#12 ·
Re: what happened to the bracket welded to the fender rail?

Samjam said:
So, did you grind off the steel bracket that was welded to the fender rail, or is it still there looking FUGLY. I like where you relocated, but was just curious what the old location looked like.
I moved mine to the sissybar also ,Mines a different type of bar.. but You'll like it there.. as far as the old bracket... I covered mine with a piece of black leather Glued in place.. Can't really see it much with the bags on.
 
#13 ·
:applause: :applause: Awesome placement ... I lost a bolt on the bottom of the sissybar bracket... I just put a regular bolt & nut in it's place & it looks fugly...

my H-lock is just hiding behind my bags ... I'm thinking I'll be moving it up to the s-bar to hide that fugly bolt! 8)
 
#14 ·
I moved my lock last night just the same as you did. I have the same sissy bar and luggage rack.

Anyway, I had to go to Lowes to get some parts and wanted to share with those who need to buy new hardware.

First I bought a 2 pack of 1/4-20x3 Round bolt w/nut and a small package of flat Nylon washers. I used a nylon washer and regular washer on the back side of the nut and another nylon washer behind the lock to protect the chrome.

I wanted to used the biggest bolt I could so I had to modify the head to get it to fit past the "bar" on the lock. A quick zip with the Dremel took care of it. I also had to cut the bolt down to about 2 inches long (Lowes was out of the 2 and 2.5 inch bolts).

I bet you could get away with the 2 inch bolt but when in doubt you can always get longer and cut it down (hint* screw the nut on past your cut first so you can use it to clean the cut when you screw it off)

pic of modified bolt
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#18 ·
BikeHunter said:
I wanted to used the biggest bolt I could so I had to modify the head to get it to fit past the "bar" on the lock. A quick zip with the Dremel took care of it.
I forgot to mention in the original post that if the bolt doesn't fit past the lock bar, the lock itself comes apart and you can move the bar out of the way. I took it apart for my first bolt only to discover that the head wouldn't sit into the cut grove, which resulted in the lock being useless because there was a head of a bolt blocking the spot where I'd put the D-Ring. So I ended up switching to a smaller bolt head which fit into the cut groove.

Thanks for posting the size of the bolts used. I didn't bother measuring mine, I just grabbed a few I had in the drawer and chose one about the right length :)
 
#21 ·
New owner of C50 so not all that up on it yet, but to remove the lock do i need to remove fender rail or fender? look like rail

thanks
You do not need to remove the fender rail unless you plan on cutting the bracket off. There is one screw holding the helmet lock on and it takes one of those security screw bits to remove it.
 
#20 ·
I like it , Good Job
 
#22 ·
Could you get a counter sink head on that bolt and nut ,and counter sink the bolt head and be ok??
 
#24 ·
Dont remove the plates, without searching for "fender bolt". If you take both bolts out you may have a nighmare puting it all back. If you have to you may be able to remove the front one and loosen the back one to swing the plate out of the way.
 
#25 ·
Great job! I'll be doing this on my 2010 C50T!
What "size" bolt did you use? Length too? I'll probably try to pick up something in chrome at "Lowes" or "Home Depot", as well as the plastic washer.
Gawd I love this "relocation". (I looked at the 'helmet lock' behind the saddle bags and for the life of me couldn't figure out how I would ever use it, because you just can't insert the key, with the saddle bags in front.)
 
#26 ·
I'm not positive about the bolt size. It was actually just a spare bolt I had. For a cleaner look you can mount it on the lower bolt hole, but you'd have to grind the tab off of the back of the lock.
 
#28 ·
Nice! Might have to give it a try.