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Hi rjrc50,
Thank you for the info about the stand. If you want check out this web site
http://www.meetup.com/East-Fishkill-Motorcycle-Riders/ We have a group that we meet and ride, no big deal just for the fun of riding, we have some people who live by you. I love that 301. Thanks again, MJ
 

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OregonLAN said:
Thanks for the comments everyone. I took the photos using a point and shoot Sony that my ex-wife has. I brought my D40 home from work, but the battery was dead.
Ya know that makes me feel a little more comfortable doing it myself, thanks a lot
dave
 

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Here's a tip that might save you from pulling the radiator. The only tappet that I found was a real struggle to get to was the front left exhaust. A radiator hose goes right over it and though I could get a box end wrench on it there was no room to turn it to break the tappet lock nut free. I was just about ready to start pulling the radiator to get access when this idea hit me.
Loosen the clamp on the radiator hose where it attaches to the engine. You don't have to remove the hose, just loosen that end up. You can now bend the hose up enough to slip a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and small socket on to the lock nut.
I didn't have ratcheting box ends, if you do you may not run into this problem.
 

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Tomorrow night I will be adjusting the valves, changing coolant, and replacing spark plugs. I have 15k on my 04 and none of these have ever been done. Do you think that I am going to find some tight valves? Do I need to get a gasket for the valve covers or is it reusable?
 

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reusable if in good shape. IE: not squished outa shape, no nicks or cuts.
 

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Thanks!

Never seems to fail, when I get around to doing this project I seem to have misplaced my hardcopy instructions... But I never fret, cause I know it's online somewhere here on VR. And to now to find it with pictures! Thanks for taking the time to document this! Already have my bike pulled apart and was verifying the Jpaige method and the F/T and R/T instructions. Thanks again! Hopefully I'll get a ride in this afternoon before the rain hits! Ride Safe!
 

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yes
 

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what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a lowe pitched errrr,errrr sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
 

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mxlj said:
what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a lowe pitched errrr,errrr sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
Because they got it wrong.
going the wrong way sets the rings incorrectly
 

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Boxwrench said:
mxlj said:
what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a lowe pitched errrr,errrr sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
Because they got it wrong.
going the wrong way sets the rings incorrectly
ok, what exactly does it do to the rings? and will one turn clockwise do any damage?
 

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mxlj said:
Boxwrench said:
mxlj said:
what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a Lowe pitched error,error sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
Because they got it wrong.
going the wrong way sets the rings incorrectly
OK, what exactly does it do to the rings? and will one turn clockwise do any damage?
No. It is just that the rings wear in the direction of operation and take a set to how they seat. Just don't do it very often.
 

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Doing so can cause the cam chain to jump a tooth.
 

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ECKS said:
Doing so can cause the cam chain to jump a tooth.
ya, that too.
 

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ECKS said:
Doing so can cause the cam chain to jump a tooth.
now the cam tensioner or to much slack, jumping a tooth etc. something like that i could see. well i guess i will see what happens when i fire it up. everything possible is going wrong for me today. :brick: :vent:
couldnt get one valve cover bolt off, finally did (1/2hour + later). lost a socket, still havent found where it went but it was before any of the covers/plugs were taken off. rounded another valve cover bolt. the Factory or suzuki dealer put on way to tight. and if course it was one of the hard to get to ones. etc. etc. I could have rebuild both my motocross bike engines faster and easier than this is going for me. Just one of those days i guess.
 

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Whao, that is a nice How-to! I checked valves today, and the clearance is at around 0.006 in. I wonder if the clearance can be detrimental to the bike's operation (at that value, my guess is no)? Valves were checked with cold engine, at a 13000km.

Thanks,
JD
 

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I finally got around to adjusting my valves today, and thanks to this guide it went pretty well (pending a test ride).

One thing that helped a lot was the fact that I got a feeler gauge that has angled blades and disassembles so that you can take individual blades out of it. Here's a link to the specific tool: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM223947147P?mv=rr

Once I figured out I could take the tool apart, the actual adjustment went quickly. Most of the time I spent was taking parts off to get to the valves.

My only note of caution is if you have any inclination to change your coolant, just drain it before you start the valve adjustment. I got in a hurry and started taking hoses off to get at the valve covers, and ended up with the entire contents of the radiator on the garage floor.
 
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