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Ummm I have some Noob questions...

How do you know which is the intake and which is the exhaust valve? Maybe they are labeled? <-- I thought so, exhaust valves closest to exhaust.

Also on the video the valves seem to move up and down at the same time.

When the intake closes (up) and RT is in the view sight are both valves up and that is when you measure & adjust both at the same time? <-- Dho! I just realized... Intakes closed, valves down. Thanks Boxwrench.

"The V Shaped arm will be able to be moved ever so slightly up and down when you are on the right stroke"
Thanks t-man403. That's good insight.


Oh thanks also Smithy

ThANKS!
 

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RT = Rear Top position
FT = Front Top position

means the cylinder is at the firing point and bothe valves are closed.
So at this point you can set the valves.

Be sure you are on the COMPRESSION stroke. It is possible to set the valves 180* off on the exhaust stroke....bad.....
 

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Acerbus Volusia said:
Ummm I have some Noob questions...

How do you know which is the intake and which is the exhaust valve? Maybe they are labeled?

Also on the video the valves seem to move up and down at the same time.

When the intake closes (up) and RT is in the view sight are both valves up and that is when you measure & adjust both at the same time?

Maybe this will make more sense once I look in there I don't know. I'm going to try and do this Saturday, thanks guys!
Exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust pipes. RT is for the rear and FT for the front. The V Shaped arm will be able to be moved ever so slightly up and down when you are on the right stroke of the RT or FT. If not, rotate till you come to the marking again.
 

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Appreciate the info...

Boxwrench said:
Be sure you are on the COMPRESSION stroke. It is possible to set the valves 180* off on the exhaust stroke....bad.....
K, how do you know you are on the COMPRESSION stroke?


and what does "bad" mean?
 

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Timewarp said:
Appreciate the info...

Boxwrench said:
Be sure you are on the COMPRESSION stroke. It is possible to set the valves 180* off on the exhaust stroke....bad.....
K, how do you know you are on the COMPRESSION stroke?


and what does "bad" mean?
It's too early in the morning! :D "Bad" is wrong stroke for adjusting. Read my comment below "Boxwrench" and hopefully it will be a little clearer.
 

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Bad = engine runs like fresh horse pucky......

To see if you are at Top Dead Center you can slide a Long thin rod like item ( too long to fall in all the way, non metallic better) in the plug hole and feel the piston stop going up
 

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Acerbus Volusia said:
Also on the video the valves seem to move up and down at the same time.
They're not moving at exactly the same time, the intake opens just as the exhaust closes.

This page has an animation that gives you a good look at what's going on inside cylinder as the crank turns: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

As you can see, the piston will be at the top of the stroke when the exhaust closes and the intake opens, but this is not the position you want to adjust the valves. Turn the engine one more rotation to get to top dead center.
 

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Just finished. It was bit tough. The clearances between the screw and the valves is so small. My valves did not seem to have any before I adjusted them.

Whats a sign that the valve adjustment has been done correctly?

I did not test ride it, it's still on the lift since I'll lube the spline tomorrow.

Thanks guys.
 

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Acerbus Volusia said:
Just finished. It was bit tough. The clearances between the screw and the valves is so small. My valves did not seem to have any before I adjusted them.

Whats a sign that the valve adjustment has been done correctly?

I did not test ride it, it's still on the lift since I'll lube the spline tomorrow.

Thanks guys.
snappier performance and a soft ticking of an angry sewing machine.
 

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I can hear the ticking, I assume it's from the new clearence on the valves, and the sewing machine sound. Performance seemed the same. Hard to tell but it did feel different. A bit smoother. Someone said a noisy engine is a happy engine with the Vol, I guess its true.

I'll keep a close eye on performance and over heating just in case something is wrong.

I would suggest to people to get new gaskets for the valve covers. Also those screws seem to strip easily, take easy there. Thanks!
 

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valve adjustment 101l

Does anyone know how much different the procedure is to adjust the valves on a 2008 c50 vs. a 2002 volusia? Is there enough room to actually do the job correctly? Will i need any additional or special tools? Or should I just pay a stealer to do the job?

Any suggestions or help would really be great.

Paul
 

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Re: valve adjustment 101l

pwsl100 said:
Does anyone know how much different the procedure is to adjust the valves on a 2008 c50 vs. a 2002 volusia? Is there enough room to actually do the job correctly? Will i need any additional or special tools? Or should I just pay a stealer to do the job?

Any suggestions or help would really be great.

Paul
Are you asking if these instructions (for a Volusia) are adequate to use on a C50? If so, then yes, they are. I've never had a Volusia, but I used these instructions to adjust my C50 valves without any serious trouble.
 

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Thanks for the guide. I did the 600 mile valve service on my 2009 C50. It differs from the pictures posted due to the fuel injection. The procedure is the same, but I figured I would post some updated pictures showing the throttle body removal.


Here you can see the TB removed and turned on it's side. You have to disconnect both the green and white connectors to get enough room to swing the TB on it's side. Also I put a piece of paper towel into each intake port just to make sure if I dropped something I wouldn't have to take the whole thing apart.



Here you can see the clamp hex screw that tightens the two bores of the TB to the intake manifold. The clamp loosens and tighten both bores from the one screw. I also removed the chrome tube that goes over the top of the valve covers. It was easier then trying to work around them.



Here's a picture from the right side.
 

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+1 on all of the post above for the C50. I did the same.
Fortunate for me I found brass feeler gauges that can be bent into a Z shape to help get them into the valve tappets.
 

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RT = Rear Top position
FT = Front Top position

means the cylinder is at the firing point and bothe valves are closed.
So at this point you can set the valves.

Be sure you are on the COMPRESSION stroke. It is possible to set the
valves 180* off on the exhaust stroke....bad.....
I'm about to take the big step. But this is TROUBLING me! If you see the R/T
or F/T in the viewing port, isn't it impossible to be 180 degrees off? I mean,
if I have "R/T" in the window, I can adjust all four of the valves in the rear
cylinder--2 exhaust and 2 intake, right?
 

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Okie am gonna bump your question and ask one myself. If I can see R/T in the sight and the piston is at the top as indicated by my dowel rod in the spark plug hole I can adjust all of the rear valves?

Is the same true for the front? with piston at the top and F/T in the sight?
 

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STEAK said:
Okie am gonna bump your question and ask one myself. If I can see R/T in the sight and the piston is at the top as indicated by my dowel rod in the spark plug hole I can adjust all of the rear valves?

Is the same true for the front? with piston at the top and F/T in the sight?
yes. both intake and exhaust valves are closed.

Provided you aren't 180 degrees off in the rotation.
 

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Okie said:
I'm about to take the big step. But this is TROUBLING me! If you see the R/T
or F/T in the viewing port, isn't it impossible to be 180 degrees off? I mean,
if I have "R/T" in the window, I can adjust all four of the valves in the rear
cylinder--2 exhaust and 2 intake, right?
Okie,

There are 2 TDC positions for each cylinder. TDC on the compression stroke and TDC on the exhaust stroke. Both will correspond with the RT/FT mark printed on the flywheel. If you try to set the valve clearance on the exhaust stroke, you will end up 180* out and it will affect the valve clearance. At TDC on the compression stroke, there is no pressure on either the intake and exhaust rocker arm. If you are at TDC on the exhaust stroke, the intake valves will be completely closed, but the exhaust valves will be open or partially open. Setting the clearance on this TDC will result in extremely loose exhaust valves and a poor running engine.

When you have the cylinder set to TDC on the compression stroke, Then you will adjust ALL of the valves at the same time. Exhaust valves are between .007 and .009" and the intake valves are between .003 and .005"

It's time consuming and a bit intimidating the first time you do it. But if you have the right tools and a bit of patience, it really isn't a hard maintenance to perform..
 
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