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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I still have overheating issues after flush, fill and new thermostat. I am now wanting to check to make sure the water pump is indeed fact pumping so wanted to check the inside out but the impeller isnt lined up with the screws and the impeller only twists about a quarter inch max and still cant see the screws........ Normal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone know how this is? Or have this happen to them?
 

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Anyone know how this is? Or have this happen to them?
You are working against the slot ended drive shaft that turns the pump from further inside the engine.

Rotate the engine counter clockwise using the bolt under the plug on the left side engine cover. The crankshaft must rotate towards the front of the bike at the top of its rotation.

Don't turn the engine over in the reverse direction....

Just rotate far enough to be able to access each of the water pump bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Gene, is ther anything in particular I should look for when I take it out other than the bearing? Dont know if its not turning but is my only hope cuz I dont have any leaks
 

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Ok so I still have overheating issues after flush, fill and new thermostat. I am now wanting to check to make sure the water pump is indeed fact pumping so wanted to check the inside out but the impeller isnt lined up with the screws and the impeller only twists about a quarter inch max and still cant see the screws........ Normal?
There isn't much to go wrong with the water pump except for leakage. The blades on the pump look good.

If you proceed with the removal you should replace the O-rings that seal the outside of the bearing housing or replace the pump as an assembly.

From the look of the pump, unless there was external leakage from the weep hole, you should be ok. With leakage comes eventual bearing failure.

I'd be more suspicious of external rad fin problems or internal tube blockage in the rad that will reduce cooling.



http://www.partforyamaha.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=SUZ#/Suzuki_Motor_of_America%2c_Inc/VL800C_(2006)/WATER_PUMP/023020002/56023020016



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok thanks, then I will leave it alone and concentrate on the radiator itself. I noticed a couple dings on the backside of it but not sure if it is enough to cause a problem. Not an expert in that field lol. I will take a quick pic of both sides if you wouldnt mind giving me your opinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Front seem really good, not bent fins


Back has couple spots but worste is where the fan touches it


Closer view of it
 

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I have an 03. I recently replaced my fan switch. The fan was running but it was kicking in at a higher temp.....just something else to think about.

Ride Safe!
 

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The red circled location is full of sand/gravel and the blue area has bruised fins.... no cooling. that is a significant contribution to the overall problem.

There is no way of seeing what the tubes are like inside with blocking by scale and corrosion being the possibility there. use a garden hose to the bottom rad hose to back flush the tubes a bit....there should be a good flow out the top hose connection.
 

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The red circle indicates where the fins are plugged with gravel/sand and the blue, where the fins are bruised... a significant contribution to overheating....

No telling what the scale buildup is like inside the tubes. use a garden hose on the bottom rad hose connector to back flush the tubes a bit... there should be good flow out the top connector.

 
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IMO the small amount of bent fins will not cause your problem (if there where a lot more then i would be concerned) . now the packed dirt i agree can be an issue. now for hooking up a garden hose to make sure you have flow thru it is not good enough either... you need a large amount of water to be forced into it to see if it flows good. i would only be guessing but lets just say all but 6 tubes where clogged, using a garden hose would show good flow when in fact that was not the case. i would take the radiator back to the place you got the flush and ask them to flush it again or to somewhere else. i suspect they didn't do a Power Flush properly and broke some scale loose that ended up clogging up your radiator. now i say this is my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have an 03. I recently replaced my fan switch. The fan was running but it was kicking in at a higher temp.....just something else to think about.

Ride Safe!
Funny thing is, I used to only overheat when stuck in traffic for long periods of time and the fan would only come on every so often and would only be on for like 10-15 seconds. I have now changed the fan switch and now it stays on for long periods of time, also freeway riding now always has the fan running as I am slowing down on an off ramp. Never did that before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Even with the fan running a lot more then it did, the motor is so hot that I can barely even touch the key when I take it out of the ignition.
Now speaking of ignition, I am thinking my ignitor (CDI) is going bad. Could a bad ignitor make the motor run hotter than usual? A lot of times when sitting at idle, the motor would be running perfect at 1100 rpms and then all of the sudden the rpms creep down to about 700 rpms then just cuts off. Go to start it again and you have to give it gas and hold it till it slowly fires back up. If I give it gas as it starts to creep down it runs fine, so I have to do that at lights sometimes. Runs fine otherwise
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
after flush, fill and new thermostat DID YOU BLED THE SET-EM TO GET ALL THE AIR OUT JUST ASKING
I poured coolant in real slow till neck is full then shook the bike back and forth and side to side. Kept filling as it went down. Kept doing this for about 15 minutes until it wouldnt burp up anymore air. Then I started it up and let it run till the fan kicked on then shut it off and did it again when it cooled down
 

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I poured coolant in real slow till neck is full then shook the bike back and forth and side to side. Kept filling as it went down. Kept doing this for about 15 minutes until it wouldnt burp up anymore air. Then I started it up and let it run till the fan kicked on then shut it off and did it again when it cooled down
That is the right way.... The cooling system takes exactly 1.5 liters....

That fills the engine till it won't take any more and also fills the expansion tank to the right level.
 

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Even with the fan running a lot more then it did, the motor is so hot that I can barely even touch the key when I take it out of the ignition.
Now speaking of ignition, I am thinking my ignitor (CDI) is going bad. Could a bad ignitor make the motor run hotter than usual? A lot of times when sitting at idle, the motor would be running perfect at 1100 rpms and then all of the sudden the rpms creep down to about 700 rpms then just cuts off. Go to start it again and you have to give it gas and hold it till it slowly fires back up. If I give it gas as it starts to creep down it runs fine, so I have to do that at lights sometimes. Runs fine otherwise
If the key is getting hot, you may have an internal ignition switch problem.. some do develop that way.
 

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Funny thing is, I used to only overheat when stuck in traffic for long periods of time and the fan would only come on every so often and would only be on for like 10-15 seconds. I have now changed the fan switch and now it stays on for long periods of time, also freeway riding now always has the fan running as I am slowing down on an off ramp. Never did that before.
Sounds like the fan switch has improved things a bit.... but with the plugged external fins on the rad, there is an extra load of heat that isn't gotten rid of.....

also you have some hot days at your location and to have the fan run is quite normal when the bike speed is low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The whole motor is hot as hell. When I first got it, it was never as hot as this. I cant even touch the head covers for more than 1 second without it being too hot. I used to be able to keep my hand on it as long as I wanted. I should get a laser thermometer, curious how hot the heads are
 

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The whole motor is hot as hell. When I first got it, it was never as hot as this. I cant even touch the head covers for more than 1 second without it being too hot. I used to be able to keep my hand on it as long as I wanted. I should get a laser thermometer, curious how hot the heads are
one the Infrared laser thermometers would be a good tool to check things with....

I know that my engine is too hot to hold my hand on for any length of time.......
 
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