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Discussion Starter #1
Ok folks - New here to the VR forums, but not new to bikes. I own a pretty successful bike shop here in Central Maine, so we've got the tools to do most any job.

I picked up a 2001 Volusia VL800 a couple weeks back, with a blown motor. Jugs, pistons, conn rods, case halves and crank all completely destroyed. I managed to find another 800 motor from a local scrapyard for a decent price today, but of course, AFTER I got it back to the shop, I realized the intake boots were different. The old motor had a single carb, but the new motor has 2 carb boots...(fuel injection, I'm sure). The side covers, rocker cases, external parts, etc, all look the same as the original motor.

I've read most all the posts here before asking this question, but if I missed something, don't throttle me too bad...

The heads off the original engine are about all that's salvageable...Does anyone know off the top o' their heads if the older single carb heads are a direct bolt-on for the newer motor? We're not even exactly sure what year it is, I'm guessing 2005 and I can't find anywhere to run the engine numbers to find out what year it is. The cylinder height is the same (3 1/4"), and the head height is the same, as are the rocker cases.

I simply would like to get this baby running, without dropping $1000 for a motor off eBay....

Anybody have any hints, tricks or tips before I pull the heads off the new motor and make it "non-returnable"?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
*EDIT
Old motor has engine code starting with S509-******
New motor has engine code starting with S510-******
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, just found the multiple threads about transplanting a newer motor into an older frame. With these K1-K4 motors being "rare" up here in the Great Wild North, we're gonna attempt to do the swap, using some of the old components from the blown motor (heads,ignition, rotor, stator, etc). The jugs and heads are the same height, so maybe with a little "persuasion", I can come up with a write-up on how to make this happen for the handy wrencher using parts from his original motor, and keep costs down. I've got 3 weeks to make this happen, and a full workload at the shop right now....The wife and kid are away in Florida for the next week, so my only obligations are the 4-legged kids.

I'll post pics and descriptions if we get this moving along.

Like someone else here said, with enough money (I say motivation) anything is possible....LololoL


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COOL!!! Good luck with the rebuild, I am sure a lot of people will appreciate the information. It's only time and money ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
C50 swap into a 01-04 Frame

Well, here goes...Not to sound like a "[email protected]$$hole", but we got it to work. No, it's not a "bolt-in", but it's pretty close. First, I'll make a list of parts that you'll need, then a list of how to make those parts work.

Step 1: Investigate your blown VL800 motor to see what parts are reusable. From what I've been reading, it seems the bottom end is the most volatile, and the number one thing to go south. This usually leaves your heads in good shape.
Step 2: Acquire a fuel injection C50 motor from a local scrapyard, Craigslist, best buddy, enemy, etc. We used what we believe is an '06 model. Dual intake boots on top, for dual throttle bodies.
Step 3: Remove heads, carb intake Y-boot, rotor and neutral indicator/oil pressure switch and harness from your old VL motor.

Rotor from the Fuelie motor - Notice the additional pickup signal tabs on it. The old one from your carb'd motor will only have 4 total - 3 short, and one long


Preparing to remove the heads from the C50


Now, here's where it gets funny...The crank, conn rods, pistons, jugs, rocker cases all have the same part numbers from old carb'd models to new fuelies.
The heads, rotor and neutral switch/oil pressure harness are different.

The cases are different part numbers, but they share the exact same mounting spacing.

Now, let's get down to bidness...Swap the heads over (just like replacing them, nothing special).

Our "special Suzuki tool" to retain the tensioner back to slide the heads up and over. Just a simple piece of flat stock...I'm sure somebody out there has figured out a better solution, but this is what we had at the moment


Removing all the old "Honda/Suzi/Yama-Bond from the rocker cases


We did have a bugger of a time getting the coolant crossover tube to line up and fit, but some persuasion and pure ignorance did the trick.


Swap the rotor over. You must do this or you won't get spark. The pic of the rotor above shows the difference between the wasted spark setup, and the single spark setup. Fuelie's also need more "sensors" on the rotor for additional motor/RPM info.

Swap the neutral/oil harness over. (Also noted in the pic of the rotor above). I'm not exactly sure if this "needs" to be swapped over, we just did it in the beginning, before we swapped rotors because we weren't getting spark. The neutral sensor is different, so it may prevent the engine from running. I wouldn't think so, but we're too far into it now to swap back to the fuelie sensor and try it out.

While the motor's out, do your valve adjustment...again, nothing different than what's in the book for your year (01-04), same specs.

Plenty of room for valve adjustments now


Everything else, cable clutch, clutch basket, all side covers, sidestand switch plug all match up....with "the exception", which can be cured, we just didn't take the time to do it. There's an additional coolant line coming off the water pump, for an additional nipple on the radiator on the fuelies. You can swap out your old water pump (or now might be a good time to replace it, right?) or just cap it off...or, use the better radiator from the fuelie bike if you can snag it too.

Install the motor. No, really...slide 'er into place.

Add oil, coolant, run your lines and cables as normal, feed her the fuel, and fire it up...easy as that. Really. It is easy. The hardest part was lining up the driveshaft...seriously. We did one today in under 12 hours, and that was friggin up a few things along the way that set us back a couple hours (improper cam installation...thanks JD...Lol) I recommend following the book TO THE T when it comes to installing the cams...Hahahaaa. Don't rely on your previous knowledge of cam alignment...

So there, in a peanut shell, is how to do it. If anyone has any questions, or wants proof that she runs, I'll be doing a carb clean, and buttoning things up tomorrow morning. I can get a video for ya.. Peace out, Peeps!! JD
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Didn't get to the carb clean today...got wrapped in other work...

Hoping to get it tomorrow morning before I actually touch anything else...Lol

At the moment, she's sputtering on the rear cylinder...Low throttle, and she cuts out. Pretty sure its just bad gas that's in the tank right now. So I'll drain 'er, and clean the carb and go from there.
Fingers are crossed....


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I'm slightly confused about the engines.
I know earlier models were carbs, then later, FI.
I thought they were all known as VL800's.
I've got an 09. Out of curiosity, what is it I have?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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Good.
I'm glad someone finally did it rather than being told it can't be done.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
No problem - I'm always trying new things, and this one seemed like it would be too easy (which, it kinda was..Lol). We once took a TC Brothers hardtail kit for a CB650 and used it on a CB550 frame...Everyone said it wouldn't work...but the 550's and 650's have the same stamped frame design...It fit right up perfect! We've done some wild-a$$ stuff in our humble little hideaway. Anytime someone says "You can't do that! That's blasphemy!...and impossible!", we grab the cuttoff tools and a welder and proceed to make everything right in the world...Lol.

I'm just hoping this will help someone out in the future...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's running now, but not 100% yet. Got a stuck valve in the rear head. I have a good used replacement on the way, should be here by Friday. As soon as we get the new head on, I'll get a vid of it running.
 

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I'm slightly confused about the engines.
I know earlier models were carbs, then later, FI.
I thought they were all known as VL800's.
I've got an 09. Out of curiosity, what is it I have?
01-04 are called Suzuki Intruder Volusia's, the model desigination is VL800
05 and up are called Suzuki Boulevard C50s, they also carry the model designation VL800
Because all C50s (not Volusia's) are fuel injected the engines (apparently not as much as we thought) are different. The tanks and wiring are drastically different.

Models like the C50T, Volusia Limited, 03 Anniversary, etc, are just minor changes to the same bike. Things like windshield, white wall tires, studded seats, studded saddlebags, cast wheels and different paint/decals. The C50 B.O.S.S. (Blacked-Out Suzuki Special) edition, had black for nearly all of the standard chrome parts, and black cast wheels.
 

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No problem - I'm always trying new things, and this one seemed like it would be too easy (which, it kinda was..Lol). We once took a TC Brothers hardtail kit for a CB650 and used it on a CB550 frame...Everyone said it wouldn't work...but the 550's and 650's have the same stamped frame design...It fit right up perfect! We've done some wild-a$$ stuff in our humble little hideaway. Anytime someone says "You can't do that! That's blasphemy!...and impossible!", we grab the cuttoff tools and a welder and proceed to make everything right in the world...Lol.

I'm just hoping this will help someone out in the future...
VERY COOL that you got it done, I think we fall back on the "It can't be done" answer too quickly. Most of the time the question is "can I swap a FI into a non-FI" and the answer is now "not directly but if you have the skill..... yes"

You sir have proven you have the skill.
 
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Think there's room in that frame for an 87 CBR1000 Hurricane engine?
 
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That's a great write-up! We've known for a long time that this is not a direct swap, engine for engine and this is the first time anybody has really dug in to find the exact differences. The internals are more or less identical, save for the parts which you had to swap over from the old engine to the donor engine. Good job on figuring out how to get the dual spark ignition to work again. This gives people who find themselves in the unenviable position of needing a new engine options. If they're handy with a wrench, it's something that can be done in the space of a few weekends. Well done!
 
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thanx for taking the time to post this w/pics...hope it all comes together at the end.
 

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Looking forward to hearing it roar to life!
 
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