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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bike is rapidly approaching 7,500 miles, and valve adjustment needs to be done. There are a lot of threads on the forum showing valve adjustment and various tools used. Just to quite down my first time valve adjustment anxiety, I would appreciate some feedback on the below:

I believe I have the majority of the tools necessary, with exception of ratcheting and offset wrenches, as well as 4mm square tool.



A) I will use #2 square head screw(s) mounted on some square stock instead of $30 Suzuki tool.
B) ratcheting metric wrenches set - removed. See on P.S.
C) PITTSBURGH - 8 Pc Metric Offset Box Wrench Set - 12-point box end with 60° offset (https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html)


Just in case if I forgot anything, here is the list of tools that I've prepared for valve adjustment job:

1) Feeler gauge set
2) 17 MM socket
3) A couple of socket wrenches and number of metric sockets (8mm and 10mm)
4) Socket wrench extension in various sizes for both 1/4 and 3/8 sockets.
5) A set of metric allen wrenches
4) Spark plug tool (thin walled, deep socket)
5) Long nose pliers (will get a set of needle nose if needed)
6) Shop rags
7) A case of beer
A punching bag (for when the beer runs out)

Thanks!

P.S. removed the ratcheting wrenches: they are way too bulky for the job. Would probably be ok to get a slimmer ratcheting wrench, but I don’t think it is that necessary.
 

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Good luck, I wish I could help but I took mine to mechanic, charged 150. Said that he had to remove radiator to get to one of them? Let us know how it goes. 👍
 

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Where's the 1/4" drive flex sockets; 8mm & 10mm?
You can leave most of the other wrenches in the tool box if using the 1/4" drive with flexes.
Not necessary to remove the radiator or the carb/fuel injection body either.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
150 is a very good price for C50 valve adjustments! It costed me that much to get one tire installed, tire not included.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where's the 1/4" drive flex sockets; 8mm & 10mm?
You can leave most of the other wrenches in the tool box if using the 1/4" drive with flexes.
Not necessary to remove the radiator or the carb/fuel injection body either.
I have one 1/4 flex socket adapter. 8 MM, and 10 mm sockets I have. Sounds like I don't really need to drop another $40 on wrenches... probably just need one offset 8 mm / 10 mm wrench.
That one offset wrench would probably cost as much as the whole set from Harbor Freight.
 

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I have one 1/4 flex socket adapter. 8 MM, and 10 mm sockets I have. Sounds like I don't really need to drop another $40 on wrenches... probably just need one offset 8 mm / 10 mm wrench.
That one offset wrench would probably cost as much as the whole set from Harbor Freight.
That 1/4" universal with a socket will not allow flexibility as the true flex sockets will.
1/4" drive flex sockets are frequently sold as open stock (craftsman), so that 8mm and 10mm can be had separately.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That 1/4" universal with a socket will not allow flexibility as the true flex sockets will.
1/4" drive flex sockets are frequently sold as open stock (craftsman), so that 8mm and 10mm can be had separately.
I wasn't even aware of such sockets existence. Will look into where I can get them. Thank you for the valuable info!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Had a bizarre conversation with local motorcycle shops about valve adjustment...

== SHOP #1, I trusted them do this job (before this call, now I don’t even know):

-ME: Hi, how much do you charge for valve adjustment on ‘08 C50?

-SHOP: We don’t do valve adjustment on bikes older than 2012. I can give you a guy that does it...

-ME: Thanks. What is your ballpark cost on a bike like that?

-SHOP: please hold

-ME: hang up after 15 minutes on hold.



== SHOP #2, I don’t trust this shop to pump air into tires on my bike... called them just to get an idea on the cost.

-ME: Hi, how much do you charge for valve adjustment on ‘08 C50?

-SHOP: We don’t do valve adjustment. (Short pause) let me find out.

-ME: Trying to not laugh into the phone.

-SHOP: it will be about $600... we won’t do valve adjustments now, we would take it when winter starts.

-ME: thank you. Hanging up.


These are two “reputable” shops within one hour ride, and at a reasonable distance where I wouldn’t go bankrupt paying for car service back home.

I guess I’m doing my own valve adjustment...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
150 is a very good price for C50 valve adjustments! It costed me that much to get one tire installed, tire not included.
That's what I thought too......good price. I didnt want the hassel.
Where is your mechanic located? I would love to have such prices in my area...
 

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Had a bizarre conversation with local motorcycle shops about valve adjustment...

== SHOP #1, I trusted them do this job (before this call, now I don’t even know):

-ME: Hi, how much do you charge for valve adjustment on ‘08 C50?

-SHOP: We don’t do valve adjustment on bikes older than 2012. I can give you a guy that does it...

-ME: Thanks. What is your ballpark cost on a bike like that?

-SHOP: please hold

-ME: hang up after 15 minutes on hold.



== SHOP #2, I don’t trust this shop to pump air into tires on my bike... called them just to get an idea on the cost.

-ME: Hi, how much do you charge for valve adjustment on ‘08 C50?

-SHOP: We don’t do valve adjustment. (Short pause) let me find out.

-ME: Trying to not laugh into the phone.

-SHOP: it will be about $600... we won’t do valve adjustments now, we would take it when winter starts.

-ME: thank you. Hanging up.


These are two “reputable” shops within one hour ride, and at a reasonable distance where I wouldn’t go bankrupt paying for car service back home.

I guess I’m doing my own valve adjustment...
Ouch! I'm in El Paso, TX, pretty reasonable here. It's like my mechanic told me, it's not hard doing a valve adjustment it's getting to the valves that's a pain.
 

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Having just fought errr I mean adjusted the valves on the wife's 03, I would add to make sure your feeler gauges are thin enough. I had to trim down mine as they were too wide to slip in the space.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Having just fought errr I mean adjusted the valves on the wife's 03, I would add to make sure your feeler gauges are thin enough. I had to trim down mine as they were too wide to slip in the space.
How did you trim them without distorting the dimensions?

I bought some cheap gauges of eBay (same thing that is available on Amazon) with good reviews. I will check them with a micro meter first and take it from there.
 

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I should have been more specific. The feeler gauges were too wide, so I had to snip the sides. I had a set of small gauges, but, they didn't go smaller than .010, so all I had was the wider ones to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I should have been more specific. The feeler gauges were too wide, so I had to snip the sides. I had a set of small gauges, but, they didn't go smaller than .010, so all I had was the wider ones to work with.
Got that, but what tool/method you used to trim the wide gauges without distorting the gauge, it being a fairly delicate and precise measuring instrument? Did you just use metal sheers or something else?
 

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Search back through these pages for JPaige method. No feeler gauges. Works for me and some others. I use it on other engines too.
 

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As a former boulevard C50 owner i second BullyVarder on the JPaige method. I owned a 2007 Boulevard and used the JPaige method since new and it worked great. Matter of fact i did have the valves checked by my local Suzuki dealer the second time around, as i needed them to check something else out and the tank had to come off anyway. They also seemed familiar with this method:) I was told all the valves were within the proper range and needed no adjustment. . So from then on it was the JPaige method for me :).


Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Question:
Finished with my first valve adjustment. Engine sounds noticeably louder, with pronounced ticking (Literally tick-tick-tick-tick sound) that goes up and down with rpm. Is this normal? I believe it is the “angry sawing machine” sound, but having no frame of reference, just need somebody to confirm.

At 7250 miles, only a few valves were within acceptable specification. Took two tries: first was about 5 hours, and I ended adjusting the front cylinder out of stroke (180’ opposite to requires engine rotation). Bike sounded like a hammer drill, and I’ve shut it down in matter of seconds. Second time I’ve stripped the bike in 30 minutes, checked both cylinders and adjusted the front cylinder into spec within another 20 minutes. I ended up using both methods, verifying adjustment with feeler gauges. Intake valves are now between .004 and 0.005, and exhaust valves adjusted to .008 - .009. I did it this way because the manual says to adjust the bike to .22 mm, which is fractionally smaller than .009 in. Probably won’t make a huge difference, but It was good practice.

By far the most difficult part for me was finding the compression stroke. Aside from that, I didn’t even have to remove throttle body (2008 is injected) or radiator hose clamps. I did have to disconnect metal par valve tube on the rear cylinder to have enough clearance to take off valve covers. All fasteners came off easily and not stripped; some of the electrical connectors gave me grief, but after applying dielectric grease, they come apart and go back together nicely.

First time took longer because I was taking my time, and taking apart a few things I didn’t need to, as well as being extra careful with electrical connections. I was also trying to figure out a way to bend feeler gauges properly (even broke one). Now that I’ve done it, I’m confident this process can be completed in under 2 hours.

While I was “under the hood”, I’ve put new spark plugs; not strictly necessary (previous plugs were just a year old), but bike had V&H exhaust up until 3 month ago, and I wanted to eliminate any potential issues for the future. I also swapped out fuel line (bike had original 11 years old line).

I’ve done an oil change a week earlier (Valvoline 10w-40 fully synthetic, and K&N 138 filter).

I only rode for 20 minutes after valve adjustment (hit traffic and turned back), and aside from noticeably louder ticking, didn’t see any difference. It is too early to say if bike runs different.

All in all, if you can do a valve adjustment on C50, you can probably service anything on this bike. It just becomes the matter of having correct tools and maybe a helping hand sometimes.
 
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