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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am needing hands on help to adjust my valves and I'm not real comfortable doing it on my own. I tried it on my old motorcycle and @#$%ed it all up, took me a few weeks to figure it out. So I am nervous trying it on the much nicer C50

I cant really afford to pay a mechanic right now and its way over due to have them adjusted. I also think it is causing the hard cold start problem that recently started. :blackeye:

Anyway, I am located in Neosho, Mo and am willing to help pay for gas, buy some beer, and/or possibly pay someone a little bit of $. If anyone has experience adjusting the valves and is willing to help me out in the next few weeks PM me.
 

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I'd be glad to help but unfortunately too far away - I'm sure someone else nearby would be glad to lend you a hand. I was nervous about doing my own valves the first time, but if you follow the guidance given on this site with pictures and such, it's not too hard, just putsy, takes a few hours just due to all the stuff you gotta remove and then put back on.
 

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likewise, I'd help (only done it twice though) but im all the way on the east coast.
A tip, so you don't screw up the top dead center marks like i did the first time i did the valve adjustment. stick a long thin screw driver into the spark plug hole. That way you can see the screwdriver go up and down and with the manual know exactly which top dead center you need.
I usually take my time and take a few hours to check and recheck my work.
 

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Sure wish I was closer to give you a hand with that
 

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likewise, I'd help (only done it twice though) but im all the way on the east coast.
A tip, so you don't screw up the top dead center marks like i did the first time i did the valve adjustment. stick a long thin screw driver into the spark plug hole. That way you can see the screwdriver go up and down and with the manual know exactly which top dead center you need.
I usually take my time and take a few hours to check and recheck my work.
Good advice , except I use a drinking straw.
 

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I just screwed the spark plug 2/3 of the way in in the cylinder I was adjusting the valves on and turned the crankshaft "counter-clockwise" until I felt the compression start to build, then shined a light into the inspection hole and watched for the appropriate Top-Dead center mark. (FTD or RTD).
That way you won't get it 180 Degrees off.
 

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I just screwed the spark plug 2/3 of the way in in the cylinder I was adjusting the valves on and turned the crankshaft "counter-clockwise" until I felt the compression start to build, then shined a light into the inspection hole and watched for the appropriate Top-Dead center mark. (FTD or RTD).
That way you won't get it 180 Degrees off.
Some people make a tool for this .... get a foot of small hose, like gas line, wrap electrical tape around one end until it is about the diameter of spark plug threads, then screw it in the spark plug hole. Put a small balloon on the other end of the hose and wrap a rubber band around the neck of the balloon. This will give you a visual cue that you are on the compression stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I have the valve adjustment completed and it defiantly runs better and has better throttle response. I have another question. Before the adjustment I couldn't hear the valves at all, but they are making some noise now. It's not really loud meaning if I'm sitting on the bike I can't hear them over the Cobra exhaust but if I'm down by the engine I can hear them tapping away. Sorry if it's a stupid question but on searching this topic I read conflicting information
 

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Noise is normal. You couldn't hear them before, because they were too tight...
 

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So I have the valve adjustment completed and it defiantly runs better and has better throttle response. I have another question. Before the adjustment I couldn't hear the valves at all, but they are making some noise now. It's not really loud meaning if I'm sitting on the bike I can't hear them over the Cobra exhaust but if I'm down by the engine I can hear them tapping away. Sorry if it's a stupid question but on searching this topic I read conflicting information
Sounds good, wanna do mine next ?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It was actually pretty **** easy once I got past being nervous. Just remember to make sure it's on the compression stroke, aka the intake valves have moved down and back up. It took me longer to take everything apart than it did to actually adjust them.
 

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Mine was a lot quieter as well BEFORE the valve adjustment. I guess maybe they were too tight? I can really hear them ticking now, when I couldn't before. (I had the dealership do them, and I didn't think they were set up right)
 

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Question, how many miles would you put on the bike before adjusting these? I have about 20k on mine if memory serves me and it seems OK, but I cannot hear anything over the pipes and I fear the adjusters failing due to so many posts about it here. Adjusting valves is cake though.

Also, do I need to pull the engine to adjust them?
 

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Question, how many miles would you put on the bike before adjusting these? I have about 20k on mine if memory serves me and it seems OK, but I cannot hear anything over the pipes and I fear the adjusters failing due to so many posts about it here. Adjusting valves is cake though.

Also, do I need to pull the engine to adjust them?
Latest info is 16000 miles.
Used to be about half that but Suzuki changed it recently.
You don't need to pull the motor but it's tough and tight.
My stealership charges extra, (300) to do them on this bike.
 
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