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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm new here and fairly new to bikes. This c50 is my first. I've had it for a couple years without a hiccup over the 6,000 miles I've put on it up until the last ride. Rolling in 5th gear and slowed down to around 30-35mph to take in some scenery, I gassed it. Got some slipping before it took off. Was able to duplicate it. Never had this happen. Is my clutch going out or am I just paranoid and need to shift? Seems like it would bog down and try to die if the clutch was in good shape.
 

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Yeah, that sounds like the clutch wearing. You can try adjusting it first, but replacing the friction plates is a pretty easy job and cost less than $100 if I recall correctly. And yes, downshift. Fifth is way too high for 30-35.
 

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So I'm new here and fairly new to bikes. This c50 is my first. I've had it for a couple years without a hiccup over the 6,000 miles I've put on it up until the last ride. Rolling in 5th gear and slowed down to around 30-35mph to take in some scenery, I gassed it. Got some slipping before it took off. Was able to duplicate it. Never had this happen. Is my clutch going out or am I just paranoid and need to shift? Seems like it would bog down and try to die if the clutch was in good shape.
One thing that is not stated in your description of the problem is the total miles on the bike or is it really only 6000 miles?

It is a pretty standard symptom for a clutch that it will slip only in the higher gears as it gets close to the point of fail.

In fact that is how you test the clutch to see if it is failing.

There is a tutorial description in the help section that will step you through The complete adjustment of the clutch. As was said above, that me either curate if you’ve caught it early enough or it may help for a little while and let you ride until you get the new clutch parts.

Some owners have upgraded to the Barnett clutch. It has a different feel to it that some like And a very few object to the new feel. It is more aggressive in engagement but also more durable
 

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I replaced mine last year with a barnett and love it. Having never done it before, took me about 1 &1/2 hrs after draining the oil. Don't forget new gaskets. Mine came off in one piece but I always replace any used gasket to be safe, some try to reuse ones in good shape.
 

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My only warning is that you make sure you have a torque wrench for the bolts and use it. When I did mine, I sheered off the head of one of the bolts pretty easily.
 

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My only warning is that you make sure you have a torque wrench for the bolts and use it. When I did mine, I sheered off the head of one of the bolts pretty easily.
YES!!!

The torque on the clutch spring bolt is only 7 FtLb/84 InLb.
 

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Also the oil you use is very important
What you should NOT use is any oil that states "energy (or resource) conserving" in that API circle or anyhere on the bottle
 

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Are we doing an oil thread now?

I like to use peanut oil. It smells nice when I'm out for a ride.
 

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The only environmentally responsible choice is to use oil that has been pressed from baby seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the response! I figured it was clutch time. Somebody mentioned miles on the bike. It's just over 25,000. I dont know if it's ever been replaced as I've only had it the last 6,000. As far as adjusting, I'm not one to polish a turd. I've got some winter downtime. I'll guess it's time to order this Barnett clutch and put some fresh canola in it for the spring. Thanks again guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Doing the work doesnt worry me much. I'm pretty competent with a wrench. Just new to bikes. And it's a pretty good excuse to buy a shiney new jack 😁😁😁
 

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A few days ago I read about a bike built for some bacon-producing company. It runs on bio-diesel fuel made from bacon grease. Smells like bacon when you run it. Man, where do I get one?!
 

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On my 2004 I replaced the clutch springs only at about 35000 miles. Had 60,000 on it when I tore up the output shaft of the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just downloaded an owner's manual today. It seems it's due for pretty much everything! Lol brake fluid change, valve clearance inspect/adjust, final drive lube, coolant flush. And the clutch on top of that. Might as well put a fresh set of plugs while I'm at it. PO didnt give have much info on servicing history since he just had it a short time so I'm just going to assume nothing has been done . Thanks for all the replies folks! It's all much appreciated
 

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Yes. You are due for everything. And before you suffer sticker shock for the cost of the job, I just had the 24,000 mile service done on my CTX - 2 new tires, replaced brake fluid for both front and rear brakes (including ABS service), replaced fluid in hydraulic clutch, replaced 4 spark plugs, checked 4 sets of valve clearances, replaced rear drive fluid, replaced air filter AND had them do an oil change. It only set me back a cool $1600, with $800 of it being labor.
 
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