[Foxtail207]

1. Why are there two throttle cables?

2. How is the easiest way to disconnect them on the handle bar area so I can reroute them behind the triple tree? How do I do it?

I installed HD Deuce Risers and the cables are really tight. In a tight right turn the speed increases due to then stretch.

 

[Rizzo]

I just did this for my 2" spacers. I had the tank off for the Stebel install and disonnected the two throttle cables from under the tank and ran them behind the triple tree. I thought it looked easier to disconnect them from under the tank than from the grip. I had to loosen up the ties for the clutch cable where it runs next to the throttle body to make room for removing the throttle cables. There are two cables as one is to open the throttle and one closes it, safety feature I believe.

 

[Boxwrench]

1. you cant push w/ a cable so there hast to be a way to pull the cable back to idle.

2 take open up the box that the start button is on and back off the adjuster nut. and carefully pry them out of the notch when you have some slack.

3: if the re route don't work you need to buy aftrmarket longer cables.

 

[Foxtail207]

1. you cant push w/ a cable so there hast tobe a way to pullthe cable back to idle.

2 take off the bos that the start button is on andback oof the adjuster nut. and carefullpry them out of the notch when you have some slack.

3: if the re route don't work you need to buy aftrmarket longer cables.

You say pry them out.... How are they connected at that connection? Do you take the box apart also? I unscrewed those nuts and extended them some but was afraid to go too far without asking for more information.

 

[Rizzo]

1. you cant push w/ a cable so there hast tobe a way to pullthe cable back to idle.

2 take off the bos that the start button is on andback oof the adjuster nut. and carefullpry them out of the notch when you have some slack.

3: if the re route don't work you need to buy aftrmarket longer cables.

Your way sounds easier than the way I did it. I would have been really upset by not trying it your way if I didn't already have the tank off. Good to know.

 

[Boxwrench]

1. you cant push w/ a cable so there hast tobe a way to pullthe cable back to idle.

2 take off the bos that the start button is on andback oof the adjuster nut. and carefullpry them out of the notch when you have some slack.

3: if the re route don't work you need to buy aftermarket longer cables.

You say pry them out.... How are they connected at that connection? Do you take the box apart also? I unscrewed those nuts and extended them some but was afraid to go too far without asking for more information.

the box has 2 screws. and then it split in half. you will se from there what to do.
there is a tab affixed to end of the cable that sits in a matching notch on the throttle handle. Once you have enough slack you can carefuflly lift/pry it out. did this to put Kury ISO grips on. you then can ubolt the clip holding the 90 degree tubes the cable are in from the switch box.

Ssame w/ clutch. back off the adjuster nut to get slack and is the same.

helps to remeber/ write down how many turns for each you did.

 

[Mort]

The two cables is because one to increase gas and the other to decrease gas. They are both spring loaded at the FI or carb. Bikerboy only runs one cable for a cleaner look on his super custom.

 

[bikerboy]

^ ^ ^ ^

Thanks Mort... yep, I run a single throttle cable, but the reason my builder told me that (most) street legal bikes have both throttle cables (pull open, pull closed) is just in case one cable fails the throttle will not lock in the open position. The "Safety gods" would like to ensure the throttle slams shut just in case you (the rider) is no longer on the bike, this way the bike won't drive off (too far) without a rider.

Hope this helps. By the way, I only have the top throttle cable connected (the pull open).

Ken

 

[C50T2006]

I would think it is incase the return spring fails the other cable could close the throttle.

^ ^ ^ ^

Thanks Mort... yep, I run a single throttle cable, but the reason my builder told me that (most) street legal bikes have both throttle cables (pull open, pull closed) is just in case one cable fails the throttle will not lock in the open position. The "Safety gods" would like to ensure the throttle slams shut just in case you (the rider) is no longer on the bike, this way the bike won't drive off (too far) without a rider.

Hope this helps. By the way, I only have the top throttle cable connected (the pull open).

Ken

 

[Mort]

On an airplane, I would want redundant systems. On a bike, not that important to me. If the spring fails, your hand on the throttle grip should return it to close. I don't normally close my throttle by just letting go of the throttle grip and rely on the spring. I think Bikerboy has the answer, that the only time of real concern is when you fall off your bike and let go of the throttle grip. Most vehicles with this feature is called, "Dead man switch".

 

[chinton]

1. you cant push w/ a cable so there hast tobe a way to pullthe cable back to idle.

2 take off the bos that the start button is on andback oof the adjuster nut. and carefullpry them out of the notch when you have some slack.

3: if the re route don't work you need to buy aftermarket longer cables.

You say pry them out.... How are they connected at that connection? Do you take the box apart also? I unscrewed those nuts and extended them some but was afraid to go too far without asking for more information.

the box has 2 screws. and then it split in half. you will se from there what to do.
there is a tab affixed to end of the cable that sits in a matching notch on the throttle handle. Once you have enough slack you can carefuflly lift/pry it out. did this to put Kury ISO grips on. you then can ubolt the clip holding the 90 degree tubes the cable are in from the switch box.

Ssame w/ clutch. back off the adjuster nut to get slack and is the same.

helps to remeber/ write down how many turns for each you did.

Looking for some clarification/help on this. I installed 2in riser spacers on my 07 and the cables are tight when turning to the right.

I separated the switch housing and disconnected the throttle cables from the grip, but i cant figure out how to get the cables out of the switch housing. it looks like the switch housing has 2 levels, one for the ignition button, and the cables run under that.

the problem that i have is that the screw that appears to be holding the two levels together is super tight and stripping....

 

[chinton]

solved my own problem.

For anyone in the future, you do have to take the center screw (from the bottom of the housing) out to remove the throttle cables. Since mine was stripped and the EZ-outs werent working, I used my dremel and a cut-off wheel to slot the head. I then grabbed the biggest flat head i could find and applied a little torque.

Easy to reroute once you get the cables out.

 

[Aztek2005]

Did the re-route give you the room you needed?


and,


Does anyone know where to buy a set of extended aftermarket throttle cables for the '07 C50 that actually works? Last I heard, they were not available, which doesn't make sense because you can't use most risers without them.

 

[chinton]

Did the re-route give you the room you needed?


and,


Does anyone know where to buy a set of extended aftermarket throttle cables for the '07 C50 that actually works? Last I heard, they were not available, which doesn't make sense because you can't use most risers without them.

yes, I now have the room i needed and then a bit more - the only ones i rerouted were the throttle cables.