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I took off the old crappy saddle bags from my C50 and bought a backrest/luggage rack and had it powder coated black. I had a terrible time finding longer bolts but finally found exactly what I needed. I went to put them on and three went in just fine but the fourth, the rear drivers side, won't for the life of me go through. Best I can tell using a flashlight is somehow the hole in the fender and the hole in the side rail are just ever so slightly off center. No clue how this happened. Any ideas? Only thing I can come up with is to drill it our so the bolt will go through.
 

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Oh, dear. This happens to a lot of us when we remove all 4 bolts at once. The trick is -- don't remove all 4 at once. It allows the fender to flex ever so slightly.

Do not drill. Get a friend to come over and help push/flex the fender until you can thread that 4th bolt. No kidding.
 

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Simple, 10 minute fix.
You need to use 4 longer sized drift punches, or 4 lady slipper line-up/pry bars.....no prying involved.
Even some large post/rail nails will do, just be careful of the business end of the nail.

Slip those drifts into the holes, one at a time, while playing with the items to line up together.
You'll need to roll the punch and wiggle at the same time. After one is lined up, follow with another.
Once all four punches are lining up all of the items to run the bolts through, only pull out one punch, then carefully run the button head bolt into the opening.

Trust me......I've worked in an automotive automatic transmission shop, and R&R'd & rebuilt hundreds upon hundreds of transmissions, and they are significantly more involved than a few MC accessories.
 

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Like PhyscO said but I’ll add to leave all the bolts loose until you have all 4 bolts hand started then tighten them up. Leaving the bolts loose allows for some play while trying to align everything.
 

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This topic is almost as popular/frequent as an oil thread.
Don't make me break out the tin man! ;)
 

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Simple, 10 minute fix.
You need to use 4 longer sized drift punches, or 4 lady slipper line-up/pry bars.....no prying involved.
Even some large post/rail nails will do, just be careful of the business end of the nail.

Slip those drifts into the holes, one at a time, while playing with the items to line up together.
You'll need to roll the punch and wiggle at the same time. After one is lined up, follow with another.
Once all four punches are lining up all of the items to run the bolts through, only pull out one punch, then carefully run the button head bolt into the opening.

Trust me......I've worked in an automotive automatic transmission shop, and R&R'd & rebuilt hundreds upon hundreds of transmissions, and they are significantly more involved than a few MC accessories.
This ^^ sounds ever so much neater than the push-pull-grunt-swear that we went through with Mike's C50.
 

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Sit on the bike, or have a heavy friend sit on the bike.
 

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The steel inner fender support is the problem. The fender is plastic and not the problem. It seems that the steel is the pesky part and has some tolerance latitude that is more and less on different bikes. Something that some of us have done is to run the bolts the other way from the inside out and use acorn nuts. You have to get the right length of bolt with the #8 mm X125 thread pitch with the threads all the way up to the head. The front two the thread nut is welded to the inner fender The rear two a loose nut gets threaded on. It helps to have a lift to get the weight off the rear tire and it easier to work the front bolts through the welded nut of the inner fender if diong the bolt reverse. There can be issues with the tire getting damaged if your bolts installed normally are too long!
If you reverse the bolts it is easy to remove the saddle bags and sissy bar arms without the hassle of the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got it in. After pushing the fender, pulling, sitting on the bike, pushing again, pulling again.....I stopped and thought hmm? Let's try pulling UP on the fender. The bolt slid in like melted butter.

My good friend (IceCreamMan from years past here) said "Don't do it again." I said "Of course I won't ever need to do it again because now I know how to fix it." 😂 Here's a pic. You can see the crappy bags behind it. I'm not putting those worthless things back on. Think I'll just get a roll bag as I never do long trips.

145225
 

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Glad to hear you got it back in finally. Like I said, we all know that problem because we've all done it before. Just remember to never take out all 4 bolts at once. If you want to take the backrest off, take off one side, but the bolts back in, then take off the other side. As long as you do it that way you won't have any issues.
 

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I took off the old crappy saddle bags from my C50 and bought a backrest/luggage rack and had it powder coated black. I had a terrible time finding longer bolts but finally found exactly what I needed. I went to put them on and three went in just fine but the fourth, the rear drivers side, won't for the life of me go through. Best I can tell using a flashlight is somehow the hole in the fender and the hole in the side rail are just ever so slightly off center. No clue how this happened. Any ideas? Only thing I can come up with is to drill it our so the bolt will go through.
The steel inner fender support is the problem. The fender is plastic and not the problem. It seems that the steel is the pesky part and has some tolerance latitude that is more and less on different bikes. Something that some of us have done is to run the bolts the other way from the inside out and use acorn nuts. You have to get the right length of bolt with the #8 mm X125 thread pitch with the threads all the way up to the head. The front two the thread nut is welded to the inner fender The rear two a loose nut gets threaded on. It helps to have a lift to get the weight off the rear tire and it easier to work the front bolts through the welded nut of the inner fender if diong the bolt reverse. There can be issues with the tire getting damaged if your bolts installed normally are too long!
If you reverse the bolts it is easy to remove the saddle bags and sissy bar arms without the hassle of the bolts.
 
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