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What was your original problem for wanting a new motor?

Carbon build-up won't reduce the compression.

If the rings were bad (and causing low compression) you'd get blow-by and lots of oil consumption. You'd notice oil on your air filter or in the air filter housing (if you are using a stock set-up).

The next thing, if you didn't have blow-by but still had low compression would be the valves. Like a burnt valve or bad seating due to wear.

If your cylinders are scored (and they are old skool sleeves, not Nikasil), then a bore to .005 over and over sized pistons are needed. Someone needs to chime in and tell if these are Nikasil or not, I think I read somewhere they are not Nikasil (makes sense since oversized pistons are out there).
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
DR- the reasons I wanted a new motor was 1) 40k on mine, 2) blowing oil out of the airbox, 3) front cylinder compression lower causing performance issues and vibrations.

You said that carbon build up won't affect compression, and I believe you. But if there is enough build up to completely fill the valve reliefs machined into the piston heads, won't that affect performance in some way?

I also have a problem that one shop and one stealership could not diagnose. When the first shop did my first timing chain, when I got it back he had disconnected one of the TPS to make it run. Doesn't make sense. Worked before he got it. FI light always on. And it also blew oil which it never did before. Stealership did second work and couldn't figure out blow by OR FI problem.....$3200 between them.

Now I am rebuilding myself. If cylinder walls are not Nikasil, then I will have machine shop bore them over. I will check the valves for damage or problems as you suggested.
 

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If there is too much buildup on the valves compression could be affected since the air would be able to escape through the gaps at the valves instead of being compressed in the cylinder. It would have to be some pretty heavy buildup to cause that though.

Your buildup is on top of the piston though, so it should not affect compression. If anything it may slightly bump up your compression ratio! That would take a lot of buildup as well though, lol.

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks Wolly. I will do a leak test this weekend to see if I need a valve job. After 40k miles I would sure think so. The only part of the job I am not sure about doing my self is "lapping" them. But I will give it a try anyway. I am ordering new .5 oversize pistons and having a machine shop bore the cylinders. I would like to have the motor be as fresh as I can make it without spending another $2k on it.

Thanks again,
 

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DR- the reasons I wanted a new motor was 1) 40k on mine, 2) blowing oil out of the airbox, 3) front cylinder compression lower causing performance issues and vibrations.

You said that carbon build up won't affect compression, and I believe you. But if there is enough build up to completely fill the valve reliefs machined into the piston heads, won't that affect performance in some way?

I also have a problem that one shop and one stealership could not diagnose. When the first shop did my first timing chain, when I got it back he had disconnected one of the TPS to make it run. Doesn't make sense. Worked before he got it. FI light always on. And it also blew oil which it never did before. Stealership did second work and couldn't figure out blow by OR FI problem.....$3200 between them.

Now I am rebuilding myself. If cylinder walls are not Nikasil, then I will have machine shop bore them over. I will check the valves for damage or problems as you suggested.
You got blow-by. Your rings are worn. You may or may not need to bore over, probably do just to make it as fresh as possible. usually only a bore is needed if there is apparent wear, scoring or when measured it's "barreled". But since youre going to need new pistons, rings, etc, might as well go overbore and get bored. Someone needs to chime in and tell us if they are Nikasil or not, I seem to believe I read somewhere they are not (and probably the last MC on the market without Nikisil). If they are Nikisil and are scored, etc, then you need to get them re-sleeved. I've used "LA Sleeve" a couple times for my motocross bikes, good work, reasonably priced.

Carbon buildup on the pistons will effect (affect?) air flow and valve clearance, but that point is moot now since you are replacing them.

Not too sure about your TPS problem, maybe the TPS itself.If you got 2 TPS (I haven't looked that hard on my bike, I'd think a Boulevard would only have one), try switching them see if the problem follows the sensor or the placement and go from there. TPS can usually be bench tested with an ohmmeter as well.
 

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Thanks Wolly. I will do a leak test this weekend to see if I need a valve job. After 40k miles I would sure think so. The only part of the job I am not sure about doing my self is "lapping" them. But I will give it a try anyway. I am ordering new .5 oversize pistons and having a machine shop bore the cylinders. I would like to have the motor be as fresh as I can make it without spending another $2k on it.

Thanks again,
If your blowing oil into your air box you've already done a leak down test and it failed miserably.

Sounds like your one the right track. Keep us posted. I'd like to know cost etc when it becomes my turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks DR.....overboring will only cost me $55 per cylinder so it seems like a good deal. And the .5 OS pistons aren't that expensive. Plus, the overbore takes me to a whopping 825cc's. I can just feel the power. There are two TPS (primary and secondary) so I guess I will circuit check them when I get this beast running again. At least it's cold and rainy here in Atlanta this weekend....
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
UPATE- Rebuild vs Replace

I have decided to buy a used motor instead of rebuilding mine. Here's why:

1) Replacement motor has 10,xxx miles. Mine has 40,xxx miles. 30,xxx mile newer motor really appeals to me. Price with freight $1,066.

2) Parts price for pistons, gaskets, etc over $350 without any valve replacement.

3) Boring to .5 OS was going to cost $110

4) ebay seller has great reputation and said motor was tested, ran and shifted great, good compression, no leaks or smoke.

5) 14 day money back guarantee on motor.

6) I can part out existing motor parts and recoup easily half of the cost of the new motor including freight.

Hard for me to argue the math here.
 

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Rugguy99,I don't blame you one bit.
If anyone ever needs replating, this shop is only a few miles from me.

Langcourt USA
 

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Good luck. Wth 50k miles amd counting everyday, I'll probably be in the same situation in a couple of years or next week... You never know when these things can blow up. I've taken good care of it and maintain the engine service often. I always wonder though about spending $1000 for a motor as you are doing plus labor for an engine swap for a bike that has no more cash value than $3500?

I love my bike and feel its personal worth is 5 times the cash value, so I guess that will keep me satisfied for awhile. I also realize that riding my bike daily and racking up tens of thousands of miles keeps my other vehicles stationary and in good condition. The money I've saved in fuel alone in the last 4 years or so is staggering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
rvcycleguy- I never said it was a smart decision...but this is about more than money which I am sure you and most owners understand. I have already spent $3200 on it and it still ran like crap. So the plan is replace the motor, part out the old, ride like hell and grin like a bas**rd. Brains have never been my strong suit anyway.
 

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rvcycleguy- I never said it was a smart decision...but this is about more than money which I am sure you and most owners understand. I have already spent $3200 on it and it still ran like crap. So the plan is replace the motor, part out the old, ride like hell and grin like a bas**rd. Brains have never been my strong suit anyway.
I hear ya... With what you've gone through, you gotta keep going and at least get it running again.
 

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I always wonder though about spending $1000 for a motor as you are doing plus labor for an engine swap for a bike that has no more cash value than $3500?
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Personally, I think less about the cash value of a bike (especially if I don't plan to sell it) than about the cost of the miles I'll put on it. If my choice were to spend $1000 on a new motor and ride my bike another 50,000 miles or buy a used bike for $4000 and ride it 50,000 miles, the engine replacement is the winner.
 

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If I may interject, please correct me if I am wrong. I have done my looking into and am currently weighing each and every option because of financial restraints of my choice. Can anyone confirm the validity of the information contained within the statement, " A 2005 Suzuki Boulevard Volusia 800cc is a special or atypical year for the C50 Model Motorcycle. It turns out something about the build of the engine or the frames themselves. Are as such that the 2005 Suzuki Boulevard Volusia 800cc AKA 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50 800cc. The engine being different than other years of production, is not interchangable with like modeled productions of a different year. " I read this in a number of the service manuals and will be looking to confirm what Clymer's Service Manual says as well. I only want confirmation to the point I made earlier about me weighing out the options, mainly because I have been leaning towards the self rebuilding prospect more. I havent done a breakdown/rebuild of a Suzuki yet and wanted to do complete my homework before the real trial. Thanks peoples. L2R&R2L
 

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First of all, welcome.

Second of all, this thread is 9 years old and many of the participants no longer log in here.

Third of all, the underlying engine has not changed since the original VL800 was introduced in 2001.

As you can see from the thread though, the cost of a rebuild can skyrocket very quickly and it is most often more cost effective to simply replace the engine, than rebuild it. If you get a block from 2001-2004, then you will need to swap over the heads and charging system from the old engine to the new one. The 2001-2004 models were single fire ignition and carbeuretted. If you get a block from 2005 and on, they will be plug and play. If you do go the rebuild route, be prepared to do both pistons AND replace the crank journals along with the rod bearings. Restoring factory compression to a worn bottom end is a recipe for another failure.

The decision is of course yours to make, but you need to weigh the fact that the bike is only worth $1500-$1700 which really calls into question whether spending as much as it is worth is a good move or not.
 

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If I may interject, please correct me if I am wrong. I have done my looking into and am currently weighing each and every option because of financial restraints of my choice. Can anyone confirm the validity of the information contained within the statement, " A 2005 Suzuki Boulevard Volusia 800cc is a special or atypical year for the C50 Model Motorcycle. It turns out something about the build of the engine or the frames themselves. Are as such that the 2005 Suzuki Boulevard Volusia 800cc AKA 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50 800cc. The engine being different than other years of production, is not interchangable with like modeled productions of a different year. " I read this in a number of the service manuals and will be looking to confirm what Clymer's Service Manual says as well. I only want confirmation to the point I made earlier about me weighing out the options, mainly because I have been leaning towards the self rebuilding prospect more. I havent done a breakdown/rebuild of a Suzuki yet and wanted to do complete my homework before the real trial. Thanks peoples. L2R&R2L
Welcome from Kennesaw GA!

I got nothing to add to Skrap's sage advice.
 
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