[rugguy99]

I have worked on cars all my life, but this is tricky. I am pulling my 05 C50 engine to replace with a rebuilt one. I have read all the instructions and manuals online I can find but they seem to lump to carbureted and FI models into one. Does anyone know of a "how-to" on pulling an FI engine? I am down to pulling the throttle body and all FI assembly but really would like a step by step if I can find one.

As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks....

 

[Smithy]

I used a Clymer manual and it was pretty easy following their steps.

 

[rugguy99]

Smithy...did you do online manual or hard copy?

 

[472viper]

I've done it, put an '06 engine in an '05 frame.

The very first thing a bought is a Suzuki Service Manual, it was a life saver.

 

[Smithy]

Smithy...did you do online manual or hard copy?

I have a hard copy.

 

[rugguy99]

Got a Clymer and Yanked the Motor

It actually came out fairly easily. I was able to pull it by myself and get it on the ground. I am ordering a used motor from ebay and plan to reinstall next weekend. My guess is the hardest part will be to align the drive and universal while re-installing. A couple of helpers (and beer) should do the trick. I cant wait to ride a smooth running bike again.

 

[t-man403]

My guess is the hardest part will be to align the drive and universal while re-installing. A couple of helpers (and beer) should do the trick.

Bingo!!

Did mine by myself, think I held my tongue just right on the second attempt!

 

[rugguy99]

ebay motor sold before I could buy it this morning. Now the hunt begins again. Anyone know of one laying around?

 

[DrBLVD]

Since you have the motor out, what's wrong with it? Why don't you just rebuild it?
I've haven't done a C50 yet, but rebuilt many motor cycle engines and it's usually cheaper than buying a new one or a used one (that usually needs rebuilding anyways).

 

[rugguy99]

The new parts for a rebuild would cost way more from the stealership than a used motor....at least from what I have seen. The motor I just missed dropped in price from $1000 to $799 before I could buy it. I would bet the pistons alone would cost almost that. If I am wrong I would sure like to know. I already had new timing chains and tensioners installed last year.

 

[Smithy]

I'm surprised there's no engines on eBay right now. There are usually several, so it shouldn't be too long before one pops up. The other option, which I did, was to buy an entire salvage bike. It's only a few hundred dollars more than buying just the engine, and you can more than make up the difference by selling the other excess parts.

 

[rugguy99]

Smithy....where did you find salvaged bikes?

 

[DrBLVD]

Don't buy from the stealership. Buy from BikeBandit, or lots of online parts dealers.
You already have the new timing gears, just add new pistons, rings, wrist pins, maybe crank bearings (if these engines even have sleeve types, if bearing type no need to change). Buy new valves and lap the seals. It'll take you a weekend, cost less and you'll feel so much better for doing it yourself.

 

[rugguy99]

OK....I'll go through the Clymer and see if I think it's something I can take on. I thought that you had to do all sorts of honing, boring and regrinding when you did the work you described. I sure don't want to invest the time and money, stick the motor back in and have it run like crap. But I will check it out thanks.

 

[DrBLVD]

Yeah, by all means check it out. Like I said, I have not worked on a C50 motor yet, but most MC engines have Nikasil cylinders and there is no honing, boring, etc. Just scuff them up to remove the glaze and put in the new pistons/rings.

Even if they are old skool cylinders, and not damaged, a slight honing is all that is needed.

Pop your heads off and inspect your cylinders, then make your decision. Even if they are bad you could always just buy new cylinders too, or send them out to be re-sleeved, etc.

Lots of options rather than buying a used engine and someone else's nightmare.

 

[Smithy]

Smithy....where did you find salvaged bikes?

I got mine from www.copart.com. If you go that route, look very carefully at their list of fees and the methods of payments they accept. It will cost you a lot more than what they call the sale price, but you still should be able to get a decent deal if you're patient (and a little bit lucky).

 

[rifraz]

A rebuild isn't to bad to do. Mine was a combination of used motor and part rebuild. I bought an 06 c50 with a bad motor. He had bought a motor to go in it but it was an 03 volusia motor. Used the vol motor and swapped the c50 heads and top end onto it. Nothing major. Just time consuming.

 

[wiseguydave]

The new parts for a rebuild would cost way more from the stealership than a used motor....at least from what I have seen. The motor I just missed dropped in price from $1000 to $799 before I could buy it. I would bet the pistons alone would cost almost that. If I am wrong I would sure like to know. I already had new timing chains and tensioners installed last year.

I had been watching that one as well. Saw the price drop but they never did say how many miles were on it so I wasn't about to bid on it.

 

[rugguy99]

Decided to Rebuild

40,000 miles.

OK....I pulled the heads and jugs off and need to ask a few questions:

1) Both pistons and plugs have a lot of carbon build up. The front far more than the rear. As you can see in the photos, the build-up fills the indentations for the valves completely. The front compression was about 20-25% less than the rear. Can that carbon build-up kill compression and cause the bike to run poorly? It was also blowing a lot of oil out of the air box (but no blue smoke out of the pipes though).

2) The connecting rods have a small amount of left-to-right play in them. Is this normal?

3) When I replace the pistons and rings should I do a valve job at the same time?

4)Being as these cylinder walls are lined, do I just buy the stock pistons? I see that there are .005 oversize pistons for sale.

5) Is there any reason to crack the case? I had both timing chains and tensioners replaced less than a year ago and had virtually no bottom-end noise.

6) For some reason I can't get the alternator cover off. All the bolts are removed, but when I gently pry the case from the motor it seems to "spring" back as if something was still holding it. Any ideas?

7) Is there anything else I should do while I have it out and apart?

As always, thanks to the VR Community for any and all help.

 

[rugguy99]

Smithy, I registered with a salvage site and received three responses.....all with very low mileage and all withing $50 of each other.....about $1400. I also signed up with that site you suggested and will see how that goes. But for now, I have decided to try a rebuild on my own. I already have $3200 in two timing chains and tensioners (two different shops...learned that lesson) and will try it myself....I couldn't do any worse.

Thanks for the suggestions.