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I'm planning on rejetting tomorrow and have the motorcyclecarbs.com kit. I was reading the instructions on the rusks and everything seems clear until the steps after you add your main jet and pilot jet. What is the purpose of removing the vacuum slide and the other steps? Any explanations or help is appreciated. I'm attempting this tomorrow
 

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I was about to reply this afternoon and decided I'm not expert enough, but here goes:

I didn't understand about the slide with the extra washers either so I called Robert at Motorcycle Carbs. He said something about it giving a richer mixture. I thought that was what the jets do, but evidently this is part of the program.

So, yes. Be sure you do this step. If you don't put both spacers on, you'll be too lean.
 

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Jerry should be home soon and he just rejetted with that kit not too long ago. When he gets here I'll ask him and post his answer. Lord knows HE won't sign on and do it! :lol:
 

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Ok, here it is. So Chris was correct. Here's how it works. The main jet and pilot jet have a larger diameter to allow more fuel. The needle that's on the end of the slide goes in the main jet and is tapered. The further the needle is in the main jet the less fuel. As the throttle is increased the needle is pulled further out of the main jet and allows more fuel. The main jet controls the maximum amount of fuel at full throttle. The needle controls the amount of fuel between idle and full throttle. The washers are there to control the position of the needle to the vacuum slide. So the purpose of removing the vacuum slide is to install the washers. This adjusts the position of the needle in relationship to the vacuum slide, allowing the correct amount of fuel. I hope this makes it clearer. (cause I have no idea what he's talking about! lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Born2Bwild. It makes sense now. I am gonna give it a try tomorrow hopefully I'm not gonna have a mechanically inept day :roll:
 

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Jerry says to tell you the screws that Briman warns of having problems with....be prepared, they're a pain in the butt! Small vice grips will get them off. If you need help or have any questions when you're doing it, PM me and I'll give you our phone number.
 

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Those screws are very hard to get out... luckily Robert includes replacements in the kit. Get them off with pliers as b2b said.

NJ10
 

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I posted this a while back. The gist of it is that the stock main jet needle isn't a straight taper. It has a belly in it right in the center ,which ordinarily will lean out the mid-range running . ... So when you add washers to the stock needle jet holder you are effectively repositioning the taper further up and out of the mixed fuels way so the jet delivers a richer mixture at mid range. .. This trick works on any emissions controlled bike made since the 80's . Harley wrenches have also been known to drill out the vacuum passage in the slide to pull more vacuum more quickly, raise the slide higher- faster, to avoid a lean spot in an otherwise stock carburetor . I wouldn't recommend doing this to the plastic slide in the Volusia , just passing the info on for education. Some might be tempted to file the stock volusia taper to remove the belly -DON'T ! the needle is made of anodized aluminum . the anodizing hardens the surface of the needle against wear. removing the coating lets the needle wear faster . The dynajet needle is straight tapered and made of hard steel so the brass jet will wear faster . in the end its a wash neither kit has an advantage in performance . Price however is another matter . I have the flexibility to try a non stock aircleaner if i want or a set of straight pipes if i think that would be good , as the dynajet kit has a surplus of jets to try and fiddle in . I took a very conservative setting with my debaffled 03 . A 128 mainjet , stock idle jet. stock aircleaner ,dynajet tapered needle. If I chose K/n filter and aftermarket pipes I could go as large as 155 mainjet. .. I get about 41/44 mpg with my setup , all day long . About like I got stock . If i went to 155 main and opened up everything , I think my mpg would drop to the mid 30s. some one else has probably got the experience and numbers on that . As to the screws , I had to use vicegrips on only one of them , the hardest one to fit a vicegrips on . I have one of those 4 in one screw drivers . Its fairly new and the philips bit wasnt chewed up , turned two screws out no trouble. My harley riding friend says that when these carbs are assembled , a machine screws the the screws into predrilled but untapped holes. The screws do the actual thread cutting , and that is why they are all so tight new.
 

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I rejetted 2 weekends ago using MCcarbs kit.
Use a good pair of needlenose vice grips and you can get those screws broken free. The one on the bottom in the middle was toughest, it had two small raised ribs beside it, making it difficult to get ahold of the head with the vise grips.
I only added one shim to the needle valve assembly as instructed on the phone when I ordered the kit..........even though they shipped two.
I was under the impression that it was an extra in case I lost one of the little boogers. Like the extra O ring that was included.
Just remember to stuff a rag in your intake while working on the carb. I would have dropped that little O ring in there if I hadnt.
 
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