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Hi,
I follewed the 'matrix" last year when I install a new exahust and k&n filter and the bike run perfect (for me) and I get about 43 mpg.
Yhank you alot for the info.

Davide
 

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When I purchased my bike I already had Vance and Hines pipes. I didn't think the carb had been rejetted since my exhaust was yellowed. I went naked on my bike with a unifilter. When I cracked my carb open, I found it had already been jetted with a 130 main jet. I ended up going with the 155 main jet.

Based on the matrix I followed this:
Aftermarket or stock pipes (baffles or debaffled) & Uni filter or K&N (airbox mounted):
150 or 155 main, 37.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

I did not change the pilot jet. Based on dynojet specs, the pilot jet does not play a major part in the power.



I took it out for only a little bit because of the cold. It seemed to run like a bat out of ****. Ended up pulling the baffles to see how it sounded. Now it's one rude SOB. Very pleased :twisted:
 

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Aftermarket or stock pipes (baffles or debaffled) & Uni filter or K&N (airbox mounted):
150 or 155 main, 37.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Im at 600-700 sea level and i don't have a working choke. Anything I should change?
 

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Simple terms it allows more fuel for the correct air/mixture to run a carbed bike properly. If you change the amount of air in, air intake change, you will need more fuel, bigger jets to allow more fuel to mix with the new amount of air.
 

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help please

hello any help would be amazing so in doing my jet kit the back plate for my carb cracked and wondering what you would call it and if anyone has any insight on where to get it( ya i cracked it while tighting the mixture screw like a dumba**)
 

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Rise of the zombie thread!

Working on my currently stock 2003 Volusia, I want to rejet it for a bit more oomf. Based on the matrix, I'd do the following:

Aftermarket or stock pipes (baffles or debaffled) & Uni filter or K&N (airbox mounted):
150 or 155 main, 37.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Questions about it:

1. Elsewhere on this forum I keep reading about how the K&N airbox filter is bad because it doesn't filter air very well/lets in too much dust. Are there alternatives? Is this still a concern in 2019?

2. If the K&N SU8001 is acceptable, then why are Amazon reviews saying that it doesn't fit into the Volusia airbox (but does for the C50)? Should I worry about this?

3. It seems based on the matrix that the filter + jet configuration has a lot more to do with the performance than the pipes. Why is that? I always see people starting with upgrading the pipes first, but it seems that I can spend $55 on a jet kit + $45 on a filter and get all the gains.

4. How much messing around should I expect with a filter + rejet? Like, do I just put in a 155 main, needle, and pilot, then do the idle mix and idle speed screws and I'm good to go, or is this a multi-week project where I'll be spending hours and hours taking the bike apart, rejetting, putting it together, test riding, etc?

5. Will I need to dyno the bike before/after?

Thanks!
 

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K&N filters still do a poor job of filtering the incoming air. That hasn't changed. Going through the headache of pulling the carb, swapping the intake and monkeying with the pipes will not you a whopping 4hp. That's it. There is no hidden horsepower lurking in the engine, waiting to be unleashed. You will also spend a lot of time trying to get it to run just right.
 

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K&N filters still do a poor job of filtering the incoming air. That hasn't changed. Going through the headache of pulling the carb, swapping the intake and monkeying with the pipes will not you a whopping 4hp. That's it. There is no hidden horsepower lurking in the engine, waiting to be unleashed. You will also spend a lot of time trying to get it to run just right.
So swapping the air filter is a quick job, not too worried about that. I am definitely more worried about how many times it takes to get the right jets dialed in, and especially if it's not going to be possible to dial it in correctly for all RPM ranges at all.

As for the an extra 4hp, that depends on how it's distributed. 4hp is 8-9% of the power of this bike. DJ Drive drops the RPM by 14 percent and people say that makes a huge difference. Of course DJ Drive does it for all RPM and speed ranges, and I have no idea what this will do. But if I can get an 8% bump in power in say the 2500-3500 rpm range, I'll take it because that would mean similar improvements to drivability. If it's all going to just be top end power, then eh. At WOT this bike is fast enough for me, I just don't like driving it at WOT.

Where does the K&N filter not being good at actually filtering come from? I keep seeing it repeated, but I don't understand why they are still in business if their filters don't work. Is it a Volusia-specific thing or are all their filters bad? Are the UNI filters better?

Lastly, if this is all for naught, why do people keep attempting it?
 

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Just my 2 cents....I run KN filter on my 5.9 l diesel...like it. I don't run. K&N on my motorcycle I just run regular air filters but not because I dont think they are good. Here's where my two cents comes in. I love my C50 for what it is. A great bike for back roads....running 60-65 mph max and no passenger. If I were needing to run with a passenger or speed in excess of 65 or both, I would get a different bike made for that. I'm not into rejetting, cuz I dont have the knowledge and not sure I want to become an expert at that, hard enough messing with my ktm200 2 stroke. Good luck and have fun.
 

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It comes from people who used them and discovered the oily dirty residue in their throttle body as a result.

People keep adding all sorts of aftermarket doo dads to their bike because they think it will make a difference. The vl800 looks like a bigger bike, so they want to have it perform like one. So they spend thousands on performance upgrades, and all set the same disappointing results.

For all your effort, that "massive" gain of 9 % more power doesn't show up anywhere when you ride the bike. You get a little snappier throttle response, but it won't accelerate any faster, nor will it gain any top speed. All you really end up doing is wasting thousands of dollars converting gasoline into noise at a faster rate.

There is nothing short of adding a turbo charger or nos to the bike that is going to make it perform any better. There is no replacement for displacement.
 

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It comes from people who used them and discovered the oily dirty residue in their throttle body as a result.

People keep adding all sorts of aftermarket doo dads to their bike because they think it will make a difference. The vl800 looks like a bigger bike, so they want to have it perform like one. So they spend thousands on performance upgrades, and all set the same disappointing results.

For all your effort, that "massive" gain of 9 % more power doesn't show up anywhere when you ride the bike. You get a little snappier throttle response, but it won't accelerate any faster, nor will it gain any top speed. All you really end up doing is wasting thousands of dollars converting gasoline into noise at a faster rate.

There is nothing short of adding a turbo charger or nos to the bike that is going to make it perform any better. There is no replacement for displacement.
That pretty much sums it up!
 
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