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There used to be a thread on the VOL that ran about 80 pages and covered just about everything you can think of related to rejetting a Volusia. The thread was started by BriMan who is also a member of VR. The best part was a rejetting matrix BriMan put together over time with inputs from various people who had rejetted their carb given various setups. I was lucky enough to have printed out the thread before VOL went down. With BriMan's permission I am re-posting the matrix here.

Stock pipes (baffles or debaffled) & stock airbox:
128 or 130 main, 30 or 32.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Aftermarket pipes (baffles or debaffled):
132 main, 32.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Aftermarket or stock pipes (baffles or debaffled) & Uni filter or K&N (airbox mounted):
150 or 155 main, 37.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Aftermarket or stock pipes (baffles or debaffled) & K&N (carb mount):
155 or 160 main jet, 40 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Aftermarket or stock pipes and Hypercharger airkit:
142 main jet, 45 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle (for Thunder kit) on 3rd notch (Thunder says 2nd notch, but no one has had this work well), mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns, plugged air jet. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

Add the How To (Rejet Carb) from BriMan's website www.therusks.com and you are in business.

This should cover the bases except for the Thunder air kit. I am looking for the posts that had those settings.

Mikuni/DynoJet Size Comparison Chart

Left side is Mikuni, right side is Dynojet

140.0=149.3
142.5=152.0
145.0=154.7
147.5=157.3
150.0=160.0
152.5=162.7
155.0=165.3
157.5=168.0
160.0=170.7
162.5=173.3
165.0=176.0
167.5=178.7
170.0=181.3
175.0=186.7
177.5=189.3
180.0=192.0
182.5=194.7
185.0=197.3
187.5=200.0
190.0=202.7

Parts:
Dynojet rejet kit 3195-002: Has main jets from 130 up to 160 and a new tapered needle.
https://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/xcart/customer/search.php?substring=3195

Pilot jets - motorcyclecarbs.com part # N224.103:
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/N224-103-30-Mikuni-Pilot-Jet

Filters:
K&N SU8001 (OEM airbox):
https://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/xcart/customer/search.php?substing=su8001

UNI - 4245ST:
https://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=18700&cat=&page=1

Oneida Suzuki carries all but the pilot jets which motorcyclecarbs.com carries.

Note: Motorcyclecarbs.com has a rejet "kit" they have put together using the stock needle, with new main & pilot jet. Several members have done this and some are having problems dialing it in. They have no other jets to play with to fine tune and the stock needle makes the bikes less responsive in the mid-range. My recommendation is to use the dyno kit and buy a pilot or two. The benefits outweigh the cost savings and you have the jets on hand to fine tune your setup. [HuntsvilleAL note - I used to motorcyclecarbs.com kit and it worked just fine. The stock needle is re-used with shims. However, using this kit worked fine for me because I had this matrix. Without it I would have been toast.]
 

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QUOTE:
Left side is Mikuni, right side is Dynojet

140.0=149.3
142.5=152.0
145.0=154.7
147.5=157.3
150.0=160.0
152.5=162.7
155.0=165.3
157.5=168.0
160.0=170.7
162.5=173.3
165.0=176.0
167.5=178.7
170.0=181.3
175.0=186.7
177.5=189.3
180.0=192.0
182.5=194.7
185.0=197.3
187.5=200.0
190.0=202.7
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you sure these values aren't reversed? They look reversed to me!
 

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They look reversed to me too. maybe we are both wrong. What do brimans number's for the jets represent- The Mikuni or Dyno jet #'s? I assumed the dynojet's, because that is what kit he is referring to and the numbers would be way off otherwise. The numbers in his matrix seem to reflect the dynojet jets, but they seem to jive with the supposed Mikuni numbers on the left of the matrix. I noticed this when I rejetted, but just threw a 155 dyno main and 35 pilot 2.5 turns with uni and debaffled. Runs great, so no concerns, but I am getting VH straightshots soon and may need to make minor adjustments, so I would like to know the deal.
 

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OOPS, I"M WRONG. Got it mixed up in my head. The matrix looks right. Must be that time change thing screwing me all up, causing a loss of sleep and concentration. :lol: :lol:
 

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IMHO, the conversions don't look right to me at all either way you compare the columns.

Motorcycle Carbs apparently uses the Mikuni jets. They told me 35/150 or 35/152.5 for stock pipes and K&N. The Dynojet Stage 1 kit for the VOL. shows jets from 126 to 155 and recommends changing to the 150 for a stock exhaust and a K&N and 155 for K&N and aftermarket exhausts. Dynojet does not recommend or provide a primary jet in their kits at all and I have not been able to find a Dynojet cross reference for this???.

I have already spoken to 2 shops who have done this many, many times and they don't normally change anything but the main jets either.

So in the Briman matrix are these Dynojet, Mikuni or a combination? Can someone clarify this for me please.
 

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http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/61/96/

I originally posted the DJ/Mikuni chart in the rejet guide a couple years back when this was on the old site. I picked it up from a conversion calc number I had found while digging for info on mikuni vs DJ. I found this matrix on another site which compares mik to DJ and highlights the sizes available. I am running a 155 Mikuni main jet with a 37.5 pilot on my 2001 vol with an on carb K&N, naked jugs and Cobra slash cuts. My response flattens out a bit from 3/4 to full throttle making me think I am running a bit rich (makes sense, would be close to a DJ 165). I tried the DJ 155 on my bike and it ran very lean with the throttle wide open, which makes me think the K&N breaths a bit better than the uni. I am still looking for a mikuni 150 or a DJ160 to try in this bike. For now she doesn't get to come out and play (damn you winter).
 

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That's what is confusing me. The Briman site suggests for Aftermarket or stock pipes (baffles or debaffled) & Uni filter or K&N (airbox mounted):
150 or 155 main, 37.5 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle on 3rd notch, mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

That suggests the 150 or 155 is a Dynojet main and a Mikuni pilot jet.
Motorcycle carbs suggested 150 or 152.5 main and 35 pilot and these are both Mikuni. The 152.5 is not even available so the next up would be a 155 Mikuni main which is the same number as the Dynojet kit recommendation???. The Dynojet instructions don't even mention changing the pilot at all.

It just does not fit with the conversions. A 152.5 Mikuni would be equal to a 162 Dynojet on the conversion chart shown. It just does not work even if the chart is reversed.

I would just like to confirm that the Briman suggestions are Dynojet mains and Mikuni pilot jets. I would be happy to work with that.
 

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All Briman mains reccomendations are Dynojet sizes. In the orignal boards he had posted that his reccomendations were in DJ sizes because the DJ kit is what everyone had.

I have decided to try the thunder air rejet kit with my setup to see how it works. If that works out I will post details on the K&N on carb setup with the thunder air stage III jetting. If it works as well as I hope I will drop the bike on my friendly neighborhood dyno and post the results. Cash (or weather) won't be available for those for another month or two. Here's hoping :)
 

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That's interesting Mr. Brill. Thanks.

The bottom line is that I will just have to try it and play with it. This morning I talked to a very good wrench who suggested a Suzuki jet kit but I can't find that here locally. He apparently used different valve springs on an '03 Vol with jetting, pipes and a K&N and had incredible results. He also said that he has seen excellent results from the carb mounted UNI filters too. As he said, you have to do a little experimentation but it's nice to at least have a starting point.
 

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I found another conversion chart that indicates that the Mikuni to Dynojet main jet sizes on the chart are correct. Mikuni on the left, Dyno on the right.

I submit my humble apology to those who took the extra effort to post them.
 

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I printed the Matrix out when the VOL was up and running. I checked this posting against what I printed out, they are the same. As I recall this matrix made life a lot easier for a great many people. I am pretty sure the info is correct! Briman was always very thorough. I really miss the VOL.
 

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Finally got the jetting done to the point where she feels right.

Carb mount K&N
Cobra Slashcuts
45 pilot
140 main
the "not so tapered" version of the Dynojet needle
blocked air jet
2.5 turns on the mix screw
no o-ring installed (oops)

Great torque on the low end, snappy throttle response and good acceleration through the whole throttle. Unfortunately, I kicked the weld off the pivot on the shifter while flying through the gears getting on the freeway, so I will need to wait until next week to get her welded up before I can get to the local Dyno. (I can tell you I can start from a stop sign in 5th with this jetting :roll: ) I will let you all know how she does then.

by the way... if any of you are in NE Ohio, are thinking about rejetting and would like some help... PM me. I have gotten this down to a one beer job now :twisted:

bill
 

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What is this " "not so tapered" version of the Dynojet needle" that you speak of?
 

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This may help, or this may further confuse the Dynojet vs. Mikuni issue, as well as the "less tapered" issue.

I rejetted a few weeks ago, and have had problems with reduced MPG. I wondered if I got the wrong jets. So I've been e-mailing the guy from MotorcycleCarbs. Here's the pertinent info for me--I run stock pipes (not drilled or debaffled) and a K&N in the football:
---
How many shims did you use on the needle? You should be using only the one additional we sent.

The jets should also be a 35/140 If you send the 150 back and it is not damaged in any way I can trade you evenly.
If it has bent ears from screwdriver torque you will need to purchase one of these.
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/MIKUNI_MAIN_JET_N102_221_140__P5541.cfm

Sorry for any problems this may have created.

We have just recently found out that the jetting specs we build from were
for using DynoJet Jets, but we were using Mikuni and the numbering systems are different.
---
So I'm going to order this new jet (its only $2.95) and just install that one. From the picture, its a lot less tapered, so that may be what MrBill is referring to.

I also asked about the shim--there was one on there already, so should we have installed the extra, or replaced the original with the one that came from the kit, etc.
 

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pbryon said:
This may help, or this may further confuse the Dynojet vs. Mikuni issue, as well as the "less tapered" issue.

I rejetted a few weeks ago, and have had problems with reduced MPG. I wondered if I got the wrong jets. So I've been e-mailing the guy from MotorcycleCarbs. Here's the pertinent info for me--I run stock pipes (not drilled or debaffled) and a K&N in the football:
---
How many shims did you use on the needle? You should be using only the one additional we sent.

The jets should also be a 35/140 If you send the 150 back and it is not damaged in any way I can trade you evenly.
If it has bent ears from screwdriver torque you will need to purchase one of these.
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/MIKUNI_MAIN_JET_N102_221_140__P5541.cfm

Sorry for any problems this may have created.

We have just recently found out that the jetting specs we build from were
for using DynoJet Jets, but we were using Mikuni and the numbering systems are different.
---
So I'm going to order this new jet (its only $2.95) and just install that one. From the picture, its a lot less tapered, so that may be what MrBill is referring to.

I also asked about the shim--there was one on there already, so should we have installed the extra, or replaced the original with the one that came from the kit, etc.
On the stock needle there is a washer held in place with a "clip". Slide the new shim washer on to the long end of the needle and up to the one on there now. This way the needle will sit higher when inserted back into the carb (allowing more flow). If there are any other washers on the needle they would be from a previous rejet and they should be removed.
 

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quick question in the dynojet kit is does not suggest to change out the pilot jet. are you guys suggesting that they 37.5 pilot jet would be a better match then the stock one (which teh kit says nothing about) for a box mounted K&N w/ aftermarket pipes?

just trying to make sure i understand this carb thing.

thanks
Lunchbucket
 

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just finishing up putting the carb together after the rejet and have a question. the Dynojet kit suggests 3.5 turns but everyone on here suggests 2.5-3 why the difference?? i did not change the pilot jet as the dynojet kit instructions said you didnt' have to and i didn't have one. i can get one later on if need be would this make any difference??

thanks
Lunchbucket
 

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Lunchbucket said:
just finishing up putting the carb together after the rejet and have a question. the Dynojet kit suggests 3.5 turns but everyone on here suggests 2.5-3 why the difference?? i did not change the pilot jet as the dynojet kit instructions said you didnt' have to and i didn't have one. i can get one later on if need be would this make any difference??

thanks
Lunchbucket
The numbers you find here are a starting point based on the experience of many people. Your riding style, weather, altitude, all factor in to the exact setting that "feels" best for you. Most people would recommend changing out the pilot, if you can get one you can try it to see what you think. Without putting your bike on a dyno it ends up being about how it feels to you. Now that you've been in the carb you know it isn't that bad to do the tweaking that gives you the right feel.
 
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thanks volusia.

the pilot will give easier starts and warm ups? plus better response in the low range RPM??

i only drove it yesterday for 15min or so. it was 30's out and wanted to get home ASAP from my buddies where i did the work and put the pipes on so didn't get a good idea of how it ran.

i can get a pilot jet easy and since i "been in there" it shouldn't be too bad.

thanks
Lunchbucket
 
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