Yes the washers are in addition to whats there. You might have 1 big one or 2 little ones.

Ron I used to work for American Med. Serv. lived in PB for 17 years....Bro I miss that place.....


larlev

 

When I rejeted I replaced the two washers on the needle with the ones in the motorcyclecarbs kit, am I to run two washers on both sides. The bike runs fine.

Kilowatt :duh:

 

When I rejeted I replaced the two washers on the needle with the ones in the motorcyclecarbs kit, am I to run two washers on both sides. The bike runs fine.



Kilowatt :duh:

Your supposed to add the washers given in the kit to the 1 or 2 you already have. I had 2 little ones, some people have had 1 thicker one....

As far as having washers on both sides...I am not sure what you mean...on both sides of what?


larlev

 

When I rejeted I replaced the two washers on the needle with the ones in the motorcyclecarbs kit, am I to run two washers on both sides. The bike runs fine.



Kilowatt :duh:

Your supposed to add the washers given in the kit to the 1 or 2 you already have. I had 2 little ones, some people have had 1 thicker one....

As far as having washers on both sides...I am not sure what you mean...on both sides of what?
If you look on BriMans rejet instructions it shows the finished needle with the washers and the spring(2 metal, 1 plastic spacer and 1 spring.It is on Briman list as rejet carb date 1-9-2005

Kilowatt


larlev

 

Brimans pic is of a dynojet needle...

I'm 99.9% sure you do not remove the existing washers...you add the shims in the kit to the existing ones....The reason they send you extra washers(shims) is because you need the extra spacing on the needle.

Hell if it runs fine.....

larlev

 

What I did was replace the one on the stock one with the new ones in the kit. I will call Robert at Motorcyclecarbs tomorrow and see what he says. I will let you know what I find out. kilowatt

 

Brimans pic is of a dynojet needle...

I'm 99.9% sure you do not remove the existing washers...you add the shims in the kit to the existing ones....The reason they send you extra washers(shims) is because you need the extra spacing on the needle.

Hell if it runs fine.....

larlev

txvol I talked to Robert today he said my 2005 stock would have one on it ,but to put the two new ones with it so three is right.Thanks
KILOWATT

 

Thanks, you've all been a big help. Gonna do it today!

 

txvol I talked to Robert today he said my 2005 stock would have one on it ,but to put the two new ones with it so three is right.Thanks
KILOWATT

??? I thought the 2005s were FI???

Jim

 

txvol I talked to Robert today he said my 2005 stock would have one on it ,but to put the two new ones with it so three is right.Thanks
KILOWATT

??? I thought the 2005s were FI???

Jim

They are, thats why they are so hard to rejet!!!!!!

 

txvol I talked to Robert today he said my 2005 stock would have one on it ,but to put the two new ones with it so three is right.Thanks
KILOWATT

??? I thought the 2005s were FI???

Jim

They are, thats why they are so hard to rejet!!!!!!

your RIGHT I TYPED THE WRONG DATE 2004

KILOWATT :whine:

 

Right on.....you kinda had me confused for a minute....I thought I was telling you right, but I started to second guess myself.

So are you going to take it apart again or leave it?

larlev

 

txvol When I came home from work the temp was 70 so I went ahead and put the two washers on the needle. Boy did that make a difference the low end came alive THANKS.

Kilowatt :applause: :biglaugh:

 

Hey Bro anytime....

larlev

 

I haven't done a MCCarbs kit before, but since you aren't getting a new needle, you would use the washes on the bottom (pointy end) in addition to waht is there. This is called shimming the needle.

Now, the thin ones are about .5mm and the thick one is 1mm. The thick one lifts the needle 1 "notch", about equal to the dyno needle's 3rd notch.

If you notice the midrange of the throttle bogging down after shimming, go with one of the thin washers instead of hte thick one, this puts you at 2.5 "notches", in between stock and fully shimmed.

Also, the stock needle doesn't taper as quickly to a point as the dyno needle, so response isn't going to be quite as fast as with the dyno needle, but you should notice the bike pullig harder through all of the throttle.

 

All rejetted, and ready to go. Since I had the tank off. I added a horn, changed the antifreeze, and the oil. It is suppose to rain for about a week, can't wait to try it out.
Thanks!

 

After reading the rejet info and forums for a couple years I decided to try the rejet... after 3 pairs of pliers, 4 screw drivers, an extractor drill bit, a hack saw and a big flat head screw driver I got the thing apart... from there, piece of cake. 8)

I am glad that I've got access to all the forum information you all provide because the kits from mccarbs.com come with nothing. :evil:

 

Well, TxVol helped me out with my rejet this weekend and I must say, it's the best 20 bucks I've ever spent(except maybe for that one fun-filled night down in "Boystown" Mexico!). I was surprised just how easy it was. We were putting the shim onto the needle and Tx kept saying "Man, I could have sworn there were two shims in MY kit".
So we had it all back together and about ready to fire it up when Tx looked down and said "Oh sh*t!...look what I found"! And on the floor of the garage was another shim. It had fallen out of the plastic baggie in the box and had fallen out on the floor. Needless to say, it was unanimous to disassemble the sumb*tch again. I think it took all of ten minutes the second time around. Also needless to say, if we both weren't experts at rejetting, we are now! Go ahead...ask us anything!!!


W :roll: :roll: DY

 

^Anything Woodmeister???? or just jetting?

 

^I'll give "anything" a shot too....but no guarantees. :?