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recovered stolen vl800, ignition cylinder lock broken

202 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Skrapiron
need help figuring out what to do asap as i rely on the bike as my only transport and unrecovered contents are destroying what remains of the foundations i put in place rebooting my life.
theives stole my 2004 vl800, scandanavian bloodline characteristics in me took over and, after showing some hood rats how heathen shenanigans and tomfoolery are handled by real heathens, i recovered my ride and half the contents of the bags and luggage that were on it when they fafo'd, but now, as a result of an idiot with a flathead driver being too ignorant to unlock the ignition switch /handlebars before they tried to force the switch to engage ......the bike is inoperable.... I cannot get the switch to switch to the on position to save my life, it goes into the lock position and locks the handlebars just fine it goes to the off position and unlocks the handlebars just fine I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get it to go to the on position so that I can inspect for any other fault conditions and drive the bike. I have hours to solve this problem and normally on older equipment I could have just bypassed the switch all together and wired hot directly to the solenoid and engaged the starter driven yada yada yada. I am told that there's a diode in this ignition switch that can't be bypassed once it's been tampered with and it's a federal holiday and it's a manufacturer that no longer exists and the only shop in town that carries their parts is observing the holiday, help me Volusia-riders-won-kenobi y'all my only hope.
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FYI If you try to pull the ignition you will need a Security Torx (40) I believe but you may want a set.
There is a pin on the ignition related to the fork lock that my be stopping you from turning the key that way. Even thought the fork lock seems to be working it may be worth a look.
On the '08, at least, it requires that the key be pressed into a recessed position, to move into the wheel lock position. Is the key popping back out to the non-recessed position to be able to turn to On ? Mine won't turn to On, if it is still recessed.
I know that that may not be it, and it probably won't help, but it may give you some indication of what has jammed up.

Sad story. Sorry to hear it.
well i could not locate a used replacement at a price that was anything short pf laughably high nor could i find a t40security/tamper bit locally, so i opted for the jmo/fonzie touch and used a small/easily swingable sledge and a few assorted screw drivers to break off the driver's side half of the switch entirely so that i can actuate the bits and giggles that actually matter when turning off and on the power supply with virtually any hand t0ol l9ng enough to reach, I will upload a picture just to give you guys a perfectly clear temporary solution portrait, I had already intended on upgrading to RFID key fobs when the motorcycle was stolen from me so in all honestyb I am stoked that I did not need to waste the $200 on a replacement switch that I didn't intend to use but the following is a picture of the finished product after I got smashy
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting
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On which side is the 'driver's side' of a motorcycle? Just messing with ya... I assume the right side in your case?
Yea, that's smashy smashy all right.
The whole key portion is gone for sure.

What are you actuating?

Is it a matter of converting rotary to linear movement?
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you are completing a total of three tasks is best way I can describe it with one fluid motion you are pulling the handlebar lock out of the neck you are sliding a big rectangular metal box backwards to put the switch in the right general area well also flipping the switch to rotate the plastic piece so that the contacts touch the things are supposed to contact, and in so doing you get six tiny little pieces of metal to touch six wires and complete six circuits.
Just buy the complete ignition. You will thank us later.
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