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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Last fall my brother an I decided to buy bikes. Both being on a budget of 3k or less we weren't fussy on makes as long as it had two wheels.

I ended up with a 2009 yamaha vstar, he bought a 2010 Suzuki m50 boulevard.

Last year we figured his bike had sprung a leak in the rad started dripping at the end of riding season when it got cold. Being a dumbass he is he didn't deal with it too well. He said he looked but I have my doubts.

Today we went for our first ride sure again starts to small leak when we stopped and put it on the kickstand. He takes it home and finds a small pin hole on the backside of the rad.

We figure the best action now would be to remove the rad and take it to a local rad shop to be sealed up.

When we took the rad off we thought just the coolant would drain, but it seems the oil drained out too, did we totally wreck his bike or is this normal ?

Trying to find a solution for his 2010 boulevard is a tough battle as it seems to be a year not much info is available. I hope this is the right forum to be asking such questions.

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Picture of the hole and what came out of the rad.

Not 100% sure if its oil or just REALLY dirty crud.

When I talked to my brother he stated he couldn't see any oil in the sight glass. But I honestly haven't looked for myself. He just sent me the pics of what came out.
 

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I think I have found out why you are not finding any information on the 2010 Boulevard M50 model. They (Suzuki) didn't ship any to North America for the year 2010 as there was a surplus of 2009 models still available for sale. See quote below - source page link below as well;

For 2010, the M50 was given a major redesign. The M50 motor was discontinued, and the current model M50 now uses the same motor as the C50, consolidating production and simplifying parts sourcing. The sheet metal was changed, eliminating the distinctive rear fender found on the 2005-09 M50 in favor of a fender similar to the one found on other cruiser models. A smallcowling was added around the headlight, giving the M50 a family resemblance to the other Suzuki ‘M” cruisers, the M90 and M109r. Sales numbers for the redesigned M50 are unavailable, as Suzuki chose not to ship any 2010 models to North America due to the large supply of leftover 2009s in dealer inventory.

Suzuki Boulevard M50 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 

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Firstly, you need to determine the year of the bike. Easy way to do that is to look on the left side of the bike (as you sit on it) and the year of manufacture should be on the label attached to the frame. If that has been removed, you can get the year by doing a VIN search. VIN number located in the same area.
Go here and input your VIN #

VIN View /// AnalogX

Now you can ensure you are looking up the correct parts for your machine.

cheers....
 

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You would not see any oil in the sight window if the bike is on the kickstand. It needs to be sitting upright before oil will be visible.

How may miles on the bike? When was the coolant changed last ? Does the liquid feel like it has oil in it ?

If the cooling system was neglected this could cause the water pump to malfunction and eventually lead to these issues. Possible water pump seal if you are lucky. If you are unlucky, then the water pump is shot and a head gasket needs replacing as well.

Regardless, all is not lost, but I suggest getting this repair done at your local bike shop if you do not have the experience in these matters.

If I were to guess, it will cost at least $300 to $400 worth in parts and labor to get it sorted out (hopefully worst case scenario), but the next step is get it to your local bike shop before causing any further damage.

See the link for some OEM Suzuki parts -
Suzuki Dirt Bike Parts, Suzuki Dirt Bike OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

Here's hoping I am totally wrong and it's a $25 fix.... keep us updated - we learn from each other around here.

Cheers...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the reply.

I will look for the Vin after work tonight but when the insurance was bought it came up as a 2010.

Will double check. The bike has roughly 25,000 kms. The maintenance from the previous owner is unknown.

Going to also talk to the local Suzuki dealer today.
 

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I really can't tell by looking at the picture weather you have oil in the antifreeze or not, but if you have oil you should see a definitive line of oil floating on top of the antifreeze. Just a consistent brownish color doesn't necessarily mean you struck oil.
A couple of years ago biker pop broke down near my home with a leaking radiator and had to have it repaired at a radiator shop. As I recall when we drained it I accused him of putting bourbon in his bike's cooling system. He's an old boy scout and always prepared you know.
 

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Some confusion may have come about simply because your bike is a 2010 model and the letter designation in position 10 ("A") of your VIN number starts to repeat. Your bike is not a 1980 model but rather a 2010 model...so no issues there.

"The model year for vehicles with a GVWR greater than 10,000 lb (4,500 kg), as well as buses, motorcycles, trailers and low speed vehicles may no longer be identified within a 30-year range. VIN characters 1–8 and 10 that were assigned from 1980–2009 can be repeated beginning with the 2010 model year."

Wikipedia is your friend; scroll down the page to the section that speaks aobut "Model Year Encoding"
Vehicle identification number - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Agree with Bob Penn's previous post - oil and coolant will seperate themselves...make take a bit of time, but it will happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good news bad news.

I came over to confirm the oil.

He's a moron.

Oil level is fine. Rad has been fixed for $20.

Going to reinstall and re fill tank with the directions I found on your great site.
Thank you to those who tried to help me figure out the problem and I apologize if I wasted your time.

Will report back if we managed to fix it ourselves.
 

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yea, the coolant is probably brown because of oxidation or incorrect coolant being poured in. after you replace the radiator, flush that sucker well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Got it all back together. And took for a test run.

And it leaks. Same exact spot that got fixed.

Any leads on a new or used rad that will fit ?
Also what years are interchangeable?
 

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Glad to hear the good news.
Is a second repair on the rad a possibility? Maybe bring it to a different rad repair place and hope for better results.

If not...then is seems as though that rad is in a lot of models so you should be able to get one without much difficulty. Check with your local dealer to confirm but the from what I can see the common part number used in most models is 17710-41F20 . Check out the link below;

17710-41F20 Partzilla Search

They are quite expensive though.
eBay might be an option if you cannot get one through the forum or locally.

17710-41F20 | eBay

Definitely want to confirm that part number prior to purchase !!!
 

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Radiator leaks are always difficult to fix. The brown stuff was probably radiator sealant. The sealant may have slowed down the leak but didn't stop it. I like your plan of a new radiator. Price it out at your local dealer if you like the price buy locally as the dealer will probably guarantee the radiator for at least 90 days and he's easy to get in touch with if heaven forbid the replacement radiator leaks.
 

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The repair shop was supposed to do a pressure test before giving it back to you, when doing this test they are supposed to find if there is still any leak so I would recommend taking it back to them and ask for a warranty repair especially after hearing that getting a new one is kinda expensive.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I would take it back to the same shop their prices are really cheap at $20. I once had my buddy who was working free once took four of five tries to fix a leaker the leak was near the top where the rad was probably sealed at the factory with a hot dip seal.
The leak kept moving around a little never showing up until under operating pressure and temperature. He finally won the battle with the leak.

You may have a radiator that's really on its last legs ready to spring a fresh leak at any moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the part number I have found a couple on eBay in the $200 range. Used but compared to $600-700 might be the option we look into. Going to check out the local salvage shop as it was closed when we got there today.

Stuff happens just how you deal with it is what matters.
Keep smiling keep truckin
 
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