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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my lowers in the mail today and I'm anxious to install them. Upon reviewing the instructions, I noticed that I need to remove the bolt at the triple tree. It looks like that bolt secures the fork to the frame.

Do I need to place the bike on a jack before attempting the installation?

Sorry if this topic has been covered already.
 

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I don't remember having to remove that bolt or I would still have mine in the box. Isn't here a spare bolt on the triple tree that you use? It has been so long I can't remember
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The instructions come with a replacement bolt and a spacer to replace the black triple tree bolt. I guess I should add that I have an OEM windshield.
 

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There's a bolt at the bottom of the fork cover that has to be removed. That is the only one I know about.

Edit: I just went and looked - it's the bottom fork clamp screw that you are removing. You may have to rotate the fork cover to see it.
 

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It took me several reads to understand because I couldn't see the bolt in question.

Turn the upper fork cover, it may have twisted to cover the bolt in question. You should find the bolt in the cut out section of the fork cover.

It is an allen wrench bolt. Takes a pretty good amount of torque to loosen. I had to use something on my allen wrench for more leverage.

No need for the bike to be on a jack. That's the easy part. Getting the clamp around a fastened is the b*tch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the replies.

I had to us a box end wrench as leverage to break those bolts loose, but I finally got it! I took a test ride and the lowers helped a bunch. I raised my windshield to its uppermost point and that was the ticket!

I'm looking forward to riding this weekend to Panama City for the Thunder Beach bike rally!
 

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These lowers really help the Wife with wind in the face and buffeting at cruise speed. However, I did run into a couple of issues when I installed these lowers on her '06 C50 which has the OEM windshield and light bar.

One thing I found was the OEM light bar has two different holes to mount the turn signals. I originally installed the turn signal lights in the back mounting hole and found if I moved them to the front hole it created much needed clearance.

After that I found another problem... As the front struts compress during normal riding the lowers can easily rub against the "Huffy" reflectors and even rub the struts near the fender mount if installed incorrectly. You can easily check this clearance. Sit on your bike & hold the front brake while compressing the front struts by rocking your weight forward onto the handle bars. Once you see where their travel will be you can easily adjust the mounting location. You may want to check this clearance again while riding. While underway, apply the front brake and make note of the lowers and any clearance issues as the front strut compresses. Obviously, be smart when doing this check... i.e. don't do this in traffic, etc...

Good luck on the install. They are worth it!

On edit, the stock bolts are tight, but not frozen. Additionally, you can easily do this install with the bike on the ground. If you are just "itching" to use your lift, make sure you break these bolts free prior to lifting your bike. Otherwise, with the amount of torque required to break these free you might pull your bike off the lift!

Edmo
 

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Dang, I have a set to install on mine soon. Not looking forward to wrestling those loose. :lol: What is the torque spec on those bolts that they are so tight? :shock:
 

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I just installed these myself last weekend. Gotta concur with others, those bolts are tight. No idea what the torque speck is, but it took some muscle to "pop" them loose. After that, install was a breeze. I took my cycle out for a ride and the difference was definitely noticeable....no more vision blur :)
 

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Instructions

Can someone send me the instructions?

I need to adapt my HD lowers with my detachable MF shield and some instructions from VA will help get me starte.

[email protected]
 

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Looking in my Clymer (they refer to the bolt as the "lower fork clamp bolt") and it's torque spec is 24 ft.-lb.
 

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The lower triple clamp bolt torque is 24 ft-lbs on a C50.

But I figured I had to hit it with a hammer to get it loose so I just hit it with a hammer to tighten it.

Then I bought a torque wrench and checked it cuz I got scared. It was fine.
 

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Studly said:
Dang, I have a set to install on mine soon. Not looking forward to wrestling those loose. :lol: What is the torque spec on those bolts that they are so tight? :shock:
I used a 3/8" drive metric hex socket and a breaker bar to bust mine loose. It isn't that bad.
 
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