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Discussion Starter #1
I did a search and didn't find the answer, and I can't believe it isn't in here somewhere but I couldn't find it, sorry if this is a thread somewhere already...

I used a wire disk and removed all the paint from my tank, cleaned up the fork lowers, and was hoping to leave the naked (raw) steel to match the trailer fender I used for the rear fender. Here is an inprogress picture, I am clearly not done removing paint and polishing at this stage.

In researching the web I found 1000 people saying to try this or that to keep it from rusting and 1000 more saying nothing works.... SO... what I want is the swirled raw steel look. I am open to clearcoating, waxing, WD-40ing, RPM, etc but thought I'd come pick the brain of the VR collective to see what you all thought about the best way to handle it.

thanks
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #4
clear peel?

Clear coat. If it doesn't have something on it it's going to rust out in about a month's time.

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Thanks,
I considered clear coat rustoleum, but some of the stuff I read on line said it would yellow and peel. without primer .. I considered chrome or evfen a wrap too, but I am looking for the raw look.
anyone have any product they have successfully c0leared brushed steel with that lasted?
 

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I seen jesse james or one of the big bike builder guys do this but cant remember what he treated it with, but if you could find that episode some how.......
 

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Thanks,
I considered clear coat rustoleum, but some of the stuff I read on line said it would yellow and peel. without primer .. I considered chrome or evfen a wrap too, but I am looking for the raw look.
anyone have any product they have successfully c0leared brushed steel with that lasted?
First off the quality of the finished paint job depends on two things above all else....
1. the prep work on the sheet metal.
2. the quality of the paint.

Make sure you get the tank polished as perfect as you want it to look after the clear is on (yeah, painfully obvious)

Be sure to thoroughly wipe it down with clean rags soaked with a good thinner/solvent to get every last trace of oil and crud off of it.

Be sure to let the tank sit somewhere warm and dry long enough to completely be rid of the solvent before attempting to paint it.

It will add another 50% or so to the cost but do not forget to get and apply a compatible adhesion promoter and follow it's recommendations for how soon after application to follow up with applying the clearcoat.

Don't waste your time by throwing on cheap paint. Look for a product like Por-15 Glisten PC which is designed to be used as a clear on bare metal, is resistant to things like accidental drips of gas (which are EXTREMELY GOOD AT REMOVING RATTLECAN PAINT JOBS), and are resistant to abrasion and chipping. The Por-15 for example will set you back about the cost of (depending on what and where you buy) 4-16 rattle cans (averages $32 a pint) but, at least it will not come off the first time the pump attendant doesn't notice that the tank's getting overfull until there's a geyser of fuel spewing from the filler and a lake of fuel in the saddle.

This actually happened to me...and as I'm sure you've already guessed, I was ****ing ****ed. Even though that particular station still doesn't allow cagers to fill their vehicles themselves, they have implemented a policy barring attendants from filling bikes.....I can't imagine why :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After practically reaching the end of the internet, I may have settled on a product called Everbright... they don't even HAVE full service stations here anymore, but my other Vol has shade-tree paint clearcoat etching from gas spills too - ergh.
 

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they guys on fast and loud clear coat all the time after removing rust
 

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I'm not a paint expert so I would have used a cheap clear-coat, sounds like "disturbed" has the answer you are looking for. In any regard, the bike project looks way cool!
 

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After practically reaching the end of the internet, I may have settled on a product called Everbright... they don't even HAVE full service stations here anymore, but my other Vol has shade-tree paint clearcoat etching from gas spills too - ergh.
interesting stuff... Everbrite . looks like it aughta be just the ticket...the only issue I see is, it is NOT resistant to solvents, which means fuel spills will remove it.

How can I remove Everbrite or ProtectaClear?

If you mess up the application or get an Everbrite Coating on a surface that you didn't mean to get it on like window glass, the coating can be removed with xylene or other solvents. Make sure to test an area of the surface to make sure that the solvent will not harm it.
The coatings can also be removed with lacquer thinner but if the surface is to be re-coated, a final wipe with denatured alcohol or xylene is necessary to remove the oil in the lacquer thinner.
 
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