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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I've been searching old forums in regards to mounting an air filter directly to the carb to eliminate the football. Seems experiences vary a good bit with jetting. Some have nailed it first time and others have to change quite a bit many times to get it close or just abandon and go back to stock.

Ive already deleted the pair valve so would love the right side to match. I know which uni filter I need along with the breather filter. And would order a dynojet kit. Looks like $90 for the jet kit and about $40 for the two filters. Jetting matrix has some baselines and of course not a one size fits all. Im right at or below sea-level in Massachusetts.

Currently the bike has vance and hines straight shots, new oem air filter in original box. Pilot screw is turned out 3.5 turns. Pair valve delete. Not sure on current jetting as ive never had the carb apart. But its always run well. Even before the pair valve delete there was zero and I mean absolutely zero popping on decel. Recent plug check shows they are burning well, not black or white but more brown/tan. Leads me to believe its been jetted because I dont see how the bike could run so well with the exhaust on stock jetting with how lean these come from the factory.

So basically trying to decide if it's worth potentially making the bike run worse with the trial and error of jetting. Has anyone done this recently and if so and you're at sea level what jetting has worked for you? I'll throw a few pictures up of the bike both sides just because pictures make posts better lol.
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There is no performance gain. People did it because they Iiked the naked jugs look. It is a matter of preference if you want the look and are willing to put up with possibly messing up the state of tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know its less about performance and more for looks which is exactly what I'm going for. Just wanting to see if anyone with a similar setup and location/altitude has done it recently and what their settings are. Bike would look much better with naked jugs on the right to match the left. At least getting this carb on and off isn't terrible but still annoying to do multiple times. But with the dj kit it has everything needed to get things set right.
 

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My friend, the Volusia hasn't been manufactured for 18 years. People stopped doing the "nekkid jugs" look when the bike switched over the EFI. The days of this being a common mod and people freely sharing their setup experience are over, so I'm afraid you're going to have to reinvent the wheel here. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My friend, the Volusia hasn't been manufactured for 18 years. People stopped doing the "nekkid jugs" look when the bike switched over the EFI. The days of this being a common mod and people freely sharing their setup experience are over, so I'm afraid you're going to have to reinvent the wheel here. Good luck.
I'm well aware of how long its been since the volusia was made. Its also my 4th volusia and have owned 2 c50's as well. You certainly can't speak for everyone simply saying noone does this mod anymore because there's still a massive amount of carbureted volusias out there. Forums for the most parts are dead anyway and i didn't expect to get much help here but ive already had much more help through Facebook pages where people still do this to their volusias. So yes people do still do this and share info. I appreciate you throwing an opinion out there but it added nothing of value to this post so may have been best left unsaid.
 

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The Football air cleaner housing is actually designed after an outline of the Daytona Race Track.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Football air cleaner housing is actually designed after an outline of the Daytona Race Track.
Theres probably quite a few things shaped like that track haha. It doesn't look terrible but doesn't look great. And does stick out just far enough to be annoying for the leg position. Left side feels perfect with nothing there. Ill still toy around with getting rid of it. Only reason I havnt already bought the parts is because the bike runs so well as it sits. I know I can just revert back to my current settings and use the oem box should it not run well enough with the dj kit and pod filter. Ill end up ordering it just to have and will throw it on when bored one day and spend some times testing and tuning.
 

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I'm well aware of how long its been since the volusia was made. Its also my 4th volusia and have owned 2 c50's as well. You certainly can't speak for everyone simply saying noone does this mod anymore because there's still a massive amount of carbureted volusias out there. Forums for the most parts are dead anyway and i didn't expect to get much help here but ive already had much more help through Facebook pages where people still do this to their volusias. So yes people do still do this and share info. I appreciate you throwing an opinion out there but it added nothing of value to this post so may have been best left unsaid.
Dude's got a good point. It must be really discouraging for people to join this forum all excited about buying or working on one of these bikes...only to get shut down or disparaged when they ask questions or need ideas. This used to be a welcoming and helpful place to learn about and share info on the VL800 or the C50. Seems to have changed recently for some. I'd say most people want to help, but others...eh, not so much. I guess it's no wonder people start looking elsewhere or stop posting. Shame, 'cause there's still a lot of good knowledge here.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dude's got a good point. It must be really discouraging for people to join this forum all excited about buying or working on one of these bikes...only to get shut down or disparaged when they ask questions or need ideas. This used to be a welcoming and helpful place to learn about and share info on the VL800 or the C50. Seems to have changed recently for some. I'd say most people want to help, but others...eh, not so much. I guess it's no wonder people start looking elsewhere or stop posting. Shame, 'cause there's still a lot of good knowledge here.
I'm a member of many different forums and unfortunatly its about the same everywhere. Some are better than others but for the most part forums aren't nearly as helpful as they used to be. Ive had much better experience through Facebook groups. And even those can be a pain but just have to join the right ones with moderators and admins that keep negative things to a minimum. Im not mad at the guy above, just something that didn't need to be said as it wasn't helpful in any way shape or form to the topic at hand. Ive received some pointers from a few on a Facebook group so have a direction to go in.
 

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I'm a member of many different forums and unfortunatly its about the same everywhere. Some are better than others but for the most part forums aren't nearly as helpful as they used to be. Ive had much better experience through Facebook groups. And even those can be a pain but just have to join the right ones with moderators and admins that keep negative things to a minimum. Im not mad at the guy above, just something that didn't need to be said as it wasn't helpful in any way shape or form to the topic at hand. Ive received some pointers from a few on a Facebook group so have a direction to go in.
Anyway, back on topic. So… disabling the PAIR valve eliminates Decel popping with aftermarket exhaust. All the modifications were actually quite useful. Something to consider with the removal of the football is to use a unifilter on top of the carb or to use a hypercharger type conical filter.

OK… we want the air we intake to be as cool as possible. The unifilter may not be the trick for that. But it is easy… just find the unifilter that fits and use it.

The dynojet jet kit comes with specific instructions for the Volusia. Use them and your bike will run well, don‘t use them and your bike wont run so well :).\

I tore everything off my volusia intake and emission related; I put on good aftermarket pipes, A cold air intake, better plug wires and a dyno jet kit using the exact factory instructions from dyno jet (whose techs were Suzuki techs)

The results did make a big difference in throttle response so don‘t listen to naysayers, it made the bike more rideable.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Anyway, back on topic. So… disabling the PAIR valve eliminates Decel popping with aftermarket exhaust. All the modifications were actually quite useful. Something to consider with the removal of the football is to use a unifilter on top of the carb or to use a hypercharger type conical filter.

OK… we want the air we intake to be as cool as possible. The unifilter may not be the trick for that. But it is easy… just find the unifilter that fits and use it.

The dynojet jet kit comes with specific instructions for the Volusia. Use them and your bike will run well, don‘t use them and your bike wont run so well :).\

I tore everything off my volusia intake and emission related; I put on good aftermarket pipes, A cold air intake, better plug wires and a dyno jet kit using the exact factory instructions from dyno jet (whose techs were Suzuki techs)

The results did make a big difference in throttle response so don‘t listen to naysayers, it made the bike more rideable.


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I deleted the pair valve same day I bought the bike. It didn't have any popping on decel anyway but wanted to clean the look up. I have the correct uni filter for the carb and breather filter ready to be ordered. Nothing done to these bikes is really for performance so not worried about the slight lack of cooler air above the engine. Ive had several people tell me to not waste money on the dynojet kit for one reason or another. It doesn't include pilot jets which is a negative. Some report the adjustable needle is more problematic than stock and to just shim the stock needle. I have mikuni pilots and mains and a bowl gasket ready to order. However im trying to confirm that ive chosen the right main jets as there's 6 or 7 options from mikuni. I believe they are the mikuni n102.221 small round head main jets. Pilots are n224.103. I have 3 pilots and 3 mains chosen and will shim the needle as needed. Bike runs very well as it sits so will he a bummer to go backwards with tuning but ill get it nailed down pretty quick.
 

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I deleted the pair valve same day I bought the bike. It didn't have any popping on decel anyway but wanted to clean the look up. I have the correct uni filter for the carb and breather filter ready to be ordered. Nothing done to these bikes is really for performance so not worried about the slight lack of cooler air above the engine. Ive had several people tell me to not waste money on the dynojet kit for one reason or another. It doesn't include pilot jets which is a negative. Some report the adjustable needle is more problematic than stock and to just shim the stock needle. I have mikuni pilots and mains and a bowl gasket ready to order. However im trying to confirm that ive chosen the right main jets as there's 6 or 7 options from mikuni. I believe they are the mikuni n102.221 small round head main jets. Pilots are n224.103. I have 3 pilots and 3 mains chosen and will shim the needle as needed. Bike runs very well as it sits so will he a bummer to go backwards with tuning but ill get it nailed down pretty quick.
So , first, keep in mind I‘ve done all of this, never change your pilot jet. Trust me on that. Don‘t do it. Dont change the pilot jet on any motorcycle carb ever. It’s the idle jet. So if you do it your self there is going to be some switching and re-assembling/assembling… like 2 or three times. A product that comes with instructions for perfection is never a waste of money :)

I didnt see if you have aftermarket pipes. You dont get decel popping until you pull the stock pipes. SInce the pair valve is already gone its no big deal.

You don‘t need to reject until you change the equation until the intake and exhaust are both changed. If you do that though you will need to re-jet. Use your method or use dyno jet… for me dyno jet provided a perfect tested solution so it was worth it to me.

Now, I am anal retentive on all this and did dyno the bike after all the tuning. It’s the throttle response that did the trick but I did pick up horsepower as well from changing ignition pipes and intake. It does make it a very fun bike to ride.


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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
So , first, keep in mind I‘ve done all of this, never change your pilot jet. Trust me on that. Don‘t do it. Dont change the pilot jet on any motorcycle carb ever. It’s the idle jet. So if you do it your self there is going to be some switching and re-assembling/assembling… like 2 or three times. A product that comes with instructions for perfection is never a waste of money :)

I didnt see if you have aftermarket pipes. You dont get decel popping until you pull the stock pipes. SInce the pair valve is already gone its no big deal.

You don‘t need to reject until you change the equation until the intake and exhaust are both changed. If you do that though you will need to re-jet. Use your method or use dyno jet… for me dyno jet provided a perfect tested solution so it was worth it to me.

Now, I am anal retentive on all this and did dyno the bike after all the tuning. It’s the throttle response that did the trick but I did pick up horsepower as well from changing ignition pipes and intake. It does make it a very fun bike to ride.


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Ive rejetted many, many carbs over the years so this isn't new to me but first time rejetting a volusia sonhavr just been looking for peoples personal experiences. Everyone I spoke with said they had to change the pilot and ive had to change the pilot on every card over ever jetted. These bikes are far too lean from the factory.

I didnt list it but you can see the vance and hines straight shots in the picture. Even before I deleted the pair valve there was zero popping but I deleted anyway for cosmetic reasons. Same reason I'm deleting the airbox. Rarely does it yield better performance as these bikes are quite slow no matter whats done. I know I may get lucky and not have to swap pilots but have them on order in all the sizes people report using. I also spent less money on oem jets, bowl gasket and both filters than the cost of the dynojet kit alone which doesn't have pilots if they end up being needed. Normally id buy the kit but had enough people suggest its not needed.

I'm sure it will take a few tries. Rarely can you nail it in one go. But everything should arrive Thursday and I can get to working on it. This forum hasn't helped much for new posts but I saved the jetting matrix page and looked at old posts. And have had a good bit of help from Facebook pages. I dont mind tuning and its very easy to get the tank and carb off especially when there's little fuel so I have to remember not to fill the tank before Thursday lol.

Also whereabouts are you located and whats your altitude and general weather like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Air filter and breather filter came in today. Test fit and it doesn't smush down as much as I expected. Decent bit of room under the tank. Jets don't arrive until tomorrow so won't be riding the bike until then. Lightly oiled the inner and outer filter. Actually going to put the filter on tomorrow and run the bike just to see how it runs with the current setting. I also need to pickup a longer breather filter hose so I can route it further up under the tank. It only had enough reach to sit between the cylinders as seen in the picture below. But loving the naked look on both sides now. Also sanded and polished the engine fins. Not a mirror finish but a decent shine.
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The drawback to the oil soaked UniFilter is there is nothing you can do to prevent oil droplets from being ingested into the carb. Eventually, it will have to be disassembled and cleaned due to the oil buildup. You also will have to add a crankcase breather filter, since you're deleting the football and the breather would otherwise just be open to atmosphere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The drawback to the oil soaked UniFilter is there is nothing you can do to prevent oil droplets from being ingested into the carb. Eventually, it will have to be disassembled and cleaned due to the oil buildup. You also will have to add a crankcase breather filter, since you're deleting the football and the breather would otherwise just be open to atmosphere.
Ive dealt with plenty of oiled filters in the past. Just wasn't sure what peoples preferred method was on the volusia. I did oil the inner and outer filter but fairly lightly. Enough to catch stuff but not nearly enough to drip. And I already have the breather filter which I mentioned in my first post. And you can see the breather filter in the picture above. I will be getting a longer hose to route the breather further up under the tank so its not exposed like it is, bit of an eye sore.

Took the bike for a ride today and it's running surpringly well. Id have to assume its been jetted already because the bike always ran great with the vance and hines straight shots and never had any popping and rarely needs the choke if ever. Now with the carb mounted filter its running just as good. No obvious hesitation or dead spots I could tell. I didnt run the balls off it but did some light pulls and wot a couple gears and pulls strong all the way through. These bikes are so lean from the factory theres no way it would be rideable with stock jetting and a carb mounted filter and pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thought I posted an update but have made some jetting changed. I pulled the carb to see what was inside as I had assumed it was jetted. Pilot was stock 27.5 with screw 3.5 turns out. Adjustable needle assuming dynojet and was on the 3rd notch. And the main was only a 130 and I thought 132 was stock. But with these settings the bike was perfectly rideable although I felt it could be better. So I left the clip in the same notch but added a small washer basically like being in the middle of notch 3 and 4. And went with a 142.5 main. Noticeably better all around. Pulled harder mid range and up top.

Ran like that a short while and figured id try another change since its easy enough to get the carb off this bike. Removed the washer from the needle and moved the clip to the 4th slot. And went to a 145 main. Even more improvement. Bike pulls very hard mid range and all the way through the topend. Dont feel a need to mess with the pilot as the bike has zero cold start issues and barely needs the choke. But I do have a 35, 37.5 and 40 pilot on hand to try out if I need them. Also have a 147.5 main as well if I feel like swapping that in. But for the time being very happy with the performance. Naked jugs mod is a success and overall quite easy.
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Ah a nice happy ending.

Sorry I don't come in much anymore. And it's been a lot of years since I did all the above so wouldn't be much help. Honestly a couple old members helped me do it then too.

I guess I could tag back more, but when you did the pair valve for you just call the tubes? I did that for a long time but they would eventually come off the bike ride start making weird noises I'd panic on the side of the road for a minute then remember to check the caps.
So I finally took off the flange bracket from the cylinder, took the tube off and made plate and a gasket to go under the bracket and screwed it back on.
Worked great ever since
And yes all the above did as extra performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ah a nice happy ending.

Sorry I don't come in much anymore. And it's been a lot of years since I did all the above so wouldn't be much help. Honestly a couple old members helped me do it then too.

I guess I could tag back more, but when you did the pair valve for you just call the tubes? I did that for a long time but they would eventually come off the bike ride start making weird noises I'd panic on the side of the road for a minute then remember to check the caps.
So I finally took off the flange bracket from the cylinder, took the tube off and made plate and a gasket to go under the bracket and screwed it back on.
Worked great ever since
And yes all the above did as extra performance.
I initially just removed the air pump and looped/blocked the rubber lines and left the hard metal lines in place. Was a method that was shown on moccsplace.com. But I was bored one day and removed the metal lines and made my own block off plates using the original flanges as a Template. The rear was easy, front was very difficult due to space even with the exhaust pipe removed. But have had no issues.

And once I saw how clean it looked on that side I had to go ahead with deleting the airbox. Bike runs excellent but it is starting to get cooler so I may up the pilot jet just to be safe. Coldest ive run it so far was about 47° and had zero issues so may not even need the bigger pilot but have them just in case.
 
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