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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After reading literally hundreds of replies on the longevity of the C50, here and on the internet, I decided to offer up my 2012 C50 as a guinea pig and test the longevity of the engine, transmission and final drive using Lucas products exclusively. Right now I'm just under 6,000 miles after 16 months of ownership. Bought "Jumbo Shrimp" new in April 2013. After the Dealership did the first service I started using Lucas synthetic 20w-50 MC oil on the 2nd service, but switched to Lucas semi-synthetic 10w-40 MC oil this last time - thought it would be better on a low mileage engine. May switch back to the 20w-50 in the future. Changing out the differential oil with Lucas 80w-90 gear lube tomorrow. Again, I may switch to a full synthetic 75w-90 in the future if I think it is necessary. I will also use 1 ounce of Lucas Fuel treatment/Upper cylinder lubricant at every fuel fill up. Seems like a UOA should be done on a regular interval, just to check the progress. Probably every 8,000 -10,000 miles. Not sure if other Volusia and C50 owners have used Lucas MC oils and gear lubes for long periods of time and have posted their experiences, but based on all the negative comments I have read on the internet against Lucas being "AMERICA'S FINEST MOTOR OIL" ...I really doubt it gets used very often.

So that's basically the plan - I decided to put my money where *****' mouth is and see how things go. I'm ready to break some records. :D
 

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I've used Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer with 20W50 Mobile 1 V-Twin Synthetic since the 12,000 mile mark. Both in the engine (10% mix) and in the dif (straight). **** good stuff. (180,000+ relatively trouble free miles on my Volusia to show for it so far).

Haven't seen the MC oil, will definitely have to look into it.

How's the gearbox with the 10W40?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've used Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer with 20W50 Mobile 1 V-Twin Synthetic since the 12,000 mile mark. Both in the engine (10% mix) and in the dif (straight). **** good stuff. (180,000+ relatively trouble free miles on my Volusia to show for it so far).

Haven't seen the MC oil, will definitely have to look into it.

How's the gearbox with the 10W40?

Probably shifts a little better with the 20w-50, maybe, but it's really hard to tell a difference...since the gearbox has always shifted super smooth with just the slightest tap of my foot.


[EDIT] Can't find the article I read that showed Lucas MC oil test results compared to nearly every oil brand I've ever heard of. And a few MC oils I didn't know existed - Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn, etc...

Closest thing I could find today was this "Study" of motorcycle oils, by Amsoil INC.

http://www.modernoils.com/media/pdf_files/g2156MotorcycleComparison.pdf
 

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Let us know in 12 years how it did. These bikes may not be along the lines of a Goldwing or a BMW boxer but they certainly should last a decade without worries at 3.5k miles per year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Let us know in 12 years how it did. These bikes may not be along the lines of a Goldwing or a BMW boxer but they certainly should last a decade without worries at 3.5k miles per year.
Hopefully I'll have good news - should be at the 100,000 - 125,000 mile mark. At least. Normally it would only be 4k-5k/year, but since I just recently sold my cage (2012 truck) I assume that my yearly average will go way up. Only time I won't ride will be when there is salt, snow and ice on the streets, or if it's less than 20F outside. Then I'll carpool.
 

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(180,000+ relatively trouble free miles on my Volusia to show for it so far).
For some reason I think you may have added one to many zero.
Now that I look at your pics and one show your miles at 137,000 maybe you didn't! I would have never thought anyone would have ever got that many mile out of one no matter what they used.
 

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Up until two years ago, I absolutely believed that using top tier oil was the key to longevity in engine life. But my experience with my old C50 changed that opinion. Since then, I've decided to just buy whatever is on sale at the time and change it at recommended intervals.
 

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I truly believe its more important to keep fresh oil in the engine more than what type I use...syn vs dyno...tried many but have been loyal to castrol gtx for the last 100k miles on my last 2 and present bike...10/40 in the cooler months 20/50 in the warmer.
 

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At 30,000 miles my truck had a screaming power steering pump. Drained and filled with Lucas AT sealer. Stopped screaming before I got my hand off the key. that was 110,000 miles ago. Still going.
 

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I truly believe its more important to keep fresh oil in the engine more than what type I use...syn vs dyno...tried many but have been loyal to castrol gtx for the last 100k miles on my last 2 and present bike...10/40 in the cooler months 20/50 in the warmer.
Yup, Fresh oil on a regular basis is THE key to engine longevity no matter what make.
I do my oil and filter before they're due, check and adjust valves every other oil change, etc. .

But, a thing to remember, the better the lube you use the better the shape it's in when you change it.

And no, it ain't a waste to change it out early as the oil from my bike goes into my mower, snowthrower, and rototiller....the old oil from them gets used for lubrication of hinges and chains, rust prevention, quenching, soaking rusted and stuck things and various other things that don't require pristine oil.

Originally Posted by cougar28 View Post
For some reason I think you may have added one to many zero.
Now that I look at your pics and one show your miles at 137,000 maybe you didn't! I would have never thought anyone would have ever got that many mile out of one no matter what they used.
It's just a shame that the engine needed a complete rear jug rebuild from the crankshaft up and new timing chains and tensioners for both jugs at 12,000 miles.

BlutoBodine, You're a braver person than I judging by the pdf you provided. Definitely would not put that stuff in the crankcase of any of my vehicles.

Was pleased to see Mobile 1 20W50 tested well and ranked in the top 2 overall though. :wayhappy:

http://www.modernoils.com/media/pdf_files/g2156MotorcycleComparison.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
BlutoBodine, You're a braver person than I judging by the pdf you provided. Definitely would not put that stuff in the crankcase of any of my vehicles.

Been using Lucas motor oils for nearly 15 years, in all my vehicles:

2000 F150 Lariat - stock (sold at 115,000 miles)
2002 KB SC Mustang GT - 430+ rwhp (sold at 39,000 miles)
2005 Stage IV SRT4 - 440+ whp (sold at 36,000 miles)
2008 Toyota Tacoma - stock (sold at 58,000 miles)
2012 Nissan SE-R - stock (sold at 14,000 miles)
2012 Nissan Titan - stock (sold at 11,000 miles)

Never had an internal engine related failure on any vehicle. Ever.

Did grenade the automatic transmission on the 'stang when it shifted into high gear at approximately 115 mph at WOT. Forgot to disable the overdrive before the race. OD was a known weakness on the Mustangs...and just couldn't handle the extra horsepower and torque of the KB blower.
 

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Dude those were babies...h*** most of the cars and trucks I've owned had more miles than your highest mileage listed when I bought 'em....and two to three times that when they went to meet their makers.

I'll stick to Lucas HDOS with Mobile 1 Synthetic in my rides.

I do however wish you luck with your experiment, anything that helps prolong the live of our rides is a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Dude those were babies...h*** most of the cars and trucks I've owned had more miles than your highest mileage listed when I bought 'em....and two to three times that when they went to meet their makers.

I'll stick to Lucas HDOS with Mobile 1 Synthetic in my rides.

I do however wish you luck with your experiment, anything that helps prolong the live of our rides is a good thing.

Thanks.

If I could've put 370,000 miles on the 2012 Titan that I bought in 2013...I guess I would of. Sorry that I only managed 11,000 miles. But I figured I'd get extra points for the 75,000 combined miles on a 500 flywheel HP Mustang (that only came from the factory with half that HP) and a Neon SRT4 4cyl making much higher boost levels than the factory turbo could ever put out. Big turbo Stage IV aftermarket turbo kit nearly doubled the boost level, and also managed to make 500 flywheel HP. Did UOA testing on the 2000 - 2008 vehicles. Not once did the tests show abnormal wear levels or anything out of the ordinary....sorry. But shared motorcycle engine/wet clutch lubrication isn't the same as a car. We'll see.

And about the PDF that I posted, FWIW...

" A Study of
Motorcycle
Oils
AMSOIL Power Sports Group
© March 2006, AMSOIL INC. "
 

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Here are the results of a VOA to see how good (bad) the new oil looks:

OIL BRAND: Lucas

OIL TYPE: Semi-Synthetic Motorcycle
OIL GRADE: SAE 10W40 - JASO MA2

NUMBER
15954842

Metals (ppm)
Iron (Fe) <1
Chromium (Cr) <1
Lead (Pb) <1
Copper (Cu) <1
Tin (Sn) 1
Aluminium (Al) 2
Nickel (Ni) <1
Silver (Ag) <1
Titanium (Ti) <1
Vanadium (V) <1

Contaminants (ppm)
Silicon (Si) 8
Sodium (Na) 5
Potassium (K) 6
Water (%) <0.05

Additives (ppm)
Magnesium (Mg) 9
Calcium (Ca) 1948
Barium (Ba) <1
Phosphorus (P) 865
Zinc (Zn) 990
Molybdenum (Mo) <1
Boron (B) <5

Physical Tests
Viscosity (cSt 100C) 13.7
Viscosity (cSt 40C) 93.2

Physical / Chemical
Base Number (mgKOH/g) 6.8

I have also sent off a 20w50 new oil sample for analysis - Should have the test results soon. Curious to see how the UOA turns out, especially since these numbers almost don't seem too impressive.
 

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That's enough Zinc for a mack truck. :) I like Zinc in my oil.

I don't know of anyone on this forum other than myself that throws as many "wet towels" on oil discussions as I do by stating, "All this oil talk is useless without an UOA. "my oil this, my oil does that".

An oil change is what most guys (and ladies) with no mechanical experience will attempt. Then to fit in they boast their mechanical abilities by posting in an oil thread. Why do you think oil threads become so volatile? It's because folks with no mechanical abilities try to fit in.

I'm glad we have forums. I'm glad we live in a society where we are able to "do our on thing".

I've worked in a lab for 34 years 8 months and 4 days. We must trust our lab techs.

I'm changing my signature.

Early oil changes are a waste of money!
 

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990 ppm of zinc, 865 ppm phosphorous is about 2/3 of the ZDDP package in Mobil 1...

Mobil 1 motorcycle oils offer a nominal zinc level of 1300 ppm and a nominal phosphorous level of 1200 ppm.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Now that we're getting into laboratory analyses, we can finally have an adult discussion over which oil offers more protection.
 
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