Suzuki Volusia Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed a hypercharger myself, no thanks to the instructions from Thunder Mfg. I have read and read the forums looking for help, I had found little things here and there.. but mostly I have found that people have had problems initially.

I lucked out, after doing it, It started after the 5th try. (had to get fuel into the carb)

BUT... it has lost horse power. It feels sluggish and less responsive.
My tops speed when testing was 105 before the hypercharger. Now it is 90. I dont plan on riding at those speeds and it was just for a test. where did I go wrong? also, it said that it came with a big spring to replace the stock one, but it didn't. should it have?

I used a:
  • 142 main jet. (thunder suggested a 140)
  • 45 pilot jet.
  • I put the needle on the second notch. (recommended by thunder)
  • Turned the mix screw 2 1/2 turns. (recommended by thunder)
Also, the butterflies only open 1/2 way at full throttle.

Anyone know what needs to be done?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
188 Posts
The re-jet matrix says that the following is the only thing people have been able to get good results with:

Aftermarket or stock pipes and Hypercharger airkit:
142 main jet, 45 pilot jet, dyno spring, dyno needle (for Thunder kit) on 3rd notch (Thunder says 2nd notch, but no one has had this work well), mix screw at 2.5 - 3 turns, plugged air jet. Adjust idle knob as needed to reach 1100 rpm.

You didn't say you plugged the air jet and you didn't say you followed the spring and needle guidelines.

Trusting the matrix has never led me wrong and I've tried several setups

Ride Safe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
okay, I did miss mentioning one thing, I did plug the air jet.

Question, what is a dyno spring? I saw a spring that came with the kit, (roughly the size of a clicker pen spring), but the instructions said that it was included just incase the stock one gets lost. should I use the new one?

I dont have a tach, how do I know when it hits 1100 rpm?

I can and will change the "dyno" needle to the third notch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I also learned that the screws that hold the bell on... STRIP OUT due to the metal being so soft... stupid cheap steel. luckily I noticed I had enough room to get a pick and tape the plug to the tip and insert it into the air jet with out taking it off. I feel bad for the poor sould who will have to take it off in the future. he will have to drill and tap it out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
188 Posts
The rejet matrix assumes you have a dynojet reject kit.

If your bike lost power after the modification, it is probably running lean. Please look for places that air can leak into the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
PingZing, thank you for giving me pointers!
I am kind of new to working on carbs and bike engines, so I don't know what this "Matrix" is.
(pictures trenchcoat clad people wearing black working on carbs.)
I did have the Thunder Mfg. rejet kit.

Q: Is the "dyno spring" just the stock spring that was already in there?

I don't know where air could leak into the system but I will double check once I take it all back apart to move the eclip from the second notch to the third notch.

Q: Is it possible that this is all because the needle is on the second notch and not the third? And would you recommend the mix screw be at 3 turns or just 2 1/2?
Not that I don't love working on my bike, but I would prefer to get the carb set right and stop screwing with it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
188 Posts
Let's see. Here is the link to the reject matrix.

http://www.volusiariders.com/70-jets-injectors-pipes/106841-rejetting-matrix.html

The dyno spring is supposed to be just the same as the stock spring. However, the dynojet needle is a little skinner than the stock needle (lets more fuel in the mixture).

On your last question, it is really hard to say. Dialing in a reject can make you nuts. I don't think we ever get it perfect because so many factors effect what's perfect for that day. Your get an "A" if you find a setup that works 95% of the time. Hate to say it but your going to have to play with the needle settings. But before I'd do that, I would check every vacuum line and check the air tightness of the connection between the hypercharger and the carb.

Hope that helps

Ride Safe!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Matt Skeen

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
okay, I did miss mentioning one thing, I did plug the air jet.

Question, what is a dyno spring? I saw a spring that came with the kit, (roughly the size of a clicker pen spring), but the instructions said that it was included just incase the stock one gets lost. should I use the new one?

I dont have a tach, how do I know when it hits 1100 rpm?

I can and will change the "dyno" needle to the third notch.
The dyno spring is just in case the other gets lost. It just holds the needle loosely so that it doesn't get bent when you install, I guess.

The butterflies only opening 1/2 way is what I'd be looking at if I were you. You really can't tune a carb without being able to test WOT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
okay, I will check on a few things, I know that the thunder adapter plate had two aluminum plates that went together and there was no gasket between the two, I can put some RTV in there to seal it up, I will double check the vacuum lines and...
one more thing,
Q: which vacuum line was I supposed to use?
I used the one that came off the main carb outlet. (the one that is under the carb)... I asked my father-in-law which one to use, and he pointed at a ramdom one and said "that one". ... (thinks for a sec) now I am thinking that is not a good one to use.
should I have used the one that comes off the gas tank?

Once this is all dialed in, I am going to take all the pointers I know, all the links I can find and put them into one cohesive posting. I would haver loved a one stop shop.

Things such as not having to remove the bell to plug the air jet.
and which vacuum line to use. links to the matix and ect.
I will title it, tips and tricks to installing a hypercharger yourself on a VL800.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
*** update
I had time today to pull everything back off.
-I changed the dyno needle's e-clip from the second notch to the thirs
-Turned the mix screw to 2 3/4 turns.
-Reassembled the carb and tank.
-removed the hypercharger down to teh Thunder adapter plates, put RTV gasket maker on the plate attached to the cooling fins.
-discovered that the adjustment screw for the butterfly valve is as follows, (out = faster butterly responce, in = slower responce)
-reassembled the hypercharger
-the things runs like a champ.

I will be creating a post when I have more time with this info readily available for future people to save them headaches. I found alot of these things out on several places, but no one stop shop.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top