If you have the Suzuki light bar, I had the same trouble for a long time. Finally figured out the bulb socket (where the bulb base inserts) was really cheesy & not maintaining good contact with the base of the bulb. It would also burn out bulbs frequently, probably from arcing every time I hit a bump. The bulbs are not cheap nor are they easy to find. Anyway, I ended up improvising by putting a little spring, or maybe it was a small washer, in the bottom of the bulb socket to put extra pressure on the base of the bulb at the bottom contact. That worked & I have not replaced a bulb now in two years. Got to be careful to make sure whatever you put in there does not contact the sides of the socket or the bulb base or it will short out. My local Suzuki dealer is defunct, but Honda carries the bulb. Other VR members suggest replacing the bulb & sockets with a sealed beam lamp that fits the housing (available from NAPA), but I don't know if that would draw more power & potentially cause other problems. If I burn out another bulb one day, I'll probably convert mine. There is a thread here about making that conversion.
converting to the 4411 won't/shouldn't draw any more power...never heard of anyone experiencing power draw problems after making the switch...the mod is easy enough to do...about a 1/2 hour...bulbs under $10 at napa and because they are designed for tractors they are engineered to withstand a lot of vibrations and therefore work very well on the mc. Good luck w/whatever route you go.
For the driving lights I have switched to the Yamaha driving light bulbs that Gene mentions in one of these threads with the part#. I believe they are rated 5W higher than the Suzuki bulb and cost under $3.