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Discussion Starter #1
Probably way too simple a solution available, at least I am hoping.

I just put on a K&N air filter and I have noticed that at the higher revs and under harder acceleration the bike now sputters and hesitates. So I am thinking that it is because of too much air flow and not enough gasoline to match up with it.

My old bike was so much easier to work with, the carbs were like, right there in front of you. Not so with this 2003 VL800. So I assume I am going to have to take off the seats and the tank, correct?

Will I see a nice little screw that I can turn out to make it richer?

Pictures?
 

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Bingo!

you're gonna run lean....I don't know if the mixture screw is gonna help and you might have to rejet....can anyone chime in here?????

I have a c50 so I'm not even sure if you've got a mixture screw-you should but like I said, I would think that rejetting would be your best bet for better results....good luck.
 

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yup. You'll definately need to rejet. That does mean taking out the seats and tank. The carb is right in the middle of everything underneath the tank, but easy to get to once the tank is off. Assuming that you're the only onwer of this bike and you didn't buy it used, the mixture screw is currently hiding behind a brass plug that you will need to drill out in order for you to get to it. Once you drill that out, you can easily adjustit from the side of the bike w/o removing anything. go to www.therusks.com to download the rejeting instructions. If you have any questions just feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Stitch said:
yup. You'll definitely need to re-jet. That does mean taking out the seats and tank. The carb is right in the middle of everything underneath the tank, but easy to get to once the tank is off. Assuming that you're the only owner of this bike and you didn't buy it used, the mixture screw is currently hiding behind a brass plug that you will need to drill out in order for you to get to it. Once you drill that out, you can easily adjust it from the side of the bike w/o removing anything. go to www.therusks.com to download the rejeting instructions. If you have any questions just feel free to ask.
THERUSKS.COM is apparently unavailable.

And what is the difference between rejetting (buying parts, I assume) and adjusting the fuel mixture screw?
 

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IMHO, the mixture screw is essentially for fine-tuning, and can't be relied on to compensate for big adjustments made elsewhere in the system.

The mixture screw on Volusia carbs is covered by a metal plug that needs to be drilled out before you can make adjustments, so you might as well rejet while you've got the carb and tools pulled out.

Additional info that may help:

You might also be able to diagnose the problem by working backwards. Find the specific part of the throttle range that isn't performing properly and make changes accordingly:

Pilot jet controls the first 1/4-1/3 of the throttle
Main jet is up to about 3/4 throttle
Diaphragm needle is the rest of the throttle range.
 

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I definately agree with The Vags about rejetting versus the mixture screw

I also see a lot of folks post on here about trying to get around rejetting the carbs because they're either intimidated by the job, or too lazy, or whatever other reasons. Rejetting is really not hard at all. The parts that really give you a hard time are the brass screws. There is really no way around rejetting after you change out your air cleaner so go for it. Go for it and we're always here if you need help.
 

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One thing you need to realize, before you re jet is that your fuel mileage is going down.
 
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