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hi all,

I've always run 10-40 full synthetic in my c50. I decided to try 20-50 this season. It seems to be shifting so much better (castrol full synthetic)

is it my imagination or can changing the weight of oil effect the smoothness of the shifting?

BTW - I'm not starting a "what oil do you use" thread .... just wondering if oil weight is connected to shifting

thanks
Stan
 

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not sure about weght of oil, but shifting always seems smoother after a change using the same weight
 

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not sure about weght of oil, but shifting always seems smoother after a change using the same weight
yea, I know but this is a huge difference...
 

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It's mostly your imagination. 20w50 and 10w40 both can operate a high ambient temperatures. the only difference is that the 20w50 cannot operate a lower temperatures than 10w40. see below.



it is likely the clean oil makes it feel like it shifts better.

however, if you run 20w50, you can totally ride then its extra hot out, like say in the desert. if you expect like super hot weather, 20w50 might be better. I've ran 20w50 during hot summers and 10w40 in the cooler seasons.

EDIT:suzuki actually states in their owners manual to use weight suitable for your environment, but recommend 10w40.
 

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The ''used oil'' that is drained out at oil change time is never the same viscosity as it was when it was put it in the crankcase.

The transmission gear lubrication that it does for the bike chops up the molecules and makes the oil thinner as the miles pile up between changes.

That is why the bike DOES shift better with any new oil right after the oil change. That is why the 15w40 and the 20w50 both give better shifting for a longer time into the oil change interval.
 

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I have always found my oils always seem to thicken and get black with time. If the oil is really black I know I should have changed oil sooner.

My guess is your oil was really dirty with this particular change. It would explain the easier shifting with fresher oil; but my guess is unless the parts are worn heavier oil would tend to make shifting a little harder not make it easier.

The shift linkage benefits from cleaning and oiling. You may have flushed away some junk from your shift linkage when you cleaned your bike. I use the Oil-Lite Bronze oil saturated gear shifter bushing that G-Man sells.

GMan C50 Motorcycle Shifter Bushing will improve your Shifting experience. - GMan Industries, LTD.

http://www.gmanindustries.com/shop/pc/GBushing-C50-09+-48p682.htm
 

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If you look at that posted chart 20 - 50 starts to work at 14F degrees and is OK at 32F degrees. Considering that I always let my bike warm up at idol before I ride and the fact that I'm here practicing for heII; I don't usually ride in temperatures below that and the upper temps. are more likely to occur during my rides then the lower ones.
Harder or clunker shifting is usually a sure sign that an oil change is needed.
 

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hi all,

I've always run 10-40 full synthetic in my c50. I decided to try 20-50 this season. It seems to be shifting so much better (castrol full synthetic)

is it my imagination or can changing the weight of oil effect the smoothness of the shifting?

BTW - I'm not starting a "what oil do you use" thread .... just wondering if oil weight is connected to shifting

thanks
Stan
Just curious, Is the oil you are using motorcycle oil, or car oil?
 

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stancotreau it isn't your imagination. The oil is thicker which means it provides a stronger barrier of lubricant between parts... it doesn't squeeze out of the way and allow metal to touch metal as easily...parts slide easier on the lube than on each other.

Which is why I feed mine 20W50 synthetic AND oil stabilizer....the heavier oil shifts better, has more viscosity left at oil change time and of course more viscosity when the engine is working hard on the interstate.

Folks can argue all they want about viscosity and oil additives (we can't help ourselves it seems :twisted:) , but the fact is that there are very few folks out there with as many miles on their VL800/C50's as I've racked up on mine...fewer that have as many miles without engine repairs or replacement.

Folks have what "works" for them, I have what works (very well) for me.

I recommend you also add 3 oz. Lucas HD per quart of oil, which not only smooths things out even more but quiets the angry sewing machine (and reduces wear....and helps the oil retain more viscosity between oil changes....and is excellent as a 100% replacement for the final drive oil...(says so on the label)...which comes in as pretty convenient as the large bottle easily covers both a crankcase oil and a final drive oil change...two birds, one stone :) )

UNLESS you are using Royal Purple! 1. they highly recommend against adding ANY additives and 2.several folks that have ignored RP's advice have DAMAGED their engines...and then of course posted that Lucas and everyone that recommended Lucas, oil, synthetic oil and any combination thereof were to blame for the damage they caused to their engine because of their inability to read a label...

To me it doesn't seem all that confusing that adding something that increases viscosity (Lucas) to an oil that increases in viscosity under load (RP) might not be a good idea...and...might be...possibly.... tantamount to filling the crankcase with gear oil?...but some people..........I dunno.


I use 20W50 year round (used to run thinner oil in the winter decided it wasn't worth having or necessary too have two different grades of oil on hand) and ride whether it's -5F or 100F out. 20W50 makes for hard starting below freezing, but that is the only problem I have with it.
Small price to pay for a quieter valve train, better shifting, and better overall protection of the moving bits inside the crankcase.
 

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I change my oil every 2k...will stretch to 2.5k sometimes...castrol gtx...10/40 october thru may...20/50 during the warmer temps...may - sept...been using that scenerio since 2004 and it works fine for me...got 87k trouble free miles with my 04 volusia before putting bike to rest...valve issues...and using same scenerio with my present 05 c90 purchased in 2010 with 15k...presently at 64k, with the miles I ride yearly I find myself changing the oil every 4-6 weeks... tried all the oils and yes, the synthetics were smoother, overall couldn't justify the expense considering the intervals of when I change my oil...folk will say I do overkill on my oil changing schedule...perhaps, but for the 20 minutes it takes for me to do it...cost around $25 ...new oem filter and 5 gallon jug from wallymart...feel keeping fresh oil in the engine can't hurt...
 

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