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Discussion Starter #1
Recently did a brake fluid change as well as took the caliper off, thoroughly cleaned and lubed the sliders etc. Brakes felt better but they're not brilliant. (Never will be on these bikes)
The brake line is OEM rubber, now 14 years old (Unless changed before my ownership but no record of it). No signs of cracks or any weathering. Bike passed inspection recently with decent braking performance.

Would I notice a difference changing to braided, or would that money be better off spent on some EBC sintered pads or whatever the best pad material is, instead? I've read mixed opinions, with some arguing that braided lines only feel better because you're forced to change the fluid at the same time, which is the reason for the better performance. Others say dont bother unless the OEM line can be felt/seen bulging outwards when braking is applied.
 

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Yes. You may not see in damage on the rubber but it's surely is breaking down. Mine was OEM and I changed it 2 years ago. It was 12 years old. After taking it off, I flexed it in many spots and had 2 spots that were weak. Both spots split, so luckily I caught mine just in time.
 

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Yes, you will FEEL a difference. The braided line will not flex and swell like the rubber does now, which will result in better feel and more brake bite when you pull the lever. This is one of the few upgrades I wish EVERY rider would make.
 

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Yes.
I got mine from ebay.
My bike is a 2008 with 2 inch risers.


Search for "2FastMoto 43-3/4" Braided Stainless Steel Brake Line Stretched Swingarm Suzuki"
 

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Does 2FastMoto come with additional hardware (bolts, washers, etc.) same as Galfer, and does it make a difference? Is it worth the $25 price difference?
 

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My 2008 C50 also has the original line, 5400 miles on the odometer. Should I replace the break line now, or is it safe to ride it for another season? Master cylinder was rebuilt about 7-8 moths ago when I bought my bike; break fluid had to have been replaced at the time as well.

Is this a job better done at the shop, or I can do it myself considering I've never replaced break fluid or bled a bike break line before. I probably have most of the tools necessary, except a torque wrench and Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump? I also have both the owners and service manuals.
 

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The service interval is to REPLACE the rubber brake line every 2 years, regardless of mileage. The rubber is porous and it allows air to move in and out. Air has trapped moisture which gets absorbed by the brake fluid, contaminating it and lowering its boiling temperature. This will cause brake failure if you overheat the fluid and the moisture boils off and creates a gas pocket in the system.

Replace the line and fully flush the system asap.
 

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You can do it with a wrench, rubber tube and a jar.
Drain the system, replace the hose first. Then fill the reservoir, put wrench on bleeder valve. Shove rubber tube over valve, and other end in jar. Open valve and squeeze handle a few times, holding it in the last time. Open valve and close it when there's no pressure in the handle. Refill fluid and repeat till only clear fluid comes out with no air bubbles. Make sure you keep reservoir full or you have to start again.
 

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The service interval is to REPLACE the rubber brake line every 2 years, regardless of mileage. The rubber is porous and it allows air to move in and out. Air has trapped moisture which gets absorbed by the brake fluid, contaminating it and lowering its boiling temperature. This will cause brake failure if you overheat the fluid and the moisture boils off and creates a gas pocket in the system.

Replace the line and fully flush the system asap.
Skrapiron: maintenance chart (see attached), calls for break line replacement every 4 years... is it just a good practice to replace the break line more often?
In any case, I will be ordering a break line soon and setting aside a weekend to do all this work.
 

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You can do it with a wrench, rubber tube and a jar.
Drain the system, replace the hose first. Then fill the reservoir, put wrench on bleeder valve. Shove rubber tube over valve, and other end in jar. Open valve and squeeze handle a few times, holding it in the last time. Open valve and close it when there's no pressure in the handle. Refill fluid and repeat till only clear fluid comes out with no air bubbles. Make sure you keep reservoir full or you have to start again.
Thanks! Sounds easy enough... probably is after I do it the first time...
 

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Skrapiron: maintenance chart (see attached), calls for break line replacement every 4 years... is it just a good practice to replace the break line more often?
In any case, I will be ordering a break line soon and setting aside a weekend to do all this work.
He's very knowledgeable. With all the stuff in his head, it was probably just a simple slip. You can trust his wisdom. 4 yrs would be the max, thats my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I've ordered Galfer Brake Line Kit, picked-up some DOT 4 break fluid and a case of beer. Next weekend will be busy :)

Do i need to changer braided line as often at the OEM rubber line?
They're supposed to last longer.
If you find air trapped in the system which you cant get out, either remove the caliper and raise it above the bike (hang off the rafter) for a couple of hours, or pull the brake lever in, cable tie it and leave it overnight. This guide is pretty fool proof, not done a full bleed and replace on motorbike but did it with hydraulic bicycle brakes and its just the same.

 

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Thank you everyone!
Got a quote from a reliable shop: $220+tax for 2 hours of work, no parts included. Considering no special tools required, I will attempt to do it myself.
 

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What's the difference in the price between rubber and braided? How long do you plan on keeping the bike?
 
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