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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had to replace fuel cap on my 2008 C50 due to neglect by previous owner. I did manage to transfer the key pins from the old cap lock to the brand new one, so that I did not have to carry two keys or replace the rest of the locks on my bike. It was not a fun or cheap endeavor ($140 for a new fuel tank cap plus hours of work). After much beer and hours of head scratching I did manage to disassemble both fuel caps and the lock tumblers myself down to the bare pins and springs, but even if you find a locksmith willing to do it, it will probably be another $200-$300, and much PITA...

So the question is: how do I extend the useful life of ignition lock and fuel cap locks? Also the helmet and tool box cover locks? I know door locks usually take a bit of graphite lock lubricant (unless you have a Multi Lock or similar - graphite binds locks with high tolerances - learned that expensive lesson myself), but I'm not sure if that would potentially damage ignition lock electrical components. There is much controversy online about using graphite/ WD40/wet lubricants in locks exposed to humidity and dust ingress (I ride in the rain, I wash my bike...sometimes), so I'm not even sure what to do here.

Fuel cap lock will most probably be fine, but considering there is a bit of regular petroleum (?) based lubricant in the lock already, and the fact that it is new, I won't mess with it for a while. My primary concern is oxidation and corrosion of internal components, but also maintaining any water tight gaskets that might be in the ignition. Also, most wet lubricant attracts dirt, and make the matters somewhat worse overtime, unless applied periodically. Basically, once you start, you have to keep going with cleaning and lubricating that (key) hole.

P.S. A bit off topic: are there any threads related to preventative/periodic maintenance of C50 bikes? I haven't reviewed that portion of the service manual closely yet, but I would imagine there is more to it than oil/filter changes and valve adjustments.
 

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I am of the school that any lubricant is better than nothing, but I understand your concern with graphite. I'm not a fan of silicon either, as it tends to dry out. I use white molibrium grease in a spray can in most of my locks. I use it sparingly, or it goops up and it will attract and hold dirt. Every spring, I flush the old lube out with KROIL (a great penetrating oil and rust breaker), blow it clean with compressed air and then apply a light coat of the moli grease. Seems to work well with both my cars and my bikes. Royal Purple also makes a synthetic lube called Synfilm, which I've heard great things about, but never personally used. (My son uses it on his guns and fishing gear).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am of the school that any lubricant is better than nothing, but I understand your concern with graphite. I'm not a fan of silicon either, as it tends to dry out. I use white molibrium grease in a spray can in most of my locks. I use it sparingly, or it goops up and it will attract and hold dirt. Every spring, I flush the old lube out with KROIL (a great penetrating oil and rust breaker), blow it clean with compressed air and then apply a light coat of the moli grease. Seems to work well with both my cars and my bikes. Royal Purple also makes a synthetic lube called Synfilm, which I've heard great things about, but never personally used. (My son uses it on his guns and fishing gear).
Thanks! "white molibrium grease in a spray can" - can you recommend a brand? Do you also use it on ignition lock?
 

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FireManC50;5057714 P.S. A bit off topic: are there any threads related to preventative/periodic maintenance of C50 bikes? I haven't reviewed that portion of the service manual closely yet said:
The rear hub needs the heavy weight oil changed periodically (dont remember what the mileage is, I change mine once a year-15 minute job max start to finish), coolant, brake fluid (even though on my 2007 C50 with 96,000+ miles, I am still oem brake fluid and coolant-my daily commuter-76 miles round trip...I know I know I know, they should be changed periodically but the bike has never overheated and the silver disk in the brake reservoir is very visible), rear brake drum pads but you may never wear them out-still on original brake pads and 60+% is still there-I tend to use engine braking more than wheel braking..
My old girl:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The rear hub needs the heavy weight oil changed periodically (dont remember what the mileage is, I change mine once a year-15 minute job max start to finish), coolant, brake fluid (even though on my 2007 C50 with 96,000+ miles, I am still oem brake fluid and coolant-my daily commuter-76 miles round trip...I know I know I know, they should be changed periodically but the bike has never overheated and the silver disk in the brake reservoir is very visible), rear brake drum pads but you may never wear them out-still on original brake pads and 60+% is still there-I tend to use engine braking more than wheel braking..
My old girl:
Thanks! I do all that. My local dealership crooks said I needed new rear break pads on 3000 mile bike when I bought it. Now I know better, but man was I pissed off I paid two hours labor for nothing...
 

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Thanks! I do all that. My local dealership crooks said I needed new rear break pads on 3000 mile bike when I bought it. Now I know better, but man was I pissed off I paid two hours labor for nothing...
yea, there is a wear indicator on the drum brake housing...occasionally it may needed adjusted but that is just a turn of the bolt...
 
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