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Discussion Starter #22
Well, I took everything apart and put it back together again. Still no brakes. I'm at a loss. The only parts of the rear brakes I touched were those necessary to get the back wheel off - the brake rod and the brake torque link. I can fully press my brake pedal and...nothing. The brake rod moves roughly 1/2" when I do this, which doesn't seem right to me, but as I said I didn't touch anything else so I'm assuming it was always like that. I took some pics this time around - maybe someone can spot what I might have done wrong.

The pics show how everything is put together (inside and out), the angle the brake arm is to the camshaft, and the ridiculous amount the adjusting nut has been put in (and still no brakes).

If anyone can spot the problem, please let me know. If not, I'll take her into the dealership (it's only five minutes from my house) and have them see if they can solve the issue. (I'll post the results here if so).

Thanks for all the help so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Spins freely by hand....makes me wonder if you are trying to adjust the brakes while the bike is jacked up???


You cannot adjust the brakes while the bike is up on a jack, when you lower the bike the brakes are going to be way too tight and will burn up. With the bike on a jack it releases the tension on the rear brake rod.


Lower the bike to the ground and readjust the brakes.


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I was checking the rear brake action with the bike jacked up. During the week I thought that maybe the bike had be on the ground and "settle" to make the proper alignment and adjustments.

I dropped her down yesterday and now she's resting on her wheels.

Still no brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Maybe he just broke his brakes and he's too broke to take a break to get his broke brakes fixed?
If I can't do this myself it'll be so. I'll have to wait for a few more pay checks before I can take her in to the dealership. I have a property tax bill due at the end of June that'll need to be paid first. :crying2:

Oh, and eating is nice too. :wayhappy:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
This is a real nail biter.
For me it's a head banger. :brick:

I just don't know what I might have overlooked, broke, bent, lost, or screwed up. Everything is as the Clymer guide (very useful, but not the greatest I'll admit) and various Youtube vids shows it should be. I'm guessing it's just an adjustment issue, but I don't get how things could be so far out of whack just from changing the brake shoes.
 

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I thought in one post you said they work but you had to screw the adjuster way in, this is why i thought may be worn out drum
 

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Check towards the front near the pedal and make sure everything is good there, if so i would say you have the wrong brake shoes, may be even try your old shoes back on and see if you have brakes
 

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Check towards the front near the pedal and make sure everything is good there, if so i would say you have the wrong brake shoes, may be even try your old shoes back on and see if you have brakes
If everything is as it's supposed to be, this can be the only answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I still have the old shoes, so I'll try putting them back in next weekend (still working long hours) and see what happens. To me the old shoes look identical to the new ones, but maybe I'm missing something. The part numbers check out, but perhaps the shoes were in the wrong box. ?

If the old shoes work out I'll just leave them in. The old shoes were still good, but as long as I had the rear wheel off I wanted to have the experience of changing them.

I still think the short travel distance of the brake rod seems wrong - I think my local dealer has a C50 in stock and if so I'll drop by and see if the brake rod moves as little as mine does. But again I didn't touch anything other than the parts pertaining to removing the rear wheel, so I don't know how I could have messed something up front.

Will keep in touch and let everyone know what's going on.
 

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I still have the old shoes, so I'll try putting them back in next weekend (still working long hours) and see what happens. To me the old shoes look identical to the new ones, but maybe I'm missing something. The part numbers check out, but perhaps the shoes were in the wrong box. ?

If the old shoes work out I'll just leave them in. The old shoes were still good, but as long as I had the rear wheel off I wanted to have the experience of changing them.

I still think the short travel distance of the brake rod seems wrong - I think my local dealer has a C50 in stock and if so I'll drop by and see if the brake rod moves as little as mine does. But again I didn't touch anything other than the parts pertaining to removing the rear wheel, so I don't know how I could have messed something up front.

Will keep in touch and let everyone know what's going on.
Have someone sit on the bike and press the brake peddle while you lay beside the bike and watch the brake lever on the rear wheel hub.

Note how far the brake lever on the hub moves and whether the hub moves with the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
:curse::brick::curse:

Well, I put the old brake shoes back in this morning and tweaked the brake arm a bit, and now I have working rear brakes. I still don't have a clue what was going on, the new shoes looked exactly like the old ones and I didn't mess with anything. I'm going to leave the old shoes in for now (they were still good anyways), tighten everything up and go for a ride.

But any tips on readjusting them would be appreciated. I've got about an inch of travel in the brake pedal before the brakes feel like they're working. They feel soft but I can lock the wheel if I stomp on the pedal.

And thanks again for all the help and support.
 

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:curse::brick::curse:

Well, I put the old brake shoes back in this morning and tweaked the brake arm a bit, and now I have working rear brakes. I still don't have a clue what was going on, the new shoes looked exactly like the old ones and I didn't mess with anything. I'm going to leave the old shoes in for now (they were still good anyways), tighten everything up and go for a ride.

But any tips on readjusting them would be appreciated. I've got about an inch of travel in the brake pedal before the brakes feel like they're working. They feel soft but I can lock the wheel if I stomp on the pedal.

And thanks again for all the help and support.
My concerns would be that if you didn't have that inch of travel before with the old shoes, and now you have that amount, something is still wrong....whether it be an assembly issue, or a spring missing or in the wrong place....etc...

Would hate to see you enjoying your ride and suddenly the back wheel locks up because it is not properly assembled.

Again, if you have that inch of travel now, and you didn't before, something is wrong. Bring it to your local shop and let them have a look at it.

.
 
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there is a significant mechanical leverage built into the linkage to operate the rear brake. If you have 1 " of travel at the pedal you will see much less movement at the rear brake arm. If you ride with a passenger be sure you don't have the brake adjusted too tight. As the suspension settles with more weight, it changes the way the linkage operates. I think the manual suggests 3/4" - 1" of brake pedal travel. You are not going to get a rock hard pedal as you might with a hydraulic operated brake. I had adjusted my brake and it was fine. I took my sweetie for a scoot and had the rear brake dragging. I didn't get it hot enough to turn the paint color on the drum. It was a real challenge trying to back off the adjuster with it being hot!
 
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