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Thanks for the post, it will help me in the future.
 

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moenko said:
A relay is an electric switch which, when energized, will close a second, totally independent circuit. Below is a drawing I made for a simple setup of wiring two add'l driving lights. Note that the rocker switch gets its energy from the IGNITION circuit and when turned on, will close an independent circuit (in the relay between poles 87 and 30) and safely run your lights (or anything you connect) on it's own, fused(!) circuit.

ok, so why is there power from the battery and the ignition? into the relay?

if you swicth the switch off, you would still have power from the battery?
would you not?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hehe, don't know about "smart" but it it's ingenious nonetheless. [email protected], I wish I could show you an open relay I have here at home, you would laugh at how simple of a device it is. When you send power to it from the options connector (between 85 and 86), you energize a small coil that acts as a magnet. Once the coil is energized, it "pulls" a contact down until it meets another contact and thereby closing a new circuit (between 30 and 87) straight from the battery. This new circuit can handle as much Amperage as the relay is rated for (usually 30 Amps in our applications). Depending on the wire size you use, make sure to match the in-line fuse to that wire (chart is on previous page).

Imagine that: You ask only around 3 Watts from the options connector to energize a magnet, and it will close a circuit of up to 30 Amperes (!!) for you; yet your ignition switch would never know, it's only being "tickled" by a barely noticable "ballast" of 3 Watts.

There are several styles and varieties of relays, you only need the most basic one, a so-called SPST (single pole single throw) relay with 4 posts, cost is about $5 in any auto parts store. A cheap peace of mind!

OH - lastly, if you plan on having the lights on ALL THE TIME whenever the bike is running, you can cut out the manual switch altogether. The relay will always be powered and so will your lights when you turn your key. What I don't like about that setup is that when you start your bike, you need a good amount of Amps from the battery to turn the starter - the add'l lights will take up to 10 Amps from the battery before you crank it, making this setup unattractive to me, but it will work.
 

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moenko said:
A relay is an electric switch which, when energized, will close a second, totally independent circuit. Below is a drawing I made for a simple setup of wiring two add'l driving lights. Note that the rocker switch gets its energy from the IGNITION circuit and when turned on, will close an independent circuit (in the relay between poles 87 and 30) and safely run your lights (or anything you connect) on it's own, fused(!) circuit.

ok, so why is there power from the battery and the ignition? into the relay?

if you swicth the switch off, you would still have power from the battery?
would you not?
Pin 85 and 86 zap the troll that lives inside the relay. Once he wakes up, he flips the switch that connects pin 30 and 87. A relay, quite simply, is just an electrically controlled switch using a low current input to control a high current output. Your starter is fed by a relay that is controlled by the start button, because all the current sucked up by the starter motor would melt that itty,bitty starter button.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Re: wire

krislord said:
big ed said:
And when you finish the math here's a chart to select the wire gauge:
I think the amps are a little high on that chart.
Kris, I think they are pretty accurate. Keep in mind that in low-voltage circuits more current is usually flowing than in high-voltage circuits. You can't compare this chart to your home wiring, obviously it would be totally out of whack.
 

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Hello

I am trying to "save" the ignition switch failure possibilty and am trying to use the diagram Moenko has included. Seems simple but got a quick question my spotlights only have single (positive) wire feed from the headlight bucket. They are a mechanical ground light, I have run the negative from the battery but what should I do now?

My thoughts are feding a second wire out to the spotlights and unhooking the mechanical ground in each light and basically adapting my mechanical ground to go direct to the battery?

Edit: I went ahead and ran sepearte ground wires which allowed me to follow the schematic to a "T". Also upgraded to 4411 sealed beams as well, much brighter!

Thanks for the schematic Moenko, made life a lot easier
!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Glad it worked for you Buttsy :wink:
 

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Thanks!

After reading this, and many other posts, I finally got my lightbar built. Used a relay and a relay socket to simplify wiring, but aside from that one minor modification, I followed the wiring diagram. Couldn't have been easier! Excellent help for us newbies!
 

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Part #

Anybody have the part number for this relay? An/or where to buy?

Hopefully a national chain store.

How about the swithes (on/off) that some of you have used?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
TD, there is no part number. Go to your local Autozone or PepBoys or similar and get a 4 pole (SPST) automotive relay rated for 30 Amperes - the clerk will know - it's about 5 bucks.

Cheers,
Moe
 

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Great info...awesome wire diagram [Thanks moenko]
but one more question / clarifcation?

By using the AUX plugs in the headlight housing, you're lights are on "only when the igintion switch is on".. but [unless you include a switch] always on when the igition is on. This is great for most accessories, but I was wondering about the driving lights....

The regular headlight turns off while the starter is cranking.. how can we do that for the light bar? and shouldn't we be doing that?

Bob
 

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I just bought a relay last Friday at an Autozone. Look in the section where they sell the driving lights. $4.99 for a 12v 40amp relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Timewarp said:
Great info...awesome wire diagram [Thanks moenko]
but one more question / clarifcation?

By using the AUX plugs in the headlight housing, you're lights are on "only when the igintion switch is on".. but [unless you include a switch] always on when the igition is on. This is great for most accessories, but I was wondering about the driving lights....

The regular headlight turns off while the starter is cranking.. how can we do that for the light bar? and shouldn't we be doing that?

Bob
Hi Bob!

You are correct that the lights will be on all the time just like your headlight if you don't use a switch. Since the AUX connector runs through the ignition switch, anything plugged into that AUX will behave just like your headlight and get interrupted while pushing the starter :wink:
 

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If I recall correctly the AUX connector remains powered up during starting. Unlike the headlight. Relay needs to be controlled by the headlight feed to cut power during starting.

moenko said:
Timewarp said:
Great info...awesome wire diagram [Thanks moenko]
but one more question / clarifcation?

By using the AUX plugs in the headlight housing, you're lights are on "only when the igintion switch is on".. but [unless you include a switch] always on when the igition is on. This is great for most accessories, but I was wondering about the driving lights....

The regular headlight turns off while the starter is cranking.. how can we do that for the light bar? and shouldn't we be doing that?

Bob
Hi Bob!

You are correct that the lights will be on all the time just like your headlight if you don't use a switch. Since the AUX connector runs through the ignition switch, anything plugged into that AUX will behave just like your headlight and get interrupted while pushing the starter :wink:
 

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C50T2006 said:
If I recall correctly the AUX connector remains powered up during starting. Unlike the headlight. Relay needs to be controlled by the headlight feed to cut power during starting.
That's what I see.. my lightbar is plugged in to the AUX and remains on.
But after reading all that you folks are saying about the IGN switch, I want to wire in the relay...

Since I'm doing all this, I want to fix it so the lightbar is off while the starter is cranking.....

Suggestions for the best place to tap into the headlight feed? is it in the headlight assmbly itself? [if you can be as specific as possible, I'd appreciate it... sometimes I have a hard time visualizing wo pics or diagrams :oops: ]

Thanks for suggestions...
Bob
 
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