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How to guide: VS1400 drive on a VL800/C50

106K views 187 replies 78 participants last post by  martin.kaspar 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I’m putting this information together because it’s nice to have all the information you need is a single place without having to resort to a search engine.

These instructions will explain the basic tools, items and modifications necessary to install a VS1400 drive assembly on a VL800/C50 using a VL800/C50 driveshaft and spacer.

What’s the purpose of this modification?
To achieve a higher/sustainable top speed
To reduce engine vibration from high RPMs while traveling 70+ MPH
To increase fuel efficiency (arguably)

Tools Needed:
Metric box wrench set (up to 22mm)
Metric socket set
*Tork wrench
Metric allen wrench set
Snap ring wrench (straight/inner)
Needle nose pliers
*Rubber or plastic mallet
Several round rat tail files (or a 9/16” drill bit)
*Corded drill
Small parts brush
Bike lift or equivalent

Items Needed:
VS1400 final drive assembly (SKU: 27300-38845)
VS1400 spring for driveshaft (SKU: 09440-30008 )
C50/VL800 drive shaft (SKU: 27151-41F00)
C50 or VS1400 axel spacer (SKU: 64772-34201 or SKU: 09180-17088 )
VS1400 oil seal (SKU: 09283-30026)
VS1400 circlip (SKU: 09381-40003)
*Cotter pin (SKU: 04111-40308 )
Honda Molly 60 paste (or equivalent)
75W-90 gear oil

* Indicates optional

While the VS1400 drive assembly uses the same diameter driveshaft as the VL800/C50, the C50 driveshaft and spacer will need modifications to work properly with the VS1400 drive assembly. Otherwise, the driveshaft may put undue stress on the bearings.

As you can see, the VL800/C50 driveshaft is much larger than the VS1400 driveshaft:


This is a VL800/C50 driveshaft after it has been machined; modifications from the original driveshaft are noted in red:

(Admin Note - In the above picture the shoulder only gets pushed back 3/16" of an inch, not 3/8", tool used for undercut was 3/8" wide)

The shoulder, measured from the drive end should be 15-3/4" after the shoulder is pushed back as in the picture below.


The original VL800/C50 spacer can be shortened by 2mm, or it can replace it with another spacer that’s 2 7/8” in length. Make sure the replacement spacer is hardened steel. Here’s a stock VS1400 spacer next to a replacement spacer:


A replacement oil seal and circlip should be purchased from a Suzuki dealer. While the original circlip may be in good condition, it’s better to have a spare on hand incase the original breaks during assembly.


Pick up some Honda Molly 60 grease (or equivalent) from a local Honda dealer. Make sure the grease contains at least 44% molly (as recommended by Suzuki). Standard automotive molly grease should not be used as it does not offer adequate protection. The molly grease will be applied using a small parts brush to the splines on the driveshaft and drive assembly. I also applied it to the axel shaft and spacers.


Find a well lit/flat surface to work on; this modification can take several hours to complete so plan for enough time (it took me aproximately 2 hours). Secure the bike to the stand and proceed to remove the drive assembly using the Rusks’ “Checking Driveshaft Lubrication” guide found on the VR site.

It’s a good idea to put something underneath the front tire to help support the bike. When you remove the drive assembly and wheel, the bike becomes front heavy and may try tipping over.


Using a file (or 9/16” drill bit if preferred), enlarge the mounting holes for the VS1400 drive assembly. Take your time and make sure everything is lined up properly by test fitting the drive assembly multiple times. Forcing the drive assembly onto the frame will damage the threads on drive assembly. I used a rat tail file with a high speed drill to elongate the holes.


Attach the modified driveshaft to the VS1400 drive assembly using the circlip. Slide the seal onto the driveshaft and push it down until it is flush with the drive assembly. The seal keeps the molly grease in and contaminants out.


Slide the driveshaft into the u-joint and secure the drive assembly to the frame. If the shaft will not go back in all the way, try rotating it. If that doesn’t work, pull the drive assembly back out and try using a long broom handle to realign the u-joint that’s inside the bike (you may need to use a flashlight to see if the u-joint is straight). It took me a couple tries to get it to align properly.


Now is a good time to check your rear brakes for wear and/or clean them.


Insert the modified (or new) spacer into the VS1400 drive assembly. Assemble the wheel and brakes in the reverse order of the Rusks’ guide mentioned above. If possible, use a tork wrench and tighten everything up to specification (foot pounds can be found in a service manual). I didn’t have a tork wrench on hand, so I used the ole’ GNT (good n’ tight) scale. Once everything is back together, put the bike in neutral and gently spin the rear wheel. It will spin smoothly if everything is aligned properly. Fill the drive assembly with gear oil and you are done!


Take it easy on the drive for a little while. If something isn’t aligned properly, it will likely present itself within the first ~100 miles. Just like new brakes, gears take a little time to “mesh” together. Also, park the bike in an area where it can be monitored for minor oil leaks.

Edit: 2/19/23 - Whiskey - Changed 1/2" bit to 9/16". If it's wrong, Captain told me to do it. 🤷‍♂️
 
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#52 ·
This just could be the most lucid and informative thread I've seen on the VR. I was in the early phases of considering a mod to my C50's final drive, and I REALLY wanted some intelligent, technically based info. You guys filled the bill.
Interestingly, the outcome of the process is that I'm going to pass on the modification. I love my C50 and the way she rides. I love the way she jumps off the mark, the way she can climb most hills without downshifting, and the extra umph! she gives me in every gear. The high speed noise and vibes do pose a problem, and that's why I was considering the mod. But then I remembered I'm an olde pleasure tourer-- back roads and loafing along at 55-65. I'll put up with the noise and vibes when I'm forced to take to the slab... but the rest of the time, I want my Black Beauty just the way she was born.
Thanks again for a terrific thread.
-OBF
 
#53 ·
oldebikerfarte said:
This just could be the most lucid and informative thread I've seen on the VR. I was in the early phases of considering a mod to my C50's final drive, and I REALLY wanted some intelligent, technically based info. You guys filled the bill.
Interestingly, the outcome of the process is that I'm going to pass on the modification. I love my C50 and the way she rides. I love the way she jumps off the mark, the way she can climb most hills without downshifting, and the extra umph! she gives me in every gear. The high speed noise and vibes do pose a problem, and that's why I was considering the mod. But then I remembered I'm an olde pleasure tourer-- back roads and loafing along at 55-65. I'll put up with the noise and vibes when I'm forced to take to the slab... but the rest of the time, I want my Black Beauty just the way she was born.
Thanks again for a terrific thread.
-OBF
Bro, FWIW: I can take My C50 with DJ Drive down to 24 mph in 5th gear (no bucking), and gently coax it back to highway speed; all without downshifting.
Of course, My intake and exhaust are unmodified, and the road surface must be absolutely flat.

That's a substantial testimony to the healthy powerband of the VL800, and You will not lose the pulling power, or cruising manners.

Take another member's bike (with the upgrade drive) for a ride. You will not be sorry!
 
#54 ·
Putting a VL 1400 final drive on the bike probably this weekend. Kinda like the look without the fake swingarm. If I go swingarm less, does the bike lose any structural strength?

Also, Aric Balster does the grinding and milling of the shaft to fit into the final drive. His cost to me $175.00 shipping included. That includes the drive shaft, seals and cucrlip or whatever its is called. Items you will need to buy are snap ring pliers, moly 60 grease, brushes to apply the grease, some green loctite and final gear oil.
 
#57 ·
Re: 1400 final drive

sambo67 said:
I am still trying to locate a drive for my vl800. Any ideas on where to find what I need?
Please start on page 1 of this thread.

There is all you need to know. Several photos and detailed explanations thanks to the very hard work done by Oregonlan.

He made it easy for me, an engineering knincompoop, to understand.

He also gave me the name of a machinest Aric to cut the shaft for the mod.
 
#59 ·
impolite question about cost

If you willing to say, what kind of price range are we talking about for this DJ mod?
Paul

[/u]
 
#60 ·
Try various salvage yards in your area or nationwide. Then talk to Aric about the shafts. I think he still has some on hand.

You might get lucky and find someone who doesn't know what he's got and pay a good price like I did ($150 + $50 shipping). I know I got ripped off on the shipping, but $200 for this drive is a DEAL!
 
#61 ·
Just paid $300 shipping included for a brand new VL 1400 drive.

Got it on ebay and talked the guy into closing the auction. Paid via Paypal and hed it in two days.

Heavy sucker. Aric is machining the shaft for $175. shipped and have decided to remove the fake swing arms for a cleaner look.

Will take install photos and post them here.

However, Oregonlan has already done that and I learned a lot from his advice.
 
#63 ·
I would presume on any bolt or screw that you use to put attach it to the bike.
I used Blue as it was either that or red I had handy and red is more permanent.
 
#64 ·
passenger comfort from this mod?

Hi folks,
Do your passengers notice a difference in comfort after the mod?
Paul
 
#65 ·
sry no fender fluff :(
 
#68 ·
Just pickup 1 container of 75-90 hypoid gear oil. Place the bike upright and fill until the oil level is flush with the bottom of the hole. Cap it and enjoy.

FYIY, 1 bottle will fill your drive 3 - 4 times...
 
#69 ·
Thanks very much. The pucker factor may be going up as I am having the drive installed tomorrow and there is a 70% chance of rain. I have a 30 mile trip back home afer installation. I will be shifting gears rather carefully.

I so do appreciate your timely and helpful advice.
 
#70 ·
VL1500 drive = VS1400 drive

Hi,
I saw in one of the posts that the 1500s and the 1400s have the same gear ratio. Does that mean that a VL1500 drive would serve just as well as a VS1400 drive for a Volusia?
thanks
 
#71 ·
Re: VL1500 drive = VS1400 drive

paul_mcdowall said:
Hi,
I saw in one of the posts that the 1500s and the 1400s have the same gear ratio. Does that mean that a VL1500 drive would serve just as well as a VS1400 drive for a Volusia?
thanks
Yes. About the only difference is that the 1400 drive uses the same size axle as the 800. The VL1500 uses a slightly larger axle, hence the axle hole in the drive is larger. Have whoever mods your driveshaft make you a bushing to adapt the 1500 axle hole to the 800 axle.
 
#72 ·
axle trim?

Thanks 472viper. Does the vl800 axle need to be modified in the same way it is for a VS1400 drive?
Thanks
Paul
 
#73 ·
Re: axle trim?

paul_mcdowall said:
Thanks 472viper. Does the vl800 axle need to be modified in the same way it is for a VS1400 drive?
Thanks
Paul
No modification to the axle itself for 1400 or 1500, however an axle spacer (slides over the axle and sets proper spacing between final drive and wheel hub) is critical. Any OEM axle spacer (1400/800 or C50) can be shortened, or a spacer cut from the proper size DOM tubing, cut to correct lenth will work.
 
#74 ·
oops

Sorry, I said 'axle' but I meant the drive shaft. (d'uh)
Paul
 
#76 ·
Re: oops

OregonLAN said:
paul_mcdowall said:
Sorry, I said 'axle' but I meant the drive shaft. (d'uh)
Paul
The VL800 driveshaft needs modifications as mentioned in this guide. A VS1400 driveshaft would have to be lengthened.
Correct, a modified C50/VL800 driveshaft will work with a C90/VL1500 or VS1400 drive. 1400 driveshafts have to be lenthened and C90/1500 made shorter. Many people choose to mod the 1500 or 1400 shaft and keep their C50/800 shaft unmolested case they ever want to reinstall the old drive, which only happens when you sell the bike. Or you can try to find another 800 driveshaft and have that modified. Modifying an 800 driveshaft is a little bit simpler process, but both methods require the service of a machine shop, and work equaly well.
 
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