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Finally did this the past couple of days on my bike with the help of this thread, and Brimans instructions. Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed and made it possible for the non-so mechanically inclined (me) to still be able to perform my own maintenance and avoid the dealership who I don't trust for a second to work on my bike and do the job right. Plus saving a wad of money is like icing on the cake.

Also in case anybody is interested my bike had about 14,000 miles and had never had the valves adjusted. Just for reference, I measured the clearances of each valve before I started adjusting to see how off they were. I found all of them to consistently be about half of the specification, that is the intake valves had tightened to about 0.002 inches and the exhaust 0.004 inches. Your valves may or may not do the same thing, so of course I recommend checking them in accordance with the maintenance schedule in the owners manual. I just wanted to put that out there in case there are others like me putting this off because of the difficulty or whatever, if you make sure you have the right tools and plenty of time and follow the info in this thread then if you can change your own oil you can do this too.
 

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Well, I am in the middle of doing this and ... I f'ed up. I dropped a valve nut in the intake side of the back cylinder. I can't see it. I used a dentist type of tool to poke around in there but I can't hear it moving around. What now??? Can I leave it there?
 

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Hey - I just wanted to throw out a huge thank you to everybody who put this info. and tips out there. I completed my own valve adjustment for the first time today. I got the dealers service plan when I bought the bike, so I never had to do it on myself before. I used the jpaige method, and I managed to do it without pulling the throttle body (hallelujah!) I didn't even put the bike on a stand -- I don't mind getting low to work on her.

One tip I learned the hard way - when turning over the engine with your socket, make sure it's in neutral. Otherwise, you might get a surprise when it creeps forward an inch.
 

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nice pics, thanks!
 

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looks like a pretty straight forward adjustment except for one question i have.

for instance if im adjusting the valves in the rear jug. Do I adjust both the intake and exhaust valves when they are both closed on RT? Im a bit confused about this after reading that each cyl has two TDC points. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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looks like a pretty straight forward adjustment except for one question i have.

for instance if im adjusting the valves in the rear jug. Do I adjust both the intake and exhaust valves when they are both closed on RT? Im a bit confused about this after reading that each cyl has two TDC points. Thanks for the help guys.
Yes. re read the 1st post after the 22nd photo.
 

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Yes. re read the 1st post after the 22nd photo.
thats what i was reading when i got confused. So again, get the cylinder to TDC (both valves closed and piston up) and adjust the exhaust and intake valves at the same time?
 

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thats what i was reading when i got confused. So again, get the cylinder to TDC (both valves closed and piston up) and adjust the exhaust and intake valves at the same time?
you are correct. Make sure tho you are on the compression stroke.
It is possible to time 180* out
Have at it! :applause:
 
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Well, finally got my valves adjusted and thought i did them wrong so i pulled everything apart and checked them all again and they were all in spec. I hear a little valve chatter at idle but i hear quite a bit at highway speeds. Tell me this is normal? Everything is within spec and set correctly. Just wish i had a friend with a boulevard so i could hear theirs.... Overall it was a pretty easy adjustment. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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With my windshield I hear the valves pretty well. Can hear that they're even. So far the sound has changed a little twice since I got the bike and I've gone in and adjusted. I adjusted when I got the machine (several out of ideal a little), at 5000 miles (3 out a little, 2 of them tightening exhaust valves), and at 10,000 miles (think it was 4 adjusted a bit, both intake and exhaust tightening). That noise is a good indicator of change, but have to not let the noise change creep up on you.

I have to wonder whether my numerous short and relatively cold trips has something to do with the need for valve adjustments. My bike lives in a severe use zone because of that. Short trips interspersed with 2 up over the Dragon!
 

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after the 600 mi.
Every 7500 mi.
So your one behind.
 

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Great DIY!

I got my 2007 C50T about a year ago with about 6000 miles. I've got just under 10,000 now and really love the bike.

Just did the valve adjustment. Easy job using your excellent instructions! Thanks for putting in all of the work. This whole site is excellent!

The ticking of the valves has been hard to get used to. Since the adjustment it seems to have gotten a bit more noticeable. (They were just a bit tight.) From some of the posts I've read it sounds like the ticking should go away after the bike warms up? Is that right? I work about 25 miles from home but they are still ticking away by the time I get to work.
 

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Never really goes away.
May get a little softer and/or you ears eventually tune it out as background noise.
Me, prolly my V&H pipes even w/ the Smartpartz baffels.
 

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Getting ready to do this on my '08, so this is a timely post/bump. Thanks.

Only concern I have is fuel running out of the line when I take the tank off. I guess I'll just run it nearly dry, then do the adjustment.
 

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Getting ready to do this on my '08, so this is a timely post/bump. Thanks.

Only concern I have is fuel running out of the line when I take the tank off. I guess I'll just run it nearly dry, then do the adjustment.
Ya a whole coupla tablespoons worth...........check valve.
both halves of the connector unit hafta be there for the fuel to flow.
Having the low fuel will make the tank lighter to move.
 
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