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Harry, Nice work. I had my switch replaced, and the bike has either run right or died shortly after starting. I can cycle the key, and get it to run right. May take several trys though. I checked the wiring diagram, and it showed all wires common with key on. I checked mine, and the Orange/yellow was not common. I checked my other bike, and it was not common there either. I am convinced it is the switch. Both have light bars, both are 2005 C50 (one CA the other is other 49). I put the light bars on a relay and used a headlight wire, instead of the Auxiliary, to fire it, so the lights would go out during starting. Next time you have the tank off, would you mind ohming your switch out and tell me what you see? Do you have a light bar? I think Suzuki did not beef up the switch when they wen to Fuel Injection, and the light bar overloads the switch, melting the plastic, as you note. Thanks, Richard
I have a used switch and no key. I wanted to ohm it out also, can't get the barrell out. Is there a trick to it?
 

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Harryp,

That fix was the ticket. I rolled out my garage last week looking to fire the bike up for a quick ride, but had no instrument gauge or headlight. The taillight was on and turn signals worked. A search on this site got me to this subject and I was on my way. I was able to knock the fix out in under an hour thanks to your instructions and pictures.

I have OEM light bar which apparently put the extra load on the ignition switch. The plastic was slightly melted which prevented the tabs from moving up and down freely in the white cross shaped thing. Suzuki should know better :x

It works fine now, but I would have to consider the fix temporary, as I would hate to get stranded miles away from home. I might have to bite the bullet and purchase a new ignition switch. All for a small plastic part that probably cost a buck or two to manufacture.

Again thanks. You saved the day!
 

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I think the main reason the ignition switch gets fried (melted) is because of the engine heat.

Test it yourself:
1. Ride at highway speeds for more than 1 hour, while riding you can put your hand in front of the space on the left hand neck cover. You'll notice a lot of heat.
2. After the hour, stop at a gas station, rest, put some gas in your tank... but check under the left neck cover. You'll notice a lot of heat emanating from the engine up to the neck of the bike. In fact, you can touch the frame there, and it will be hot.

I surmise that the heat from the engine is flowing up the neck and melting electrical components there. No wonder some motorcycles don't have neck covers! It's a way of dissipating the heat.
 

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Looks like I am going to have to give this a try. I am now having problems with a second switch. I replaced it the first time back in 2006 so I am getting 3 years out each switch. This is ridiculous!! Been riding for almost 30 years and never had a problem like this. Now its happened twice already. I'm getting to the point where I dont trust my bike to take it on a long trip.
 

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SiouxperKev said:
Looks like I am going to have to give this a try. I am now having problems with a second switch. I replaced it the first time back in 2006 so I am getting 3 years out each switch. This is ridiculous!! Been riding for almost 30 years and never had a problem like this. Now its happened twice already. I'm getting to the point where I dont trust my bike to take it on a long trip.
Maybe this is the place to post this:
On long rides (longer than 1 hour) at interstate speeds, I've noticed the following odd behavior with my stock OEM C50T 2006:

1. I'll stop and rest at a gas station; fill up the tank; use the rest room; check out the energy drink they have on hand; then hop back on the bike.
2. What's odd is when I hit the ignition switch, my bike will have a hard time turning over. Sometimes I have to add throttle to it.
3. Why's it difficult to start during a long ride?

Thank you.
 

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Trent said:
SiouxperKev said:
Looks like I am going to have to give this a try. I am now having problems with a second switch. I replaced it the first time back in 2006 so I am getting 3 years out each switch. This is ridiculous!! Been riding for almost 30 years and never had a problem like this. Now its happened twice already. I'm getting to the point where I dont trust my bike to take it on a long trip.
Maybe this is the place to post this:
On long rides (longer than 1 hour) at interstate speeds, I've noticed the following odd behavior with my stock OEM C50T 2006:

1. I'll stop and rest at a gas station; fill up the tank; use the rest room; check out the energy drink they have on hand; then hop back on the bike.
2. What's odd is when I hit the ignition switch, my bike will have a hard time turning over. Sometimes I have to add throttle to it.
3. Why's it difficult to start during a long ride?

Thank you.
Trent:

No idea what's up there. Might want to start a new thread so some others will see it and maybe have an answer. Good Luck.
 

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Helpful information that I could have used earlier. Here’s my experience which I took up the line to Suzuki USA. In the end it was a complete waste of time but valuable lesson learned about how Suzuki stands behind their products.

Background: Turn ignition switch on, turn signals would work but not the fuel pump, headlights etc. Problem was sporadic, hard to replicate. Originally thought it might be an ignition problem per recall but VIN was just outside the recall range. Finally able to replicate it at the dealer who (like I) concluded it was the ignition switch. Bike had 7,000 miles but now out of warranty.

Action: Suzuki repair shop had a 2 week wait so took it to an independent shop (and master mechanic that teaches motorcycle electrical systems at the community college) who replaced the ignition switch. Problem solved. Reason for failure? Three of the four wires in the wire harness were longer than the main orange wire putting constant tension on the orange wire to fail at the quick connect and the ignition switch. The three wires had been spliced by the manufacturer. Pictures show it quite clearly. Confirmed disconnect with ohm meter. It was bound to fail the only question was when. Took high resolution pictures and wrote a letter to Suzuki USA in Brea, CA illustrating how it was manufactured defectively from the beginning. No response, not even acknowledgement of receipt of the letter. After six weeks called Suzuki got a customer representative trained to say that he too was a motorcycle enthusiast and it must have been me, given that it happened out of warranty. That’s code for Suzuki could care less. Offered to send the part and they could do their own inspection. Don’t bother.

Lesson learned: When these type of problems occur is when you really find out what manufacturer’s really stand behind. In this case, not much. Sold the bike, bought another brand which has exceeded my expectations and resolved to never own anything Suzuki again.
 

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SiouxperKev said:
Trent said:
SiouxperKev said:
Looks like I am going to have to give this a try. I am now having problems with a second switch. I replaced it the first time back in 2006 so I am getting 3 years out each switch. This is ridiculous!! Been riding for almost 30 years and never had a problem like this. Now its happened twice already. I'm getting to the point where I dont trust my bike to take it on a long trip.
Maybe this is the place to post this:
On long rides (longer than 1 hour) at interstate speeds, I've noticed the following odd behavior with my stock OEM C50T 2006:

1. I'll stop and rest at a gas station; fill up the tank; use the rest room; check out the energy drink they have on hand; then hop back on the bike.
2. What's odd is when I hit the ignition switch, my bike will have a hard time turning over. Sometimes I have to add throttle to it.
3. Why's it difficult to start during a long ride?

Thank you.
Trent:

No idea what's up there. Might want to start a new thread so some others will see it and maybe have an answer. Good Luck.
Thanks for the advice...I've set up another thread.
 

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5540Tim said:
Helpful information that I could have used earlier. Here’s my experience which I took up the line to Suzuki USA. In the end it was a complete waste of time but valuable lesson learned about how Suzuki stands behind their products.

Background: Turn ignition switch on, turn signals would work but not the fuel pump, headlights etc. Problem was sporadic, hard to replicate. Originally thought it might be an ignition problem per recall but VIN was just outside the recall range. Finally able to replicate it at the dealer who (like I) concluded it was the ignition switch. Bike had 7,000 miles but now out of warranty.

Action: Suzuki repair shop had a 2 week wait so took it to an independent shop (and master mechanic that teaches motorcycle electrical systems at the community college) who replaced the ignition switch. Problem solved. Reason for failure? Three of the four wires in the wire harness were longer than the main orange wire putting constant tension on the orange wire to fail at the quick connect and the ignition switch. The three wires had been spliced by the manufacturer. Pictures show it quite clearly. Confirmed disconnect with ohm meter. It was bound to fail the only question was when. Took high resolution pictures and wrote a letter to Suzuki USA in Brea, CA illustrating how it was manufactured defectively from the beginning. No response, not even acknowledgement of receipt of the letter. After six weeks called Suzuki got a customer representative trained to say that he too was a motorcycle enthusiast and it must have been me, given that it happened out of warranty. That’s code for Suzuki could care less. Offered to send the part and they could do their own inspection. Don’t bother.

Lesson learned: When these type of problems occur is when you really find out what manufacturer’s really stand behind. In this case, not much. Sold the bike, bought another brand which has exceeded my expectations and resolved to never own anything Suzuki again.
Dude, I feel your pain. I really do. I'm feeling like I got jipped with Suzuki. I even called their customer service just now to ask a question about their recall. They said they closed at 5 PM PST, and I called them at 4:45 PM!!! :evil:
How do they get to leave early?
Anyways...I guess I got what I paid for...
Any suggestions on a bigger bike, that's not a suzuki; something that comes with better customer support, and a company that cares about the quality of their bikes (non HD)? Maybe Yamaha or Honda or Kawasaki? The Kawa Vulcan 900 Classic LT? The Nomad riders are fanatical about their bikes...
:p j/k...i'll like my zook 4 now
 

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Everybody's different but I used the experience to really evaluate what I wanted. Mine was equipped similar to yours. Up to 60-65 mph was fine when cruising secondary roads for a couple of hours. I liked the rider-up position and foot boards. Beyond that, as someone said, its not an all day bike. An hour or so at higher speeds, I began to feel worn down and more importantly my reflexes were not as sharp. Two up riding meant lots of stops.

What worried me even more were the brakes, even from the beginning. The bike is too heavy to only have one front disc and one drum brake. Suzuki trades off rider safety for cost savings. Too many times I worried (using the SEE technique) if I could stop in time if that cager waiting to pull onto to the road didn't see me.

Though I like the cruiser I found that I liked the sport touring even more. I looked at the Yamaha FJR, Honda ST and BMW. I bought a used BMW R series with ABS. Yeah it cost more but what I realized was that gas mileage is in the 50's although the motor is 50% bigger. I can be on the bike for hours at 70+ and not feel tired. Its more nimble and agile and weighs roughly the same. The brakes are fantastic. The bike is a frequent entry in the Iron Butt contests and there are several on-line forums with lots of helpful information. Insurance was almost the same. Yeah parts are expensive but these bikes have been built to take a beating. I thought I would dislike the rider position but I actually prefer it, less strain on back and arms.

Would likely have stayed with Suzuki but their attitude and actions did me a favor. Had I stayed with the cruiser bike, I would have gone with the V-star 1300. I think its gotten good reviews and has real brakes. Good luck in your decision!
 

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5540Tim said:
Helpful information that I could have used earlier. Here’s my experience which I took up the line to Suzuki USA. In the end it was a complete waste of time but valuable lesson learned about how Suzuki stands behind their products.

Background: Turn ignition switch on, turn signals would work but not the fuel pump, headlights etc. Problem was sporadic, hard to replicate. Originally thought it might be an ignition problem per recall but VIN was just outside the recall range. Finally able to replicate it at the dealer who (like I) concluded it was the ignition switch. Bike had 7,000 miles but now out of warranty.

Action: Suzuki repair shop had a 2 week wait so took it to an independent shop (and master mechanic that teaches motorcycle electrical systems at the community college) who replaced the ignition switch. Problem solved. Reason for failure? Three of the four wires in the wire harness were longer than the main orange wire putting constant tension on the orange wire to fail at the quick connect and the ignition switch. The three wires had been spliced by the manufacturer. Pictures show it quite clearly. Confirmed disconnect with ohm meter. It was bound to fail the only question was when. Took high resolution pictures and wrote a letter to Suzuki USA in Brea, CA illustrating how it was manufactured defectively from the beginning. No response, not even acknowledgement of receipt of the letter. After six weeks called Suzuki got a customer representative trained to say that he too was a motorcycle enthusiast and it must have been me, given that it happened out of warranty. That’s code for Suzuki could care less. Offered to send the part and they could do their own inspection. Don’t bother.

Lesson learned: When these type of problems occur is when you really find out what manufacturer’s really stand behind. In this case, not much. Sold the bike, bought another brand which has exceeded my expectations and resolved to never own anything Suzuki again.
WELCOME to the VR site, new member.
 

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BIG TIME BUMP !

I have been having some ignition issues this summer and they have been getting worse.. So I searched and found this thread. I printed out the instructions, took the bike out of the garage to have more room and then prepared myself mentally for any and all possible problems.

Surprise ... these instructions are so good that I was done the whole job in less than 1/2 hour and I took my time and double checked everything. I had no problems what so ever. No cursing ... no throwing tools ,,, no skinned knuckles ... nothing but sweet success. The instructions are perfect. Oh and I now have a bike with a working ignition switch without a $150 set back.

Thank you harryp



Maybe a moderator would consider making this a sticky.
 

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This needs to be stickied.

There is only one issue with the instructions though. On my '04 the bolt heads are rounded and can't be unscrewed. I guess the ignition has never been replaced.
 

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Okay...last week I came home from the bike shop after having my mechanic check his installation of my left chrome switch housing only to have my '06 C50T not respond to turning they...only tail light and turn signals worked.. The problem? My Stebel would blow on it's own. It would turn off after depressing the horn button. On the way to work that morning @ 4:30 Am, I noticed that my headlight would flash/dim when I went from hi to low beam and vice versa. That afternoon while en route to the shop and in traffic, I noticed my headlight reflecting on the tailgate of a pickup in front of me and it looked almost (at times) like I was running a modulator. Well, the mechanic double, triple and quadruple checked the switch wiring while cycling the ignition (key) switch about a hundred times. We thought the problem was fixed, but darned if the horn didn't go off by itself once on the way home! I wasn't sure if the headlights were still 'modulating'. Well, I found this thread and took the back cover of the ignition switch off only to find one of the contacts stuck down and melted in place! I found a used '09 switch and removed the 'white cross' , lubed everything well with dielectric grease, reassembled and viola! She works, again. Will test ride in the morning. Not sure if the Stebel thing is related, but I have a hunch it may be. Thanks to all.
 
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