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I'm doing this from memory, so if anyone see's something I've missed, please let me know. I know Special Ed did a "how-to" with pics, but the links in his threads are not working (at least on my pc). Therefore, I hope this can be beneficial for a few of you.

  • Make sure your bike is cool (hasn't been driven lately)
  • Use the kickstand, not a bike lift. The angle will make the rad hose drain more easily
  • Remove the passenger and driver seats
  • Remove the fuel tank bolt
  • Disconnect the speedo housing
  • Disconnect the fuel tank wire connector and quick-connect fuel line under the fuel tank
    • I always place a rag directly below the quick connect when I disconnect it because a small amount of fuel will come out
  • Pull tank back to expose the rad cap (i just removed my tank, but it's not necessary. If you DO remove the tank, fuel will not leak out if you carry it parallel to the ground)
  • Remove the 2 chrome covers on the clutch side of the bike (directly under the toolbox, and the one to the right of that one)
  • Open the cap from the coolant res
  • Look at the black rubber hose coming from the bottom of the radiator and follow it back until it meets the water pump under the toolbox. Place a catch pan under the bike where these two meet
  • Remove the clamp and pull hose away. FYI...coolant will come out quickly, so be ready, and have a couple of shop towels just in case it gets messy
  • When it has drained completely, invert the end of the hose to drain remaining coolant (don't shake it more than twice or you're playing with it)
  • Find the smaller black plastic tube that connects with the coolant res.
  • Place container under it
  • Remove clamp and drain res (FYI...I removed my res and cleaned with CLR because there was a lot of crud in it. Only took an extra 5 mins)
  • Reconnect clamps and hoses from rad to water pump and on the coolant res
  • Use 50:50 mix of distilled water and coolant. Make sure it's OK for an aluminum radiator. I just bought a Prestone pre-mix that was OK for any radiator. If you use tap water, it will rust out the rad. Make sure to use distilled, or again, just buy pre-mixed.
  • Fill up radiator slowly with a total of 1500 ML (according to the owner's manual). When the fluid reaches the top of the radiator neck, rock the bike back and forth to release air bubbles. Continue to fill. Rock. Repeat.
  • Fill coolant res to "max" or "full" line
  • You can crank the bike and let it run, which will also release some air from the radiator, and then you can add more. I filled mine, rocked, filled, etc. until I thought it was enough, then rode around and checked it the next day. I ended up adding a little bit more, but not much.
  • FYI...you can measure the amount you take out of your bike (once it's in the catch pan) to see if you were very low, or if it contained anything. My coolant was WAY past due to be cleaned. It was milky.
Good luck! Hope this helps.
 

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Milky usually isn't a good thing. It's usually a sign of emulsion. In cars, anyway, when you drain the crank case for an oil change and the oil looks like chocolate milk that means it's time to do a headgasket. It's water crossing into the oil.
Hopefully not the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Milky usually isn't a good thing. It's usually a sign of emulsion. In cars, anyway, when you drain the crank case for an oil change and the oil looks like chocolate milk that means it's time to do a headgasket. It's water crossing into the oil.
Hopefully not the case.
It was actually crud built up in the coolant res. The rad coolant was fine, but thank you. It's been over 1,000 miles since, and no issues.

Sent from my PG06100
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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I did the change yesterday following these directions.

To everybody enjoying a C/M50, save yourselves some $$ and do this. It is eeeezy!
 

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Don't laugh, but I still haven't figured out how to disconnect the (quick disconnect?) fuel line on my 2007 C-50. Is there a trick to it? I HATE paying for valve adjustments, plus do my mechanics really do ALL of the tappets and adhere to specs?
 

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If you pop up the back of the tank and peek under with a flashlight you will see that the connector has a slot in it with a white clip. You have to kind of pull down on that clip while pulling on the hose and it will come of. As with most quick release, sometimes it pops right off and I look like a rockstar to anyone watching, but most of the time there's some cussing involved. :curse:
 

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On a 2005 c50, I was told that there's a false bolt on one of the covers, anyone know which one it is? I'm trying to do mine hopefully this weekend along with an oil change.
 

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On a 2005 c50, I was told that there's a false bolt on one of the covers, anyone know which one it is? I'm trying to do mine hopefully this weekend along with an oil change.
There is indeed a false bolt. I don't recall which one it is, but it's easy enough to figure out: it's the one that turns very easily but doesn't come out no matter how much you turn it.
 

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Ok, any idea on how to break the bolts free then? I tried with a ratchet set and I've tried with a screw bit set. Only thing I haven't really tried yet is an impact tool (mainly because I don't have one)
 

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I changed my coolant this past weekend. False bolt is the upper right one on the rearmost cover. I have had my covers on and off several times since the bike was new, so I obviously have no problem getting the bolts loose. All I can suggest is spray them the best you can with WD40 using that little tube that comes with the WD40, let them sit overnight and try again. You obviously can't heat the bolts because those covers are plastic - at least they're plastic on my 2012 version.
 

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I changed my coolant this past weekend. False bolt is the upper right one on the rearmost cover. I have had my covers on and off several times since the bike was new, so I obviously have no problem getting the bolts loose. All I can suggest is spray them the best you can with WD40 using that little tube that comes with the WD40, let them sit overnight and try again. You obviously can't heat the bolts because those covers are plastic - at least they're plastic on my 2012 version.
Yeah, they're plastic on the 2005's as well.
 

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Just changed the coolant on my '06 C-50. First time, but bike only has 6,500 miles on it. It was pretty easy. Fuel line did require a bit of cussing, but eventually it popped off. Refilled cooling system with Zerex Asian premixed coolant.
Took the opportunity to change oil & filter, clean the air filter and install the new Mustang touring seat(s) my wife gave me for Christmas. :smile2:
 
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