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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just need a little help figuring out which wire is which on the harness.

Their are 2 plugs per side with three wires.

Right side I believe is
Green
Black
black /white

Left side
Brown
Black
black/white

I'm just struggling to figure out which wire is the running lights and which is the turn signal. I assume black is ground ?

Thx
 

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There were about 3-4 posts about a wiring harness diagram recently. Having not looked at the diagram, reason would say the Black is ground and the B/W is running light. You can check it all with a meter. Black will short to ground. Running light will turn on with the key and directionals with the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have gone looking on the boards and online for my answer but havent found it yet. All the working diagrams I've seen have different colors then my 2014. I'll sit there with the multimeter to figure it out I guess. Honestly would have thought a memeber wpuldnt be able to answer this for me quickly though. 🤷‍♂️
 

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I sold my Volusia in 2010 so it has been a while. Someone may yet chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It would appear the hay day of this board was back in the early 2000's lol. Ah well 🤷‍♂️

So I sat out side yesterday and did some poking with the Multimeter. Brown and Green are a constant 12v so I figure they are the running lights. Black/white appears to be ground and that leaves black as the turn signal. After wiring up the fronts and having the back lights disconnected, I get running lights; but when u use the indicator the light flashes once and stops. I also have both turn signal lights lite up constantly on my display.

I tried just about ever combination of wiring with just one front light and still couldnt get it to work properly. Either dime running and doesn't nothing flash, or bright running and it just turns the light off complete when using indicator.

I'm starting to wonder if the fronts and back lights are connected with some of the same wires, and me having them unplugged is causing the issue. Either way, for something so simple; this has been a complete pain in the ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmm.....that's not correct for my bike though. My has a brown and a green in the front lights but the rest looks right(have to double check rear). Just Not two (Gr) wires. I assume that's either green or green with a red stripe
Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Hood Vehicle door
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I finally got them working, sorta. They started working after I found one bad connection; yet it seems to work sporadically and my cluster light stay on. 🤔🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Lights working 100% Hyperflash fixed with low draw relay. Only issue is cluster lights stay on, and flicker when using signals now. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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The cluster light is energized by the turn signal switch and relay. If the light is on, even when the switch is off, then you are feeding constant 12v from your LED signals to the indicator on the cluster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The cluster light is energized by the turn signal switch and relay. If the light is on, even when the switch is off, then you are feeding constant 12v from your LED signals to the indicator on the cluster.
So wire In some diodes? I'm not the best at electrical, more mechanical/fab/tuning
 

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No. Get a multimeter and figure out why you're dumping constant 12v to the indicator light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No. Get a multimeter and figure out why you're dumping constant 12v to the indicator light.
It has happened now with two different set of lights, 2 wire inconsistent, and 3 wire Led. It's also happened to other members, starting to think the gentleman was right about the cluster lighting up if a bulb is out. Don't think it has anything to do with the wiring at this point.

Question, do you have aftermarket turn signals?
 

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No. I left well enough alone and kept the OEM. You have two choices: Figure out what you did wrong (which means use a multimeter and find out why you have constant 12v going to the circuit) or replace the aftermarket parts with OEM that you know works.
 

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My guess is something with the LED lights is making the system think there's a burned out bulb (an open branch on the circuit), though if that was the case, the OEM relay would fast flash. Before you added a second relay, did you check the voltages at the OEM relay? Come to think of it, did you add a second relay or did you bypass the OEM?
 

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If I am not mistaken, the OEM relay has a minimum load requirement to open the circuit correctly. LEDs do not introduce enough load which will cause the OEM relay to malfunction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My guess is something with the LED lights is making the system think there's a burned out bulb (an open branch on the circuit), though if that was the case, the OEM relay would fast flash. Before you added a second relay, did you check the voltages at the OEM relay? Come to think of it, did you add a second relay or did you bypass the OEM?
Exactly what I was mentioning, not enough load so makes the system think their is a bulb out. This is exactly why I mentioned wiring in diodes; that you quickly seemed to dismiss. As for the the relay, I put in a low load 7 pin relay to replace the stock one. It stopped the hyper flash but not the cluster light.
 

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Except that the system is set up to fast flash when a bulb is out. There is no failure circumstance where the indicator light will be on solid. The fact that it is dimming slightly when the indicators flash tells me that something is dumping 12v to the circuit when it is not supposed to. Putting in a diode won't solve that issue.

What relay did you put in the bike? Are you absolutely confident that it has the SAME pin outs and SAME energizing pattern as the OEM?
 

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LEDs are diodes. That is what the D stands for.
 
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