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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed the I was leaking a small amount of gear oil on my rear rim while on vacation. I'm guessing that a gasket or seal on the back side of my vs1400 drive has failed. It's not a big leak but it's big enough to leave some on the side of the rim.
When I noticed it, I had the wife sit on it and hold it upright while I checked the fluid level. It was still to the bottom of the fill hole but it was warm as we took it a few blocks to the auto store, in case I needed some oil.
How hard is it to change the seal (gasket) on the back side of the unit? Is there any surprises I should be aware of?
Thanks for any info,
Fred
 

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The 1400 final drive should be very similar to the vl800 final drive in this book.

There is no need to remove the large driven bevel gear or any of the shims behind the bearing plate that contains the seal you likely need to replace.

Make sure to note that the breather hole is clear when applying the sealer and installing the bearing plate with the new seal. Failure to keep it clear will cause additional leakage.

It would be best If you could locate a 1400 manual but careful consideration of your steps should allow the use of the vl800.

http://www.jaycepatterson.com/Jayce/PinkBook/Trans_111-133.pdf
 
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This is quite interesting being as I suspect I have a similar situation.
So only the cover comes off, new seal, then back on?
 

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This is quite interesting being as I suspect I have a similar situation.
So only the cover comes off, new seal, then back on?
Yes, just read the manual for the process to remove the cover, remove the seal, install the new seal. clean up and apply sealant and re install and torque the bolts.

Don’t over grease the drive splines that mate with the wheel hub. That will make it look like the drive is leaking oil again.

Always use some good moly grease to fill the seal lips before you install over the drive hub.

Use care when sliding the cover and new seal over the drive hub so the seal lips aren’t damaged or deformed.
 
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The backing plate is held in place with sealant from the factory. Once you remove the bolts around the perimeter, you use two screws, threaded into the available holes in the plate. Run them down until they make contact with the outer case, then continue to crank. Eventually, they will force the sealant to break and the plate will release. When you re-seal the drive, use an oil and solvent resistant sealant, either from the dealer, or from the auto-parts store. The process is pretty simple, but it can get messy with stray oil.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Could it be that as I ride, the hot oil could be coming out the breather hole. I ask do to the fact that when its on the kickstand, there isn't any oil on the ground. It's only found on the rim after riding it.
 

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I had a similar condition. Last weekend while working on the bike, I found what looked like oil on the rim. It turned out to be simple grease from the spline gear that had heated up. It's been over 104degs at work and on the drive home very hot here in SoCal. I found what looked like oil dripped on the rim, but it turned out to be the grease I used at the time of the last tire change (about 5k miles ago). The hub heated up and some what liquified the grease. No seal leaks, just grease from the drive splines.


I would recommend pulling the wheel off the bike, then check your drive splines You will likely see the issue when you pull the wheel. Too much grease.


 
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Discussion Starter #10
Finally got around to replacing the seal and figured that I'd also grease the drive shaft. Everything went smooth till I went to put it all back together. The 2 friction plates kept sliding around as I put the cover on. After numerous attempts, it finally went together. I used Permatek differential and axle gasket maker. We'll see how that works.
Drive shaft came apart easy enough and looked as though it would've been good for a few more years, but it's cleaned up and ready to be installed.

FYI.... the bolts needed to remove the cover were M5×.8×40 or #10×30 both threaded in. Turns out my leak was from the gasket maker. It had been opened before. They used red RTV gasket maker. I know that stuff on sight. It leaked at the rear towards the lower .
 

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Finally got around to replacing the seal and figured that I'd also grease the drive shaft. Everything went smooth till I went to put it all back together. The 2 friction plates kept sliding around as I put the cover on. After numerous attempts, it finally went together. I used Permatek differential and axle gasket maker. We'll see how that works.
Drive shaft came apart easy enough and looked as though it would've been good for a few more years, but it's cleaned up and ready to be installed.

FYI.... the bolts needed to remove the cover were M5×.8×40 or #10×30 both threaded in. Turns out my leak was from the gasket maker. It had been opened before. They used red RTV gasket maker. I know that stuff on sight. It leaked at the rear towards the lower .
I ended up doing mine last fall.
It's rather surprising how little holds it in place.
 
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