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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, I don't recommend the headlight mod to anyone.

Second off, I did the garage opener at the same time. I would've loved to kept them separate but you're going to have to deal with it.

I'm going to bounce around so try to pay attention.

First off, I'd bought an HID headlight kit. It was one that was recommended on this site. I want to say it was 50 bucks but it was plug and play.

I took my Christmas bonus and bought a garage door and opener from Lowes. It's nice, because my old door was manual.
I keep an opener in my jacket pocket but it's the pocket I use for toll money and it got weird. I'd also have to stop and fumble to open the pocket, reach in and feel the buttons out. It was a hassle for my fat sausage fingers.

Bought a backup, single button opener on ebay for 20 bucks, shipped.

I read the forums about the Pass light button and liked the idea, didn't care for switches on the chrome speedo bezel or neck. I also didn't like the idea of taking my hand off the bars to operate it.
I could've wired it in to the bike but then I would've needed a transistor to bring the voltage down since my opener used a single 2032 coin battery.

I chose to crack open the left instrument box dealy.

I took the headlight apart (two little Phillips screws at 4 and 8 o'clock)

I spent a long time measuring continuity and voltages and referencing wiring diagrams with different colors and years.
My bike is an '08. YMMV.

I disconnected the switch box harness and completely removed it from the bike. I got an old coat hanger, cut off the end, and fed it through carefully.
Once through I put a wire in it and squished it nice and tight. Tight.
There's barely enough room for what's in there already.
I pulled my wire through.



I was smart... lucky enough that when I pulled it through the two cut ends were on the switch box side.



I used my soldering iron to remove my red and white wire from the pass switch and soldered my new wires.



After much experimenting I cut the exposed end off the red wire and wrapped it with tape.
I took the white wire and soldered it to the white wire on the rocker switch for high/low beams.



I tucked it all back together (somehow), re routed the wire bundle, and back into the headlight housing.

I was complaining of warbling sound after I did the HID the first time so I mounted the ballast on a bracket.



Now, I cut the wires I added in. Opened the garage door opener, and soldered them in to switch 4.



I used the soldering iron to melt the case a little bit so I could close it with the wires sticking out.



Then secured it with a ziptie.



The end result is I click the pass button to open my garage door now.

Now, the stock bulb is a 55/60 watt. At 12 volt it's a 5 amp draw. The HID's draw almost half that so I'm not worried about drawing too much current through the wire. The HID only draws peak current during the inrush of initial startup. This is why I don't advise doing this: on a stock bulb you'd be pulling high 9 amps.

I wanted to put a diode near the relay to reduce the load on the wiring but I couldn't isolate what I needed because my diagrams were all different colors than what my bike is.

Anyway, my lights are bright and I can open my garage door.
 

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Ingenious, and a lot of work........I just used a relay in the headlight bucket and the "flash to pass" button activated the relay which in turn activated the garage door opener. All the work was in the headlight bucket and no worries about disturbing the switch housing. Was a long time ago but I didn't have any problems with using 12 volts to activate the garage door switch. I left the "flash to pass" feature in place.
 

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Hmmm... I turn the blinker on. Downshift to first. Let go with the left hand for 1-2 seconds to reach into my windshield bag, slip my finger onto the garage door opener hanging on the left side of the bag. Press firmly. Drive into the garage. Try to remember to hit the button to close the garage door when I get inside the house.

Time to install... five seconds.

I do like your mod though. Very cool to simply hit the pass switch and drive into the garage. I considered doing this mod last year.
 

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Good work and cool idea.How do you like the hid light I was thinking of doing it as well would like to see a pic of light on if u could also is it alot brighter than the stock?
 

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Another easier version is to install the GD opener behind the side cover with a push button attached to the cover. Solder the PB to the door opener.
 

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Another easier version is to install the GD opener behind the side cover with a push button attached to the cover. Solder the PB to the door opener.

I used this one on the Vulcan...........until the opener bit the bullet. Then I just stuck the new one onto the inside of the fairing with some velcro. Worked good.
 

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Mine is in the pouch of my Desert Dawgs bar chaps on my VTX. I activate it with the tow of my shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, putting a radio transmitter inside a metal bowl cuts the range by about 2/3.

But it is a lot nicer pulling into the garage now.
 

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Another choice is to use a $10.00 handle bar mounted Weatherproof GPS case. Did that before buying the Desert Dawgs.:wayhappy:
 

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It's probably not as much of an issue as one could make it out to be, but what if you are starting to ride away and (inadvertently) hit the pass button, causing your garage door to open for the duration of your ride.

Adding the door opener mod while leaving the pass feature active is a great idea. but with a few extra components, you could probably save yourself from any accidental operation of your garage door by having two electrical conditions met before the pass button activates the door opener.

Perhaps it could be wired to only open the door IF another standard switch was activated first before pressing the pass button. You could tap off the hazard switch, requiring the hazards to be activated before pressing the pass button, but only for the secondary operation of the door opener. The high beam flash would still function as usual. Or maybe even the brake switch. Pulling the brake lever just far enough to activate the brake light, followed by the pass switch, Could be configured as the only working combination to activate the opener.

Granted, the idea might be overkill, but it could drastically reduce false or accidental activation of the garage door opener.
 

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I just bought one of those key fob openers, glued a magnet to the back of it and stuck it to the front mounting bolt in my saddlebag. It stays dry in there, only takes a moment to reach back into the bag and hit the button, and it's high enough in the saddlebag that nothing has ever hit it or caused a problem with it. It has the additional benefit of being cheap, requiring no wiring, and being easily removable when I sell the bike.

Sometimes the simplest solution is the best.

:shades:
 

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I've trained my wife to open the garage door when I pull into the driveway. This mod can be somewhat unreliable...it only works about 80% of the time.
+1., If I am in the dog house, it never works... :biglaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's probably not as much of an issue as one could make it out to be, but what if you are starting to ride away and (inadvertently) hit the pass button, causing your garage door to open for the duration of your ride.

Adding the door opener mod while leaving the pass feature active is a great idea. but with a few extra components, you could probably save yourself from any accidental operation of your garage door by having two electrical conditions met before the pass button activates the door opener.

Perhaps it could be wired to only open the door IF another standard switch was activated first before pressing the pass button. You could tap off the hazard switch, requiring the hazards to be activated before pressing the pass button, but only for the secondary operation of the door opener. The high beam flash would still function as usual. Or maybe even the brake switch. Pulling the brake lever just far enough to activate the brake light, followed by the pass switch, Could be configured as the only working combination to activate the opener.

Granted, the idea might be overkill, but it could drastically reduce false or accidental activation of the garage door opener.
The potential is there but, as I stated above, putting the opener in the metal headlight bucket reduces the range by 2/3.
Where I can open my garage door from my side porch while leaning out the door, I cannot open it until I am 6-8 feet away with the bike opener.

Also, even if you wired it into the pass switch to keep it active, who's to say you don't accidentally hit it then, too.
 

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Also, even if you wired it into the pass switch to keep it active, who's to say you don't accidentally hit it then, too.
Actually, I was referring to a "Logical AND" form of wiring. only when two signals are activated at the same time will it trigger a third action.

Using two relays, you can tap off of the hot side of a turn signal switch for one relay coil, then tap off the hot side of the Pass button for the other relay coil. Connect their outputs in series to trigger the door opener button.

It's an uncommon combination to have a turn signal on and the Pass button pressed. Chances are, you'll be well out of range of your garage door if you do so, thus eliminating an unexpected door opening. You can press any garage door opener all you want when you're away from home and it won't affect your garage door. When you come home, hit the turn signal switch, then press the Pass switch until the door starts to open.

As for range, since you have the remote already disassembled, solder a 6" insulated wire to the antenna connector and pass it through whatever housing you mount it in. That will give you suitable range. I'd recommend mounting the opener near the air filter. The filter cover won't interfere with the signal (unless it's a chrome cover).
 

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Yes, but you just may open someone else's garage door... There is a crime alert for these openers. Not that many frequencies.
 

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If anyone's garage door is from 1997 or newer, then it has a rolling code with the odds of another device opening it being about 1 in 3.5 billion.
 
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