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Discussion Starter #1
Scratching my head over this one. Would appreciate your ideas.
1993 Intruder 1400, 16,000 miles with low restriction pipes(not straight).
It sat for the last ten years. Tank was full of rust and crud. Valve under tank with the screens were clogged. All other fuel lines were clear. Carb needles & seats were stuck in place as were the vacuum slides. No changes to the jets(that I'm aware of). I think I have thoroughly cleaned every orifice. I put clear fuel lines and a clear filter to watch for contaminates. No impurities noticed.
I can start it on ether into the rear air cleaner but it won't continue to run. Lots of popping and backfiring. Front plug is wet but fires when tested against the outside of the cylinder. It's black while the rear is brown & dry (ether?). Choking doesn't appear to make a difference. I poured a good dose of Sea Foam into the tank. Seems to have made an incremental improvement but maybe my imagination. I haven't ruled out sticking valves yet but in general the engine sounds solid.
What have you guys run into in situations like this? In Particularly Intruder 1400s but long time storage problem solutions might help.
 

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Is it possible that the air filter is clogged making it run too rich? Is your idle mix screw adjusted correctly? Idle RPM screw set correctly? Do you have slack in the throttle cables (as in throttle isn’t always slightly open)? Float height set right? Are you getting strong spark? Is it possible the timing is wrong? Any of those could cause issues.

Also, check that the fuel pump is working. Mine was full of rust for a bike in similar condition.
 

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It is common for a barn find like this to be a monumental pain in the BUTT to get running right. First off, if there is rust in the tank, there is rust everywhere that fuel was left sitting. The tank needs to come off and not only be de-scaled, but relined as well. In the long run, it may be cheaper to just replace it. The carb needs to be pulled and EVERYTHING inside replaced. Jets, needle valve, diaphragm - everything. The engine also needs to be tested for compression as rings can rust and seize in place, leaving you with no compression. If you have good compression, add a few tablespoons of marvel mystery oil to the top, replace the spark plugs and crank it for a minute or so. Then completely change the oil. There are no short cuts when it comes to raising a bike from the dead like this.
 

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I would also suggest you check out the rubber boots that attach the carb to the engine...vacuum leaks will cause all kinds of problems. It may have other problems with the fuel system (does it have a pump? or how about a vacuum operated petcock?)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A doctor owned it before me. I'm assuming no one messed with the idle screws or float level. Eyeballing the floats looks ok. It has a pump and I can see fuel flow in the clear lines. No trash from the tank is coming through. I'm not comfortable with the vacuum diaphragms yet. The back one cleaned up good and slides unobstructed. The front is a little restricted in its movement. These carbs are not easy to get to.
 

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You can't really "clean" anything on the bike. Mechanic in a bottle will not resolve years of neglect or remove debris from fuel passages. You need to pull the carbs and do a complete rebuild on both. Otherwise, you're just going to spin your wheels, although it is winter and you will have a lot of time on your hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tips. I'm comfortable that the tank and lines to the carbs are good. I have clear line and can see any trash, if there is any. I did not "boil" the carburetor. I sprayed the heck out of it with B-12 and Brakeclean. Compressed air seemed to pass through orifices. If I go in again, I'll run a wire through the tiny tubes.
 
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