Suzuki Volusia Forum banner

FREE - Perfect your clutch, with manual page...

90K views 135 replies 91 participants last post by  Tergazzi 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Complete clutch adjustment by the book, with scanned manual page. Below the notes, I have inserted the scanned image of the Suzuki Service Manual. Enjoy!

Yes, I've read many of the relatively recent threads on clutches, but it is seldom noted that minor adjustments just affect one of the three areas of the clutch system. There is a huge difference between a complete clutch adjustment and anything less. Most of the very helpful people like MistressK are trying to give you a bite-size quick solution, presuming that the rest of the system is within tolerances and that you know how to tell when they aren't. That's very helpful and great in certain situations, but the more of these bikes I ride, the more need I see for a real and complete adjustment.

Background Scenario:
Between a year of battling Cancer and being so busy working since then, for a long while I had relied on the clutch adjustment done by the dealer when I had my last tires installed. To quote the mechanic: "I adjusted your clutch, no charge. It sucked long, hard and deep!" I had begun to rationalize that maybe I ride too hard...It does have high mileage, [sound familiar?] I didn't like the clutch so much, but it was the ride up to the HUB in May that convinced me not to bother getting used to what they thought was a clutch adjustment.

Context:
After reading through the clutch posts of the last year or so, I see what the problem often is...partial adjustments and not using blue loc-tite OR depending on dealership mechanics who regularly look for that "short-cut".

Since I finally had the time tonight and my pain levels were lower, I did a complete adjustment exactly as specified in the Suzuki Service Manual and I now have what feels like a new clutch that's broken in again. Prior to the last year and 1/2, I had been doing it every 6 months or so, since I ride every day that it isn't pouring down rain. Letting the dealership mechanic adjust it just didn't work out, cause he didn't do the whole process.

Lever adjustment, not enough. cable housing end, not enough. Since there are 3 sections to this system, they all need to be adjusted to make sure you get that new clutch feel and real grab.

It only takes about 15 minutes and will make a world of difference in almost every case where a complete adjustment has been more than 5,000 miles past.

I'll spell it out here, since sometimes the Rusks site isn't working and besides, why not have the whole thing right here within the thread?

Here it is:
By the book, the slack at the lever should be 10-15mm, which is 0.4"- 0.6", or up to approx. 9/16" if you prefer to think of it that way. The cable end should be screwed in toward the lever as far as it will go up against the locking wheel and still let the locking wheel have enough threads to lock. This will give you enough room to make a fine-tuning for your particular feel.

At the far end of the cable wire itself; [under the center of the 3 left side covers] is where the most important adjustment is made. After loosening the outer locking nut, you use a narrow blade screwdriver & turn that screw counter-clockwise 3 turns or so. Then turn it inward slowly till you feel resistance become tangible. Back it off 1/4 turn and note that position so you can make sure it stays there. Then tighten up the locking nut again, without overtightening it.

At the bottom end of the cable shielding, where it goes into the case cover: The double nuts there are another key component. The top one locks the cable slack at the bottom end and really benefits from some blue loc-tite. That keeps it from vibrating loose and losing the adjustment.

In my case, the cable wire was also dry and I used a little white lithium grease. You can't use WD-40 or other penetrating oils, since they uh, penetrate and break down the metal as well as the shielding liner. Also lube the bottom end of the cable wire and the moving parts of the area behind what's labeled at parts "3 & 4".

WOW! I can't believe I ever stopped doing this myself. The dealership never did a complete adjustment and I know that because the results from simply doing it by the book are conclusively obvious and a huge improvement!
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#3 ·
good post, ironman! so far the adjustment at the lever (every month or two) and the adjustment at the cable end (only done once so far) has sufficed, but i've only got about 16,250 miles on mine (ballpark figure), so i'm sure it'll need further adjustment at some point.

the rusks site does work, it's just that the way to get to the how to files has changed...the clutch adjustment .pdf is available from this link.

cheers!

-mistress k
 
#4 ·
thanks dean. am replying for future ref.

I dunno.....I've been lucky I guess...I've got +21K on my bike, and I've never had to adj. my clutch...at any adj. point.

still feels the same as it always has....just right to me. but then again, I have nothing to compare its 'travel/tightness/slack' to. works for me, and so far...is good enuf!

:)
 
#5 ·
mistressk said:
good post, ironman! so far the adjustment at the lever (every month or two) and the adjustment at the cable end (only done once so far) has sufficed, but i've only got about 16,250 miles on mine (ballpark figure), so i'm sure it'll need further adjustment at some point.

the rusks site does work, it's just that the way to get to the how to files has changed...the clutch adjustment .pdf is available from this link.

cheers!

-mistress k
Thanks mistressk,

I only want to augment the good work you do in staying on top of these helpful tips. I'm so happy with the complete adjustment that I recommend you try it no matter how much mileage you have. It's a huge difference. As much as you ride and care about your bike, I think you'll benefit from it as soon as you have the time.
 
#8 ·
i've stickied this thread for others to reference in future.

to be honest, i'm really happy with my clutch's performance - i can shotgun shift it (not clutchless shifting, but extremely rapid shifting - 1st through 5th gear in 5 seconds sort of thing) with no slippage or hesitation. just out of curiosity, i may do it at some point (adjusting the dual locknuts on the cable is totally familiar to me - my cb400 only has that adjustment point available, apart from the lever) just to see the results :)

cheers!

-mistress k
 
#11 ·
When I got the bike, it had excess 'catching' noise when I shifted. I tried shifting slow, fast, middle of the RPM drop. It just never felt right, but since I didn't have it from new, I just thought it was the nature of the beast. Then I did the full adjustment and not just the 2 easiest. Oh Man! What a world of difference! It's a new bike. Dealer never did it right for me either. 8)
 
#12 ·
cable lube

If you really want to feel the difference, go to the dealer and buy a cable luber and a can of cable life. this will force lube in the cables and flush out the corroision and leave a film of lube . then do your adjustments , it will feel better than new . :D Z.T.
 
#13 ·
Dean, you're the best! Read this post the other day. Today, while riding 2 up, in the rain, noticed the clutch slipping. Once I got the bike in the garage, I decided to print your post and adjust my clutch. Keep in mind the stealer replaced the entire clutch just 2 months ago. Found the 2 nuts at the top of the clutch cover not only loose, but at least a quarter inch above the bracket! Fixed that problem pronto. One question, how do you get the middle left side cover off? I took the 2 bolts out, and the cover was still very tight. It's only plastic and I didn't want to break it, so I left it alone for now.
Thanks my brother, you saved me a big problem.
Loo Two
 
#14 ·
If I remember correctly, there is a third nut/screw under the plastic side cover that your key removes. I've slept since then though. 8)
 
#18 ·
Iron Man,

I used this info to adjust my clutch. Very helpful. I discovered that the locknut around the clutch adjustment screw was completely loose. I am now hoping that the bike will no longer have that little jump when I start it in gear even with the clutch pulled in. Thanks.
 
#20 ·
paddyo said:
Iron Man,

I used this info to adjust my clutch. Very helpful. I discovered that the locknut around the clutch adjustment screw was completely loose. I am now hoping that the bike will no longer have that little jump when I start it in gear even with the clutch pulled in. Thanks.
I thought the jump was from the clutch plates sitting against metal since the oil hasn't moved around for a while.

I had the jump on my 87 Intruder, and have it on the 07 C50 if it's been more than a few hours since it was last started.
 
#22 ·
Help in fine tuning

short_fuse said:
I went through this step by step. The bike seems to be shifting much smoother now. However, the cluth doesn't start to engage until I have the clutch lever out almost all the way. What am I doing wrong?
Short_fuse,

First off, hat's off to you for working on this yourself. It is a giant step toward breaking the ice on technical adjustments on your bike. It's also a lesson in why the dealers often do a crappy job of these things...more than one step and a weak mechanic will blow it off and do something easy or nothing at all! You're proving that new to it or not, you're no weak mechanic and that you care how it comes out.

What you're experiencing is due to the combination of all 3 adjustment areas. Most likely is the actual lower adjustment that has the outer locking nut and the center slot adjustment.

1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.

2.) Set the clutch lever free play at the end of the cable housing.
Make sure that you've loosened the lock nut and screw up or down to get the 10-15mm needed at the lever end.

3.) Get that main adjustment.
a.) Make sure that the lock nut is loosened correctly.
b.) Make sure that the center adjuster is backed off correctly and then turned inward till you get resistance, then backed off 1/4 turn.
c.) Check that you've held the center adjuster with a slot screwdrive while you tighten the locking nut. I don't use blue loc-tite here, since it can be tricky to break loose with an adjuster pair like this.

Once you've check all these things, remember that you can leave the covers off while you start the bike and drive it for a moment to get the settings just right. The fact that there are 3 adjustment areas is the reason for the ease with which you can be off a little, but is also the reason you can tweak it in just right, even with a fairly worn clutch.
 
#23 ·
Dr. Clutch...calling Dr. Clutch....to the VR! STAT !!! :D

thanks for this thread Dean. I MAY have to check into my settings...my shifter seems a bit on the clunky side.
 
#24 ·
Thanks Dean. I was just pondering this myself, and viola, here it is.
 
#25 ·
Re: Help in fine tuning

IronMan said:
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. :lol: Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top