Suzuki Volusia Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

FREE - Perfect your clutch, with manual page...

98K views 135 replies 91 participants last post by  Tergazzi  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Complete clutch adjustment by the book, with scanned manual page. Below the notes, I have inserted the scanned image of the Suzuki Service Manual. Enjoy!

Yes, I've read many of the relatively recent threads on clutches, but it is seldom noted that minor adjustments just affect one of the three areas of the clutch system. There is a huge difference between a complete clutch adjustment and anything less. Most of the very helpful people like MistressK are trying to give you a bite-size quick solution, presuming that the rest of the system is within tolerances and that you know how to tell when they aren't. That's very helpful and great in certain situations, but the more of these bikes I ride, the more need I see for a real and complete adjustment.

Background Scenario:
Between a year of battling Cancer and being so busy working since then, for a long while I had relied on the clutch adjustment done by the dealer when I had my last tires installed. To quote the mechanic: "I adjusted your clutch, no charge. It sucked long, hard and deep!" I had begun to rationalize that maybe I ride too hard...It does have high mileage, [sound familiar?] I didn't like the clutch so much, but it was the ride up to the HUB in May that convinced me not to bother getting used to what they thought was a clutch adjustment.

Context:
After reading through the clutch posts of the last year or so, I see what the problem often is...partial adjustments and not using blue loc-tite OR depending on dealership mechanics who regularly look for that "short-cut".

Since I finally had the time tonight and my pain levels were lower, I did a complete adjustment exactly as specified in the Suzuki Service Manual and I now have what feels like a new clutch that's broken in again. Prior to the last year and 1/2, I had been doing it every 6 months or so, since I ride every day that it isn't pouring down rain. Letting the dealership mechanic adjust it just didn't work out, cause he didn't do the whole process.

Lever adjustment, not enough. cable housing end, not enough. Since there are 3 sections to this system, they all need to be adjusted to make sure you get that new clutch feel and real grab.

It only takes about 15 minutes and will make a world of difference in almost every case where a complete adjustment has been more than 5,000 miles past.

I'll spell it out here, since sometimes the Rusks site isn't working and besides, why not have the whole thing right here within the thread?

Here it is:
By the book, the slack at the lever should be 10-15mm, which is 0.4"- 0.6", or up to approx. 9/16" if you prefer to think of it that way. The cable end should be screwed in toward the lever as far as it will go up against the locking wheel and still let the locking wheel have enough threads to lock. This will give you enough room to make a fine-tuning for your particular feel.

At the far end of the cable wire itself; [under the center of the 3 left side covers] is where the most important adjustment is made. After loosening the outer locking nut, you use a narrow blade screwdriver & turn that screw counter-clockwise 3 turns or so. Then turn it inward slowly till you feel resistance become tangible. Back it off 1/4 turn and note that position so you can make sure it stays there. Then tighten up the locking nut again, without overtightening it.

At the bottom end of the cable shielding, where it goes into the case cover: The double nuts there are another key component. The top one locks the cable slack at the bottom end and really benefits from some blue loc-tite. That keeps it from vibrating loose and losing the adjustment.

In my case, the cable wire was also dry and I used a little white lithium grease. You can't use WD-40 or other penetrating oils, since they uh, penetrate and break down the metal as well as the shielding liner. Also lube the bottom end of the cable wire and the moving parts of the area behind what's labeled at parts "3 & 4".

WOW! I can't believe I ever stopped doing this myself. The dealership never did a complete adjustment and I know that because the results from simply doing it by the book are conclusively obvious and a huge improvement!
 

Attachments

#103 ·
Thank you ironman for a great and instructive tutorial. I did the asjustment yesterday. I was ina rush to get it done so that I could go and help my won with his car. I mistakenly assumed that one of the two nuts at the lower end of the clutch cable was the adjusting nut. Gears shifted very smoothly for the first half of the ride, but then shifting became "klunky" again. I went through your tutorail again and the tutorial in the VR store library. That's when realised my mistake. I will do it again tomorrow

I have one comment about the suggestion in the section on clutch adjustment in the VR Store library. IT was suggested that instead of measuring the clutch lever travel, one could measure the gap between the the clutch lever and the handle and set it to 4 mm.

I have learnt a lot from this forum. I am a newbie and am not as handy with fixing things as many of you here. But one thing I am good at is thr theory of measurements. There are so many aspects of measurement that one could write a thesis on it. I understand that measuring the travel in clutch lever is difficult due to geometry (shape) of the lever and that mmeasuuring the gap between the lever and the handle is easier to do.
Measuring the latter is not more, maybe even less reliable than measuring clutch lever travel.

If one uses a vernier caliper (with a precision of .01 mm) to measure a distance of 4 mm, the machine error itself is .01/4 while the error in measuring a distance of 12 mm is .o1.12. This means the error in the former technique is 3 times as large as that in the latter. Additonally, there are statiscal errors due to the fact that every time you mmeasure something, you don't always get the same number. You may get 5 different readings for the same distance if you measured 5 times. This error could be a few percent.

My opinion is that measuring clutch travel is more reliable than measuring the gap. For better precision, I would take as many as 5, or maybe even 10 measurements for the same setting and take there average to determine if the setting is within the specified range or not.
 
#105 ·
hello. newbie here and I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I did these instructions and here is the outcome. I started the bike and it really seemed to be better but then i put into gear again seemed like I was good to go until i released the lever and I didn't move. Not even a little bit. please help. thank you
 
#106 ·
Welcome to the site!
Need a little bit more info to help. What year is your bike, has it been sitting for a while, what maintenance has been done, has the issue been occuring for long? Any further info can make a big difference. Let us know whats going on, and we'll do our best to help you along!
Mac
 
Save
#108 ·
Just wanted to say thank you for this excellent tutorial. I have my clutch adjusted exactly the way I like it now (early take up). But not only that have a much better understanding of how all of the three adjustments work together.

In the process I found a few loose bits here and there so it gave me a chance to go over the bike thouroughly.

Thanks again for posting this.
 
#109 ·
Another "thank you" for this great information.

Once I figured out how to take that center cover off, it was a snap. I still have a little jump in it from a dead stop, but it's a little better. Must be time for an oil change.

Jody
 
Save
#110 ·
While you are down on the ground adjusting the clutch and all, go ahead and pull out the shifter pedal and grease its shaft a bit. I thought I'd broken the shifter rod spring while I was out once, discovered it was just the shaft sticking and the friction was greater than the little spring was designed to manage. Thing really needs a grease fitting in it.

10mm wrench and a c-ring tool, takes less than 5 minutes.
 
#111 ·
I did the three step clutch adjustment today and what a difference it made. I'm not sure the dealership in 31,000 miles ever adjusted the clutch because it was so far out. Now its like new, smoooooooth shifts.:wayhappy:

Thanks
 
#113 ·
Not intentionally meaning to grave dig an old post but I just found this today and want to add my thanks.

I have an 06 Boulevard C50 which I dumped last November. That was late at night so I parked it until the next morning. When I went to leave the next morning it would not pull. It went into gear just fine but acted like the clutch cable was too short.

I finally got someone with a trailer to get it home and put it in the shed until I got time to confront it. I had no idea where to start.

Finally this weekend - the first weekend I've had free in a few months (work has been hectic) I got a chance to take a look at it. I followed instructions on adjusting the clutch I had read elsewhere. It made things worse rather than better. (Did not include the part about 3 turns CCW). I loosened the set screw and cable and got it on the rode. It does good but not great. I plan to use the method described here my first day off work early enough to get to it.

Thanks, again.
 
#117 ·
So my clutch felt weird. I followed these instructions and it feels a lot better.
Here's my issue: my tension spring is almost fully expanded. Even when I released all 3 adjustment points the spring stayed full expanded. In all the documentation, including this rusks PDF, the tension spring is compressed.
What gives?
 
Save
#118 · (Edited)
could be the spring got stretched out of allowance and need a new one.
 
Save
#119 ·
Possible oddball question...

I have noticed that each gear I shift into going up from first, the less distance I have to pull the clutch lever for the clutch to engage. Would any of the knowledgeable people here have a thought as to how far it should feel for the clutch lever to move for engaging the clutch for going from 4th to 5th gear?

Or am I totally off my rocker and I need a new clutch (plates and springs)? I know I'm not completely imagining this phenomenon (perhaps partially doing so).

To try and explain what I'm talking about, when I'm stopped and release the clutch lever to engage 1st gear I can feel 1st gear start to pull on the bike with what feels like (the following distances examples, have not been measured, so are probably completely inaccurate, I'm only using them to try and express the distances are much different in feel between gears)... 1/2" of lever pull left before removing my fingers completely from the lever. When I am on the road and going from 4th to 5th, I only have to pull the lever about 1/8" before I feel the clutch engage for me to shift up to 5th. Each gear between 1st and 5th, the distance I feel I need to pull the clutch lever shrinks as I climb higher.

I realize some are going to say it doesn't matter, I should always pull the clutch lever fully all the time (and I do, except when I was playing around with this to figure out what what going on). The reason I bring this up is that the other day I noticed my bike was revving higher than normal in 4th and 5th gear, more pronounced in 5th, and then realized two things:

1. My clutch lever wasn't returning completely to it's stop on it's own when I released it. It was stopping with about another 1/8" left to go and I could push it the rest of the way with my knuckles. The movement felt kinda spongy when I'd push the last distance with my fingers, like the cable is binding in the tube. So I'm in the process of adjusting the clutch and lubing the clutch cable.

2. The distance I had to pull the clutch lever in for going from 4th to 5th gear was barely a tap to squeeze the lever to fully engage the clutch.

I'm trying to figure out if the decrease in clutch movement distance between gears is normal or not.
 
Save
#120 ·
have you tied a full clutch cable adjustment and lube?
 
Save
#121 · (Edited)
I'm in the process of doing that (headed to the parts store to pick up a cable lubricator this afternoon).

**EDIT**

Completed the adjustment / cable lube. 4th / 5th gear don't feel like they're slipping any more and the clutch is more responsive in grip, though the clutch level still feels pretty much the same with how far the pull is till the clutch engages / dis-engages (before I noticed the slipping that is). Guess it is the normal activity of the clutch.
 
Save
#126 ·
Kudos to you Ironman for the info. My shop manual says NOTHING about that adjustment on the clutch release module. I apparently have stuck clutch plates (my no-go C50T Argh post) but now I have one less thing to troubleshoot.

Thank you and keep it out of the ditches !

Jim
 
#127 ·
Thank you very much! I decided to adjust this before my first ride of a new-to-me bike. When I got to the adjustment screw, I carefully moved the screwdriver around four times to loosen. Then, I reversed the turning...and the screw went in about 8 or 9 full rotations! I couldn't believe it. I finally felt the resistance and wondered how things were. I backed it off and to the resistance a couple of times then followed the rest of the instructions. While I have no comparison to the before, the after is working great.

Time to do it for my first attempt ~30 minutes.
 
Save
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.