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I went through this step by step. The bike seems to be shifting much smoother now. However, the cluth doesn't start to engage until I have the clutch lever out almost all the way. What am I doing wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Help in fine tuning

short_fuse said:
I went through this step by step. The bike seems to be shifting much smoother now. However, the cluth doesn't start to engage until I have the clutch lever out almost all the way. What am I doing wrong?
Short_fuse,

First off, hat's off to you for working on this yourself. It is a giant step toward breaking the ice on technical adjustments on your bike. It's also a lesson in why the dealers often do a crappy job of these things...more than one step and a weak mechanic will blow it off and do something easy or nothing at all! You're proving that new to it or not, you're no weak mechanic and that you care how it comes out.

What you're experiencing is due to the combination of all 3 adjustment areas. Most likely is the actual lower adjustment that has the outer locking nut and the center slot adjustment.

1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.

2.) Set the clutch lever free play at the end of the cable housing.
Make sure that you've loosened the lock nut and screw up or down to get the 10-15mm needed at the lever end.

3.) Get that main adjustment.
a.) Make sure that the lock nut is loosened correctly.
b.) Make sure that the center adjuster is backed off correctly and then turned inward till you get resistance, then backed off 1/4 turn.
c.) Check that you've held the center adjuster with a slot screwdrive while you tighten the locking nut. I don't use blue loc-tite here, since it can be tricky to break loose with an adjuster pair like this.

Once you've check all these things, remember that you can leave the covers off while you start the bike and drive it for a moment to get the settings just right. The fact that there are 3 adjustment areas is the reason for the ease with which you can be off a little, but is also the reason you can tweak it in just right, even with a fairly worn clutch.
 

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Dr. Clutch...calling Dr. Clutch....to the VR! STAT !!! :D

thanks for this thread Dean. I MAY have to check into my settings...my shifter seems a bit on the clunky side.
 

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Thanks Dean. I was just pondering this myself, and viola, here it is.
 

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Re: Help in fine tuning

IronMan said:
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. :lol: Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?
 

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Re: Help in fine tuning

Basically, make it as loose as possible by screwing the adjustment all the way in because you are going to tighten it below and then finalize the feel up at the handlebar lever. 8)

harryp said:
IronMan said:
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. :lol: Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?
 

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Loo Two said:
................ Today, while riding 2 up, in the rain, noticed the clutch slipping. Once I got the bike in the garage, I decided to print your post and adjust my clutch. .....................
FYI... I DON"T KNOW IF THE SAME RULES GO FOR SUZUKI AND HD... BUT... YOU SHOULD NOT BE DONE WHEN THE BIKE IS WARM... IT MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE!!!

If done when the bike is warm it will be misadjusted and might lead to clutch slippage or failure!!!

At least thats what it says in the HD Manual... Don't know about the Suzuki...

Just a thought...

RON
 

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Went through the whole process again on Tuesday and only took it for a short test ride. Felt better. It finally stopped raining and warmed up a bit today so I went for a ride. It's like riding a completely different bike! I've only had it for a month and been riding with the dealer clutch setting. It was clunking when I shifted and when my wife was riding with me her helmet would hit the back of mine from the jerking/lurching when I shifted. No more of that. Clunking and jerking are gone. It's so smooth now that the shifts can hardly be felt. Thanks again IronMan!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Re: Help in fine tuning

harryp said:
IronMan said:
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. :lol: Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?
According to the manual, screw the upper end of the cables' housing all the way in. That would make it clockwise. You have to leave enough room at the end of those threads to allow the locking wheel to engage firmly up against the lever assembly.
 

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Re: Help in fine tuning

IronMan said:
harryp said:
IronMan said:
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. :lol: Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?
According to the manual, screw the upper end of the cables' housing all the way in. That would make it clockwise. You have to leave enough room at the end of those threads to allow the locking wheel to engage firmly up against the lever assembly.
That's what I did today and the clutch feels pretty good! Thanks for the how-to on this!
 

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slight engagement

I followed these directions but still feel like I a very slight engagement of the clutch when I am holding the clutch lever all the way in. If I start it in gear with the clutch held in, sometimes it lurches forward a little bit when the starter engages, but still starts just fine and stops about a foot or so after the lurch and starting of the engine. Is there a way to take the slight engagement out with another adjustment? This may be normal I really dont know. Thanks for your indulgment. :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Re: slight engagement

mrjoeyman said:
I followed these directions but still feel like I a very slight engagement of the clutch when I am holding the clutch lever all the way in. If I start it in gear with the clutch held in, sometimes it lurches forward a little bit when the starter engages, but still starts just fine and stops about a foot or so after the lurch and starting of the engine. Is there a way to take the slight engagement out with another adjustment? This may be normal I really dont know. Thanks for your indulgment. :shock:
The slight lurch is normal when the engine and oil are cold. The plates are just barely out of contact and the oil between them has enough viscosity to grab.

Ideally, they would separate enough to prevent this, but that isn't the way wet clutches work. Make sure you have the full slack specified in the manual to insure that the clutch plates are completely engaged when the lever is out and as disengaged as possible when it's in.

This is a good point to mention a very common clutch mistake among bikers:
Most commonly when stopped, bikers will be in first gear with the clutch in...then they will rev up. This causes wear on the plates due to the closeness mentioned above. That habit continued will wear out the plates much earlier and glaze them over like overheated brakes. The same is true of course for being in motion and then revving the engine while holding in the clutch lever. The only time you can rev up the engine like that without clutch wear is in neutral.

Sport bikers commonly age their clutch very prematurely from this habit and it's much worse for them since they do it continually on a bike that already is a high RPM model.
 

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Re: slight engagement

mrjoeyman said:
I followed these directions but still feel like I a very slight engagement of the clutch when I am holding the clutch lever all the way in. If I start it in gear with the clutch held in, sometimes it lurches forward a little bit when the starter engages, but still starts just fine and stops about a foot or so after the lurch and starting of the engine. Is there a way to take the slight engagement out with another adjustment? This may be normal I really dont know. Thanks for your indulgment. :shock:
Mine does the same thing to a small degree so I have the habit of giving the bike a little shove forward when starting up. Eliminates the grabbing although it may look a little like I am molesting the bike. :lol: But then I do love my bike. :wink:

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Good work

Good work out there, all of you that have done this, I'm proud that you are learning more about the tech details on your bike and not giving money to dealers for things that you can do yourself. I have nothing against them in general, but when you can save that money and expand your knowledge, that's a two edged sword the advances you.

Cynnr, you and the rest are very welcome! My whole point in offering these tips is to provide another option over putting the bike in the shop of course, but mainly to assist in a small way the bikers that made such a huge difference in my inspiration levels during my struggle last year. I'll never forget ya'll for it and when there are ways I can contribute to your bike, I want to offer them

On that note, remember that I inherited a full service manual from Tony G. after he sold his '01 Skunk. If there is something in it that will help you, please contact me and I'll scan it for you.

IronMan
 

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I'm just over the 100 mile mark on my new 08 C50C, and I've had issues with the bike not wanting to shift into 3rd gear (sometimes 4th). I'm still kind of new to riding so i'm not sure if i'm doing something wrong.

I'll pull in the clutch and back out of the throttle, but when i press up on the shifter, it feels like it's stuck. I can let the clutch back and and repeat and it will usually shift into gear on the 2nd try. Think the clutch may need to be adjusted? Does this both cold and warm.

The steps look pretty easy, but not sure if i should try this or just take it back to the dealer to look at it.
 
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