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Discussion Starter #1
G'day,

I know this is all a bit 'mickey mouse' but just in case someone is removing a rear tyre (cos it's flat) and doesn't have a workshop manual, I hope this helps.

The first thing you need to do is get a flat, after riding with some mates all day I managed to do that 1oklms from home.
This is me riding in the good old days when I had air in my rear tyre (last week)!
BTW the bike is filthy because I just come back last week from riding to Qld and back (from NSW) clocking up a few thousand klms.


My bike is lowered 2.5" and I won't bore you with the troubles I had getting in on a trailer to get it home and then getting the jack under it... Flat tyres suck!


Mine deflated very quickly and was unrideable in 2-3 secs as can be seen below.


The manual tell you to take off the side cover (below) don't bother it isn't necessary (trust me).


Take out the two 10mm bolts that hold the plastic drive cover (leave it loose so that you can gently bend it when the axle pops out)


And with a 8-9mm? Allen key remove this bolt


I did...



Now move to the other side and stake off the rear brake adjusting nut and separate it from the pivot joint. It is easier (not necessary) to take off the top exhaust muffler this means removing two bolts that hold the muffler to the plate and the clamp that holds it to the exhaust (Forgot to take pics - but it took 2 mins tops). You will also need to undo the brake torque link (one bolt/nut) When done it will look like this.


Now you have clear access to the axle nut, newer ones apparently have cotter pins mine did not. You will need a 22mm socket for the exhaust side and a 17mm socket/spanner for the drive side (to stop it spinning)




You can now gently knock the axle out - I put my car trolley jack under the wheel just to take the weight off the axle bolt as it slide out.


The removal job is now complete, best to take the drum brake out of the wheel once removed so it doesn't fall out when you take the wheel to the tyre shop or do the repair yourself.


This is a picture with the wheel back on - remember to torque up the rear axle nut correctly (65Nm). It's time for a cold beer. While I had the rear wheel off I also cleaned up the chrome mufflers, rear wheel and did some routine maintenance etc. To remove the wheel took about 60-90 minutes (slow first time and taking pics). Putting it back on took 30 minutes.
 

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Nice pics. The cup over the axle nut on the left side is a cap that pops out. No need to remove the fake swing arm unless they have changed the design. I lost that cap a long time ago. Please install a new cotter pin as it holds the axle nut on and keeps it tight.

Ride Safe,
Rex
 
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Thank you for posting these pix. What caused the flat? Did it tear up the tube? Did you just patch the tube or replace it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys,

I did grease the drive etc while I had the opportunity. It was a nail on the road and it tore the inner tube, tried fixing it with a tyre weld can, held up for a klm or two and then gave up big time. I replaced the tube and from no on intend to carry a spare tube in the panniers, so that when/if I get a flat and need to be towed somewhere at least I will have a tube when the wheel is whipped off. Flats are a real pain.
 

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Thanks for this how-to, Bear. I just took my wheel off to have the tire replaced, and with your instructions it only took about 10 minutes. It also helped knowing which tools I needed, because I didn't previously have everything I needed.
 

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Sorry but you are taking the long way around changing that flat.... Not to step on any toes but in the last two months not to mention last year I have had four rear wheel flats. the first one I took to dealer to replace tube and tire, last three I have fixed myself. Simple way to do it...
Jack bike up using bike jack... Check
then remove brake rod , undo brake hub brace, remove cotter pin, remove nut, remove pretty chrome cover from left side, I just tap the axle bolt out, wiggle wheel out of finnale drive and pull wheel out from under bike, place wheel on two 4X4 piece of wood, stand on tire as close to Bead as possible, break bead, use two tire irons to pry tire from wheel, remover nut from value stem pull value stem out and tube out of tire Patch hole replace in revearse<(sorry if misspelled) order.
to remove and replace all together about 45min. time.
I have not pinched the tube or messed up my rim while doing any of my own work.
I just wish I could find the Magnet that is in the wheel that keeps attracting all of the road screws and nails......
 

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Real decent pictoral/tutorial, Bear!

Looks like You could use a C90 drive on that machine. :wink:

BTW: sticky issued.
 

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this shows how to remove wheel and are damn good instructions and pics, but does not show how to remove tire :cry: . the tire has very stiff sidewalls and two pow's ( porkers on wheels) standing on it could not break the bead. we had to use a 2x4 wedged under work bench and across tire. how is this done on the road ? :?
 

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ROSCOE69 said:
this shows how to remove wheel and are damn good instructions and pics, but does not show how to remove tire :cry: . the tire has very stiff sidewalls and two pow's ( porkers on wheels) standing on it could not break the bead. we had to use a 2x4 wedged under work bench and across tire. how is this done on the road ? :?
I had a hellve time breaking the bead, finally used a 2x 4 8 ft long leveraged under the car and a additional board between the tire and the 2 x 4..that sucker just didn't want to break lose...got the new tube in, blew it up and then forgot to line up the wheel weights, so had to do over again.......
Next bike will have tubless tires
 

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Once again, this site has rendered great instructions on the maintenance of my bike! I wasn't as quick as those who did it in 10 mins, I did it in about 30 mins give or take.

Saves me a bundle in getting my tube replaced...a tube that is less than a month old. Seems I got screwed...well, I ran over a screw anyway.
 

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I'm having trouble removing the bolt on the driveshaft side. The one one that require the 9mm allen. It seems like it's stripped. Any advice on removing it and where can I get a replacement? Also, I'm putting new tires on my bike, what is the rule of thumb on replacing the tube?
 
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