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I went down that road with 2 of them already. Yeah the technology is the same. The Boulevard is easier to get apart because it is screwed together not riveted. I'm getting very frustrated with this thing. I talked to my V-Twin mechanic today and he has never had anyone come with a failed STVA.
 
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I've considered overlooking it but I don't want to keep looking at the flashing FI light.

Anyone else have an opinion on this? If I were to leave the STVA off is there a way to fool the ECM into thinking it is still there?
 
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If any of you guys are still there I just finished some thorough testing of all the sensors and there circuits. One thing I found in common is none of them are getting the required volts (4.5 - 5.5). Continuity all checks out in the sensors and the wiring, there are no shorts to ground in the harness or sensors. That said, I am quite convinced now that I have two bad ECM's. I just called the dealer and they told me there is no way to check out the ECM. Is that a fact? I find that hard to accept. I mean, c'mon, it's a circuit board. Any input?
 

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If any of you guys are still there I just finished some thorough testing of all the sensors and there circuits. One thing I found in common is none of them are getting the required volts (4.5 - 5.5). Continuity all checks out in the sensors and the wiring, there are no shorts to ground in the harness or sensors. That said, I am quite convinced now that I have two bad ECM's. I just called the dealer and they told me there is no way to check out the ECM. Is that a fact? I find that hard to accept. I mean, c'mon, it's a circuit board. Any input?
What voltage are you getting?

try unplugging the ecm and plugging it in again to establish a better connection..

The manual calls the ecm 'bad' when all the other tests are "GOOD" <<shrug>>:boozin::electrocute:
 
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Anywhere from .03 to .09. These have been disconnected and reconnected more times that I can remember. I have cleaned ALL connectors with electrical contact cleaner and inspected them carefully. I just have a hard time believing I have 2 faulty ECM's, although it is possible.
 
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Unfortunately not. I just can't believe the dealer doesn't have a way to test it. I keep hoping something will click that I might've overlooked. But, I have been working at this so intensely. I want to get it fixed before my driveshaft gets back from Aric.
 

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28,859 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
My Suzuki Service manual shows another diagnostic tool.

09904-41010 SDS Set
99565-01010-004: CD-ROM Ver.4

The lousy picture they give me looks like an adapter that plugs into the connector for the Mode Select Switch (where you send the code to the speedo display).

It shows this adapter connected to a lap top and a couple of screen snapshots of what you'd see on the computer screen.

My trouble shooting chart for C28 states ...

Detected Condition
The operation voltage does not reach the STVA
ECM does not receive communication signal from the STVA
Possible Cause
STVA malfunction, STVA circuit open or short, STVA motor malfunction
Turn ignition on, does the STVA operate ?

No? Loose or poor contacts on the STVA coupler or Open or short circuit in the (P/W or black) and (B/Lg or Green) wires.

Next step check for STVA continuity: ..ohms (infinity)

If ok, then measure the STVA resistance. (between Black wire terminal and Pink wire terminal) and (between Green wire terminal and W/B wire terminal)

STVA resistance: Approx 6.5 ohms (Black-Pink) (Green-W/B)

Is resistance OK? If yes.....
B/Lg, P/W, Green and Black wire open or shorted to ground, or poor connection.

If wire and connection are OK, intermittent trouble or faulty ECM.

Check connections for open circuit or poor connection.

Replace ECM with known good one.

If no...
Loose or poor contacts on the ECM coupler.
Replace the STVA with a new one.

Hope this helps, if I get a chance I'm gonna run this by an independent shop owner I know, best Suzuki mechanic I've met.
 
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Thanks Viper
I wasn't aware of the tool but the rest of your post is very familiar to me. I am now once again working with a food STVA. Resistance in that and the other components are all within specs as well as continuity. I've found no shorts or open circuits. This is why I'm almost convinced the ECM is to blame. One thing I thought of I didn't check is what the volts are going into the ECM. There is power getting to it but insufficient voltage coming out to any of the sensors. This is one of those electrical nightmares.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
This is one of those electrical nightmares.
They will absolutely blow your mind, I hate electrical.

I installed a simple plug and play trailer harness to my Harley yesterday and when I hooked the trailer up the lights didn't work, I just about destroyed the garage I was so pissed. Turned out to be a bad ground connection on the trailer.

I believe you said you do have two ECM's, how do the voltages change between the two of them?
 
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You are right! And what we all too often discover is that we've been concentrating on the not so obvious that we overlook the obvious. You are all so eager to help and I feel that I've acquired a whole new group of friends. Or family?
Anyway, it causes me excruciating pain and embarrassment to tell you my kill switch was...I can't say it. &#55357;&#56871;
 

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You are right! And what we all too often discover is that we've been concentrating on the not so obvious that we overlook the obvious. You are all so eager to help and I feel that I've acquired a whole new group of friends. Or family?
Anyway, it causes me excruciating pain and embarrassment to tell you my kill switch was...I can't say it. &#55357;&#56871;
I've read and reread your posts through this thread and cannot understand your recent comment regarding the Kill switch? What has or does the Kill Switch have to do with the TB? and cold idle issue?
 
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Only that there will be no current supplied to anything. Which explains why I was getting no voltage readings after replacing the ECM. Now I do have correct voltage to everything, including the STVA which now at least moves...albeit not correctly,it at least moves. That's more than it did initially. There is the relationship with my initial problem...no fast idle. Now at least I have voltage readings. Kill switch off...no current, on...power. Did that clear things up?
 

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Only that there will be no current supplied to anything. Which explains why I was getting no voltage readings after replacing the ECM. Now I do have correct voltage to everything, including the STVA which now at least moves...albeit not correctly,it at least moves. That's more than it did initially. There is the relationship with my initial problem...no fast idle. Now at least I have voltage readings. Kill switch off...no current, on...power. Did that clear things up?
yes. I was associating your embarrassment of the Kill Switch for the possible fix of the "no fast idle". thanks,

rv
 
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